The site will be out of service again for further upgrades regarding security fixes. Work will be carried out between 4.30am and 5.30am tomorrow morning. We apologise for the inconvenience.

Faig

Luxkit ---Luxman

Recommended Posts

To those who contacted me, emails have been sent with attachments.

To assist me with my individual responses please let me know, by pm or email, if you have successfully received the attachments.

Perhaps we have an opportunity to interest the MP3 youth about REAL hi-fi?

Stephen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys

First time Wammer here, but I've lurked for a few years.

This thread encouraged me to contribute.  I too am a converted (LUXKIT) AVANCE Z501 owner.  This amp sounds a treat and REALLY gave my NELSON PASS designed J2 a run for its money on my very efficient KLIPSCH speakers.

I'd like to hear from any other owners with the AVANCE Z501 model.

Here's some pics of mine...

LUXMAN Avance Z501 Power Amp Mode.jpeg

LUXMAN LUXKIT Avance Z501 Control Panel JPG Adapters 1.JPG

LUXMAN Avance Z501 Frontal Shot.JPG

LUXMAN LUXKIT Avance Z501 Control Panel JPG Adapters 3.JPG

  • Upvote 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Luxkit love...I have two Z501's, and a Z504. I generally use them with passive pres, a Khozmo on the 501s and a homebuilt silver TVC on the big Z504. They are excellent and underrated amps. But all too rare...or they'd be better known.

If you haven't tried yours with a passive, I can recommend it.

I did try a pre once, a Z502, but didn't think it in the same league as the power amps

Would love to try some of the other kit they made - valve amps for instance - but I've only ever seen the Avance assembled Z series in the UK. I'm guessing most of the other stuff stayed in Japan. Hi FI Do generally have a slew of nice stuff, but Japanese voltages.

Warm welcome to a new Luxkit fan!

Edited by ff1d1l

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the warm welcome FF1D1L.

Yeah, I'm a tube guy too... But I am totally stunned at how much the Z501 delivers, without tubes.

My Z501 clicks-in nicely with my Tubed Preamp and the 'Level' Gain Dials on the Z501 do a great job of dialing-in the right amount of Gain.

Actually, I've found that varying the Gain Dials can also serve as a 'sonic seasoner' with varying results available from various settings - whist the preamp Gain settings (12dB) remain constant.  It's just ideal for dialing in the right sound for different speakers, rooms, etc.

Have you tried this technique with an active preamp on your Z501?

Edited by SONDEKNZ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I run the Z501's wide open - up full - generally, and the z504 has had them bypassed. But I'll give it a whirl.

I'd be inclined to think bypassing on a z501 might be worth a go, too.

And if I did it on one I could compare.

I do find having gone passive that carbon pots, even quite good ones, Alps etc, loose some treble purity in my system.  At the moment I couldn't see myself going back to an active pre - but hey, never say never!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, the tops are my thang too.

This is what stuns me about the Z501.

Until recently, I was using a FIRST WATT J2 Power Amp and the Z501 really gave the J2 a run for its money.  To add fuel to that fire, I checked with FIRST WATT Global Dealer RENO HI-FI and discovered from 'Honest Injun' Mark that the J2 has superior tops to ANY other FIRST WATT amp that Nelson has conjured... So high praise for the Z501 huh?

I went passive for a while with a DJANGO - with Stevens-Billington trannies - but my highly modified tubed preamp eventually won the day with better tops, meatier mids and overall better dynamics.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello all, I've just acquired an Avance built Z504 over on AoS (Johnjo). It's a fantastic amp, no doubt. Nial here had recommended a Luxkit to me on a thread there ages ago, so thanks Nial! Was wondering if any of you have any info on converting it to class A. I see from the schematic online some of the secondary windings need swapped on the transformer and I assume bias will need adjusted. Is there anything else involved? Would appreciate any further info you folks might have. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Recently acquired a Luxman L-509X, very pleased with it, never heard anything so lucid.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎19‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 23:27, Roy_S said:

Recently acquired a Luxman L-509X, very pleased with it, never heard anything so lucid.

is that the £7k model?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎19‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 23:27, Roy_S said:

Recently acquired a Luxman L-509X, very pleased with it, never heard anything so lucid.

Heard that at Audio T in Brentwood and to say it sounded good would be a very small understatement indeed, also looked amazing too.:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I move to less sensitive speakers again it's the one I'd want to own. The L-590AX II and L-509X dispel the myth that a separate pre/power combo always sounds better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

LUXKIT Z501 and Z504 amps:

Regarding the Z501 - I have two of them and had them for many years, one bought new in 1982 and the other got second hand (needing repair) some years later. I've totally rebuilt the second one and is in service now. They are excellent amplifiers either in class A or AB though I would advise all owners to be careful when changing classes, even though it says in the manual it is safe to switch whilst the amp is switched on I would advise against it! The number of Z501's I have seen or heard about when doing this and have burnt out one channel (always the left one) leads me to believe that it's a risky thing to do. Best to power down prior to switching operational modes. 

Regarding the Z504 behemoth, again I have two of these which I have completely rebuilt and use them in BTL (bridged mono) modes which gives well over 600w per channel (class AB)! 240+ watts in class A (60w pure class A). They are used in my main system and are the best amps I've heard - since the rebuilds the dynamics/bass and speed have to be heard to be believed. I wouldn't sell them for any price.

In answer to johncu's query about changing over to class A, you only need to swap over the pairs of secondary wires on the tranny (from higher voltage to the lower voltage/higher current taps and of course re-adjust (increase) the Bias. So swap the Red wire for the Brown wire and the Orange wire for the Yellow wire Tranny secondaries. In class AB the Bias current should be 150mA and in class A 1.94A. If you are unsure how (where) to adjust Bias, remove the jumpers from terminals TP7 (+) and TP8 (-) = L-CH, also TP11 (+) and TP10 (-) = R-CH and insert a DC ammeter,  I use one for each channel at the same time (to save time) then switch on and adjust the (DC) current accordingly via VR301 (L-CH) and VR403 (R-CH). After 15-30mins check and fine tune as necessary, Done. To save some time and inconvenience if you want to change operation modes more than once it may be a good idea to make (tight fitting) removable jumpers using small gauge spade terminals? Be aware the the amp runs hot in class A so good ventilation is important. Whilst (after) changing the Bias currents either way it's also a good idea to check the DC offsets by placing a DC voltmeter (lowest range) on  the + and - output  binding posts and if necessary adjust the pots VR101 (Left) and VR201 (Right) on the rear PCB for lowest voltages. Both mine are +/- 2mV since the rebuilds but anything 50mV or under is acceptable.

Hope this helps, Alv.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alv, thanks a lot for the reply, that's exactly what I was after. Believe it or not I was converting mine to class A last night when you were typing, just took a punt on how to do it. Unfortunately I didn't see your info until this evening but seems I followed the exact method you specified but only had one DMM with DC current capability so had to do it one channel at a time. I just screwed the bias right down to zero on the other channel until I got the first one done. DC offset set up with my other DMM at the same time. I set the bias to 1.4 amps as was recommended to me and it's certainly hot enough that's for sure!

The sound has thickened tonally in class A and the soundstage has deepened. Detail and nuances are more obvious yet very natural at the same time. Only down side is a slight loss of Joie de Vivre, the music has become ever so slightly leaden, less bouncy and free. I'm not sure if this is just because of the juicier, fuller tonal balance or possibly less bass control. I'm using 15" Tannoy HPDs which are a big driver to control and I think the extra voltage in class AB suits them.

Its very early days though so I'll live with it for a while and see how I get on. I may well change back to class AB and try increasing the bias a bit to 200mA or so and see if that helps, have you tried this? Mine was low on one channel at 110mA. Just thinking, I changed the primary transformer connection from 220V to 240V connection which has probably smoothed the sound a bit too.

I suspect the main power supply capacitors may be original and possibly due a change, they're 4 x Elna CE W 15000uf 80V if you know what was in them from new.

Anyway, thanks again and apologies for the ramble. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.