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Scalford 2016 - any last minute repairs/mods/fettling/panic ????

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For gods sake, don't exceed 88mph on the way to the show, otherwise we'll be remembering your system from last year this year!

:oj:

use the M1 and you'll never get above 50mph average :doh:

:^

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Well, the active crossover PCBs and resistors arrived this morning, so I might yet be able to get rid of the preamp....

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Earlier today I glued the main panels for my Goodmans Axiom 201 Onken's together, I am also a couple of hours from completing the Dartzeel clone, the cap multiplier and amp boards are all tested and working, it just needs installing and wiring up. The Lenco re-plinth is nearly done, I just need to re-lubricate the motor and bearing, and drill and paint the arm-board. I will upload some pictures tomorrow.

Jobs I am yet to start are build my new Audiomods arm kit (I do have an older one to use as a fallback) and give the tape decks a fettle.

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I have been working on this SUT it sounding really good now that I have manage to banish the hum with kitchen foil, but I am not sure about it presentation? (It's very good at keeping the aliens away) :dunno:

f7d9abba-1b13-47cc-93f8-f57a5209daac_zps2i2uijxh.jpg

I love it.

A little disappointed that there is only one croc clip, but there's thime to improve on that.

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These are the main components I have to complete, although this will be a second amplifier and pair of speakers. I expect to have them completed in time.

[ATTACH]13689[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]13690[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]13691[/ATTACH]

DSC_0019.jpg.2fc2ab0449d7bf51e065c59ab57

DSC_0021.jpg.a8403a51afec17428f797f28ad6

DSC_0018.thumb.jpg.c0d33beccbe8201fd222e

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Design and build of fatmarley 3-way speakers is still an act in progress. Matt's working on the tweeter crossover at the moment.

But I'm calm, cool and collected.

.... :nerves::upgrade:

The latest iteration sounded damn fine when he brought them 'round the other day, so job should be a good'un. :testy1:

.

Completely revised the crossover and they are sounding much better. Will be interesting to hear what people think after Scalford...

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I have been working on this SUT it sounding really good now that I have manage to banish the hum with kitchen foil, but I am not sure about it presentation? (It's very good at keeping the aliens away) :dunno:

f7d9abba-1b13-47cc-93f8-f57a5209daac_zps2i2uijxh.jpg

Danger Danger Will Robinson!

Untitled-1.jpg

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Colin and I have decided to change the tweeter in the Activated NS10M Yamaha's we are showing in room 232 this year, This has required a new front plate to be CAD drawn and 3D printed to enable fitting into existing cabinet cut outs.

2a80c3a1133b6c950452b5fe091d2b99.jpg

These will take the well documented 'sting' out of the top end of the NS's, and in the interests of changing as many things as we can at one time (come on, we've all done it) we have created a time alignment spacer (in fact Arnot has, to be strictly accurate) shown here

6d998c199cbb85b04ecace3c9c5e69d1.jpg

Soon have that legendary Yamaha near field bridge monitor fixed 🤔

Cheers. Gary.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Colin and I have decided to change the tweeter in the Activated NS10M Yamaha's we are showing in room 232 this year, This has required a new front plate to be CAD drawn and 3D printed to enable fitting into existing cabinet cut outs.

2a80c3a1133b6c950452b5fe091d2b99.jpg

These will take the well documented 'sting' out of the top end of the NS's, and in the interests of changing as many things as we can at one time (come on, we've all done it) we have created a time alignment spacer (in fact Arnot has, to be strictly accurate) shown here

6d998c199cbb85b04ecace3c9c5e69d1.jpg

Soon have that legendary Yamaha near field bridge monitor fixed 樂

Cheers. Gary.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And not a moment too soon!

Looking forward to hearing the results. Lawrence (bi-amp2) has done a similar thing with his DIY actives we'll have in Syndicate room 3

;-)

S

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Update to Chevron-Salient Active NS10M project

Checking to see of new tweeter front plate fits speaker cabinet cutout

572a20f224ef7c52678c266ea0c4e3cf.jpg

Seems ok, need to get new longer length M3 bolts to mount tweeter motor into new fronts, but proto-type 3D printed new front plates seem to fit 😝

No idea how this happened.

Listened for the first time today to the new Quad Sabre DAC Update on my Chevron Pioneer, sounding great, bigger soundstage, fuller and better articulated low end, greater texture and insight into percussion and cymbal work on live Riverside Village Vanguard Bill Evans Trio recording. Listening to these player mods today via Colin's own lucid and revealing Active Apogees'.

New NS10 active crossovers boards will now be installed into the NS1000 x-over-Hypex amp boxes that were used at last years Scalford. Should be able to wire up re-tweetered NS10's and measure performance next week. Fingers crossed.

688723f7d2f33d02374503dfc40f9fde.jpg

Exciting stuff.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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JBL L40 need sorting tweeters have been repaired.

JBL%20L40%20Speaker%2001.jpg

Still waiting for the surrounds for the bass units.

I need to rebuild my Thorens TD160 Super as it is in bits!

I'm in two minds as to leave it as standard or modify it, still looking for a rega armboard and VTA collar.

Sharif.

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JBL L40 need sorting tweeters have been repaired.

JBL%20L40%20Speaker%2001.jpg

Still waiting for the surrounds for the bass units.

I need to rebuild my Thorens TD160 Super as it is in bits!

I'm in two minds as to leave it as standard or modify it, still looking for a rega armboard and VTA collar.

Sharif.

These aren't as bad as the pair I restored a few months ago.

A dodge you might like to try when re foaming the bass drivers that I used instead of removing the dustcap and shimming was:

Clean the edge of the back of the cone thoroughly, removing all vestiges of previous foam - then glue surround to the back of the cone, allow to dry.

Then position the outer edge of the foam with eight clothes pegs holding it in position on the frame, and use the pegs to adjust centrality until the voice coil is centred in the magnetic gap. You can get an idea of this by tapping the cone - if you get a rattle, adjust position with clothespegs - and by pushing gently down on the cone edge, seeing if you have rubbing in the voice coil gap. Eventually you'll be pretty sure its centred. What you're doing is a sort of dummy gluing using the clothespegs.

Then go round removing a peg at a time and slipping glue under between foam and basket, then pegging again. Check pegs haven't slipped during gluing by doing the rattle checks as you go.

I found Aleens Tacky glue better than what they often send with the foams, but the glue Fred Buist (Audiofriends) supplies is better still.

On my pair one bass unit was easy peasy and pretty well central as it came, the other really needed the above process.

Best of luck, hope the foams arrive in time and hopefully hear them at Scalford.

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Well, after getting rabski to re-write my system details for the brochure (and indeed buying a Quad 405 clone amp) - it would seem the TA-N80ES is back home and I am listening to it at the moment after doing the BIAS/offset adjustments.

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Well, after getting rabski to re-write my system details for the brochure (and indeed buying a Quad 405 clone amp) - it would seem the TA-N80ES is back home and I am listening to it at the moment after doing the BIAS/offset adjustments.

Oh good...I am keen to hear your TA-N80S...glad its back in commission. Looking forward to hearing it and your other covetables!

I've been building a sub to match one I already have, on Hermit's suggestion, deciding these two (now) will sound rather better than Ikea tables as speaker stands. Subs use a Mission plate amp and JBL 2226H 15" drivers...98 db efficient, low distortion and 600w handling.

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