mattski

Model Kits

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I should add that I'm wearing rubber gloves and eye protection, and working in the sink, to contain any spills should any occur. This stuff is not to be taken lightly. Lots of ventilation too!

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Man I don't know what's going on with the chrome on this kit. The 2nd wheel also took about 36 hours to strip. So I decided to just dunk every chrome sprue into a bath of caustic. Sod doing each piece as and when, it would take months! Well, one large plastic tub, 3 full sprues of parts.... and one sprue just clears of chrome almost instantly. The other two have been soaking for hours and are barely touched so far. I guess these two have the 36 hour special....

40322412262_f9eb81ebe3_o.jpg

Lav6 test by dik_dolan, on Flickr

Edited by Dik Dolan

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Haha man thank you for the laugh! I needed that... this kit is pissing me off and I haven't even started it properly yet=)

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I haven't tried that, but I think the effect would be minimal really. It's just down to the plating being so damn thick that it takes ages for the caustic or bleach to dissolve it all. I just checked on the sprues that are currently having a soak and once again one side is completely clear, but the other (thicker?) side is only maybe 40% clear.

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16 hours ago, Dik Dolan said:

I haven't tried that, but I think the effect would be minimal really. It's just down to the plating being so damn thick that it takes ages for the caustic or bleach to dissolve it all. I just checked on the sprues that are currently having a soak and once again one side is completely clear, but the other (thicker?) side is only maybe 40% clear.

Sorry to hear about the chrome throuble Dik.

I've done a bit of electroplating in my time, including chrome on plastic.  It can easily build up on the side closest to the anode if you inhale too much vapour and pass-out.

I bet it's actually a 1/100th kit under all that chromium.

I have some good news as my latest painting/gift is nearly finished. I've had to cut some corners just to get it done but it is nearly ready thankfully, as I only have until the weekend to finish it.  I'm finding this paint really difficult to work with as the drying time is literally a few seconds.  If you don't move the brush from the paint to the glass quick enough, the paint will dry on the brush. There is literally no working time with the paint which limits what can be done. (as you can see, I'm getting my excuses in early doors). :D

orang2.thumb.jpg.094be69f6d5ceb2eab38ad88ab253eb1.jpg

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That is wonderful Ross! Well done mate, I'm sure your mom is going to love it=)

My bits are still bathing, maybe 90-95% done now so hopefully will be clear sometime later today and I can actually start on the kit.

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Thanks for the rep guys and hope those last bits are finished now Dik.

Looking forward to seeing what finish you use in place of the chrome. :)

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37 minutes ago, rv295 said:

Looking forward to seeing what finish you use in place of the chrome. :)

Me too=)

There are still a few spots left on one of the sprues, so that will be left overnight to finish off.

My plan is to use Alclad polished aluminium, chrome and maybe steel on some of the bits. Tamiya gunmetal and others for the rest. I do have a Molotow chrome pen refill that's supposed to be a good "chrome" paint too, but I've not tried that yet.... maybe on a few bits here is a good time.

I've test fitted a couple of the parts now- a wheel, brake drum, part of a front fork and front mudguard. So far they look a bit rough. Lots of poor mould marks and a distinct lack of mounting alignment tabs (compared to say a Tamiya kit). For example to make one of the front fork lower sections, you join two halves together.... but there are no locating pins at all. just butt both halves together and eyeball it to make sure they are on straight and true. The part numbers for the forks in the instructions didn't match the sprue numbers either, so that might get interesting. They are also pretty rough and will need a lot of sanding and filling and sanding I think. I'll know more tomorrow when I finally get to glue some of it up!

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5 hours ago, Dik Dolan said:

Me too=)

There are still a few spots left on one of the sprues, so that will be left overnight to finish off.

My plan is to use Alclad polished aluminium, chrome and maybe steel on some of the bits. Tamiya gunmetal and others for the rest. I do have a Molotow chrome pen refill that's supposed to be a good "chrome" paint too, but I've not tried that yet.... maybe on a few bits here is a good time.

I've test fitted a couple of the parts now- a wheel, brake drum, part of a front fork and front mudguard. So far they look a bit rough. Lots of poor mould marks and a distinct lack of mounting alignment tabs (compared to say a Tamiya kit). For example to make one of the front fork lower sections, you join two halves together.... but there are no locating pins at all. just butt both halves together and eyeball it to make sure they are on straight and true. The part numbers for the forks in the instructions didn't match the sprue numbers either, so that might get interesting. They are also pretty rough and will need a lot of sanding and filling and sanding I think. I'll know more tomorrow when I finally get to glue some of it up!

That sounds like it will make a much more realistic looking model compared to leaving all those parts chrome.  It also sounds like you've picked a tricky kit but the greater the challenge - the greater the reward when it's done.

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I suppose this counts as "The start"

26548665518_ec9de0b2db_o.jpg

Lav7 by dik_dolan, on Flickr

A few bits are now glued, and the sprue goo filler applied in a few spots. Even some provisional sanding has occurred. No paint yet.... that might be a while. The bits inside the wheels, hubs, brakes etc are just being test fitted.

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Lav9 by dik_dolan, on Flickr

This is my first try at making and using "sprue goo" as a filler, as used and recommended by the chaps on the ISM live shows and many forums. Take an old, maybe 3/4 used jar of Tamiya Extra Thin (TET) glue and drop a load of cut up pieces of old plastic sprue in. stir and leave to turn into goo (a few hours, maybe overnight). Add more sprue or glue to achieve the desired thickness, and just brush or dab onto the bits that need filling. So far so easy. It's been applied to the front mudguard brackets, and a couple of spots on the wheels and forks so far. Once it's dried I'll find out how much it shrinks and how easy it is to sand. Hopefully easier to use than the old almost dried up tube of squadron filler I have.

Edited by Dik Dolan

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