newlash09

Any idea for fitting wheels to speakers

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Hi all 

Good evening :)

Iam getting some new speakers made for me , which will be custom transmission lines with huge internal cabinet volume. The end box is expected to weigh around 100 kgs each, and will probably be close to 6 ft in height. 

With my small build, there is absolutely no way I could ever get them moving anywhere. So was wondering if it is feasible to fix some wheels at the bottom,  instead of spikes. So that with some effort I could get them moving when required for positioning adjustments. 

Will there be any demerits in this approach, as the speakers will be on a one inch thick carpet. Has anyone seen or done similar. Thanks to kindly let me know :)

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It's not unknown for large speakers to be on wheels, particularly in studios. I'm a bit doubtful how effective wheels would be on a thick carpet though, particularly with 100 kg pushing down on then.

My gut feeling is that the easiest way to be able to move them about would be to not use spikes and keep the bottom of the speakers smooth so that then can be slid over the carpet.

Now give us some more details of these huge new speakers :). I'm sure you've piqued everyone's interest!

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Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, MartinC said:

It's not unknown for large speakers to be on wheels, particularly in studios. I'm a bit doubtful how effective wheels would be on a thick carpet though, particularly with 100 kg pushing down on then.

My gut feeling is that the easiest way to be able to move them about would be to not use spikes and keep the bottom of the speakers smooth so that then can be slid over the carpet.

Now give us some more details of these huge new speakers :). I'm sure you've piqued everyone's interest!

Thanks for your quick reply MartinC :)

 These are similar look alike boxes to the wilson yvettes.  But will be taller.  My friend is using similar wilson design to time align the mid range driver with the tweeter. 

To be honest, I don't know much about drivers and cross overs. But here is the list of what is being  used for the build :

Tweeter - Beyma TPH-150

Mid range - Satori MR16P-8

Bass - Seas prestige A26RE4 _H1411-08

Cabinet size - 172 x 50 cms

Tranmission line design

Crossover will be 1st order crossover. With external binding posts also present to bypass the crossover for active triamping. 

This gentleman building these speakers has also been building customs speakers for the last 20 years. And folks who've heard his designs have been full of praise. So thought I'd just give it a shot. 

The design is specifically to accommodate near wall placement. I just hope it sounds nice in end. I will be spending 2 days in this friends house nearer to the completion stage, where he is going to voice the crossover to my liking and taste. 

That's all I know for now :D

Edited by newlash09
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Super Wammer

I have castors under my Quads and my large subs so they can be pushed back against the wall when not in use. (I know! I leave them out, but Mrs H pushes them away almost every day). The castors fit the threaded holes in the speakers' bases, so no modifications were needed. However, we have tiled floors - I'm pretty sure they wouldn't work with carpets.

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Super Wammer
Posted (edited)

Funny you mention Wilson Audio speakers @newlash09 because when I read your OP I recalled seeing a smaller WA speaker - the Sasha, I think - wheeled into place at a hotel demonstration. 

With that much weight, as long as you had strong castor designs they should be moveable.  In studios, I’ve seen a rectangular wooden framework on castors for just such a job. 

Does their creator not have a suggestion?  It may, as Martin says, be possible to slide a polished cabinet of even this huge weight on a carpet, depending on how dense the pile is. 

Edited by Nopiano
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Super Wammer
Posted (edited)

ce5640e1937d301a7d6236f2abf819e3.jpgMy speakers are likewise around 100kg each. 

I designed stainless steel outrigger style arms 10mm thick which are bolted to the bases of my cabinets-

i made M10 threaded holes in the ends, and fitted large casters which have an M10 threaded column at the top. This enabled me to move them around while I was building, and later, positioning them.

i also designed large spikes with M10 threads, locking collars etc, so that when the speakers were finished and in position, they could be tilted back and have the casters replaced with the spikes. It all worked very well.

You can see details of my build on Pinterest.

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/TheTrike/pride-joy-my-diy-atc-loudspeaker-project-pa65-atc-/

Edited by vintageaxeman
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You don’t make things easy for yourself do you! Exciting sounding speaker build though 👍🏻

I would have thought that the longer the pile on the carpet the larger the diameter of the castors you would need. With your shag pile you may need 4” diameter wheels , which could look strange.

The other option I can think of is Teflon coated ‘pucks’, often used to slide heavy furniture. You may have to consider permanent or detachable handles on the speakers mounted below the centre of gravity to give you grip and purchase to move these monsters. With their height the risk of toppling is increased, I like the idea of the outriggers seen above to extend the footprint 

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My speakers weigh a little more and have furniture sliders underneath, ( they are like a chrome nail with a 30mm pan head ) they slide easily on carpet.

A small folding sack barrow (well padded so not to scratch) is good for distances.

I use the bayma drivers, both the tpl & h, they easily bettered my vitavox horns with a very clean sound.

It took some luck to find a midrange driver that both matched in performance and retained their efficiency. 

I guess your choice of drivers will give a super clean and fast top end,  I'm sure you will be very pleased with them

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11 hours ago, vintageaxeman said:

ce5640e1937d301a7d6236f2abf819e3.jpgMy speakers are likewise around 100kg each. 

I designed stainless steel outrigger style arms 10mm thick which are bolted to the bases of my cabinets-

i made M10 threaded holes in the ends, and fitted large casters which have an M10 threaded column at the top. This enabled me to move them around while I was building, and later, positioning them.

i also designed large spikes with M10 threads, locking collars etc, so that when the speakers were finished and in position, they could be tilted back and have the casters replaced with the spikes. It all worked very well.

You can see details of my build on Pinterest.

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/TheTrike/pride-joy-my-diy-atc-loudspeaker-project-pa65-atc-/

Thanks vintageaxeman...That is a brilliant idea indeed. Thanks for sharing. I could experiment with positioning with the castors on, and then once finalised I could replace the castors with spikes. Brilliant :D

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5 hours ago, steve 57 said:

My speakers weigh a little more and have furniture sliders underneath, ( they are like a chrome nail with a 30mm pan head ) they slide easily on carpet.

A small folding sack barrow (well padded so not to scratch) is good for distances.

I use the bayma drivers, both the tpl & h, they easily bettered my vitavox horns with a very clean sound.

It took some luck to find a midrange driver that both matched in performance and retained their efficiency. 

I guess your choice of drivers will give a super clean and fast top end,  I'm sure you will be very pleased with them

Thanks for your kind words of encouragement steve57.

The driver selection was completely my friends. We started with RAAL ribbons, and the cost was very high including customs. So he selected the beyma and other drivers. My main search in these speakers was a smooth treble with great mid range for vocals. As I found those 2 lacking in my present speakers. Fondly hoping these speakers deliver. 

I was originally insisting on 2 bass drivers atleast 10 inches each in a TL design. But my friend is not agreeing. He feels it will overload my 15x14 ft room completely. So I asked him to make a big cabinet with enough room to fit a second bass driver if required in the future. Hence the size of the speaker :D

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10 hours ago, lostwin said:

You don’t make things easy for yourself do you! Exciting sounding speaker build though 👍🏻

I would have thought that the longer the pile on the carpet the larger the diameter of the castors you would need. With your shag pile you may need 4” diameter wheels , which could look strange.

The other option I can think of is Teflon coated ‘pucks’, often used to slide heavy furniture. You may have to consider permanent or detachable handles on the speakers mounted below the centre of gravity to give you grip and purchase to move these monsters. With their height the risk of toppling is increased, I like the idea of the outriggers seen above to extend the footprint 

Haha...thanks Lostwin :)

Even my friend is suggesting using pucks to slide them, as he feels wheels will spoil the aesthetics. But as @vintageaxemanhas suggested, I loved his idea. Have conveyed that to my friend, as the speakers are built 600 kms away from my place. So will be easier to transport them to my place, and finally into my room too.

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18 hours ago, Nopiano said:

Funny you mention Wilson Audio speakers @newlash09 because when I read your OP I recalled seeing a smaller WA speaker - the Sasha, I think - wheeled into place at a hotel demonstration. 

With that much weight, as long as you had strong castor designs they should be moveable.  In studios, I’ve seen a rectangular wooden framework on castors for just such a job. 

Does their creator not have a suggestion?  It may, as Martin says, be possible to slide a polished cabinet of even this huge weight on a carpet, depending on how dense the pile is. 

Thanks Nopiano  :)

The builder friend of mine is a stickler for looks it seems and sonics too. I have just passed vintageaxeman's suggestion. It is perfectly doable. So waiting for my friend to get back to me now :)

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Super Wammer

My Obelisks have castors and sound just fine, they are part of the original design though and so might have been "factored in" at design stage.

Also not 100kg! 

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Super Wammer
Posted (edited)

I have a feeling my casters are 75mm- 80mm  diameter, (they’ve been packed away for a year or so now and I can’t remember exactly where they are,) but they are really heavy duty, and they were something like £14 per set of 4 on eBay. I even made two huge wooden ramps so that when the cabs needed to be taken in or out of the house during the making process, I could get them over the threshold and the 9” step of our UPVC french windows. (Since I retired, I don’t have a workshop, so everything is done outside under a cheap gazebo.)

My project was really a cabinet build, using the parts from a pair of donor ATC PA65s, which are ATC’s high performance wedge shaped disco style speakers. They have exactly the same drive units...yes, exactly!...as the SCM150ASL, including the 15” SL bass, the famous midrange unit, a special ATC built tweeter and the triamp unit on the back. I found a guy selling a number of pairs which he, as a professional sound engineer, had been tasked with removing and disposing of from a top London nightclub which had gone bust.

Before I made the outrigger bars, I would just screw the casters straight into the inserts in the base of the cabinets, as these also have an M10 hole in them. Everything was very heavily engineered, due to the anticipated weight of the cabs. They are actually much heavier than ATC’s own, as I took design hints from the special versions that were modified by ATC for David Gilmour’s studio, but I also threw everything else that I myself had learned over the decades about speaker building into it. 

You can see the casters in these pics...and the taps and the Trefolex cutting compound and one caster on the floor.

82e17397325aa018b238061aa7f1aa9d.png84fe56ba947c93f5f02ea830210b1315.jpg

Edited by vintageaxeman
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Super Wammer

Easiest way of all to move heavy speakers on a thick carpet is remove any spikes and slip under them a thickish sheet of polished low density plastic sheet (slightly flexible/bendy is good) which you can attach role handles too.  Use the sheets as a 'sledge' to slide them over the carpet 

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