tetreb

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Reiss score for something more 'fashion'. They have a strong suit business and I think it is all made in China. They knock everything else here into a cocked hat for value. I think you can forget pretty much all else. It is either poorly cut, tasteless, expensive and quite often all three.

:D

Reiss is excellent; classic ...however designed for the slimmer frame. Also worth looking at is Suit Supply http://eu.suitsupply.com/en_GB/home

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I've been buying an Aquascutum suit each year for the last 15+ years. I've also bought Crombie and Jaeger.

The aquascutums have been brilliant. Some of them I just can't wear out. They suit my shape. You can see they are cut better than the cheaper Jaeger ones. They also last better.

The crombie suit I have is higher end than the Aquascutums.

Buy British, imo we make the best suits in the world. There are sales on currently at Aquascutum and Jaeger. I bought a prince of Wales from Jaeger in a nice blue cool wool. British cloth and tasteful.

Jaeger now do a made in Britain line @ about £600-£750 a suit. I'm guessing these would be pretty special. You'd be far better off with one of the Aqua, Crombie or Jaeger suits rather than a tm Lewin or Tyrwhitt suit.

Shoes wise - Cheaney (ideally) , Trickers or Grensons (bit cheaper), Loakes (cheaper again, try and get at least Grensons). Get some shoe trees as well as it'll pay dividends in keeping the shoes looking like new. The Tyrwhitt shoe trees are great.

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:rofl: that's my entire working life out the window then!

Sorry for that, just not my cup of coffee :)

It's very hard to make suggestions (other than personal preference) for off the peg, because some cuts suit certain frame shapes over others. I like Paul Smith, Canali and Boglioli and I find stuff like Hugo Boss to be way too baggy.

Anyway, when Ritchie's finished posting cool gifs, he'll advise :)

Hugo Boss is also too boxy for me, I prefer slimmer cuts. I appreciate brand naming as it gives me a reference for further exploration. A lot of names have been dropped so far, it will help everyone in need of a suit to know what to look for. Thanks for that. I found this page with a lot of brand recommendations and house style descriptions, some of which mentioned in this thread as well. Certainly makes for an interesting read.

Very good post Ritchie. All that so called designer off the peg shite is really overpriced tat so people can wear a brand name that is recognisable rather than being a well cut or made suit :^

Back to the OP, don't you need to budget for more than one suit and more than one pair of shoes? I'd echo the suggestions of buying quality shoes but the best way of keeping them looking great is to not wear them every day.

Yes this is going to get expensive!

Perhaps, but I only have enough money for one suit, one pair of shoes and a couple of shirts. I need to extend my funds until the end of the year when I'll hopefully start earning again. The idea is to buy one decent, versatile suit to get me through the interview process with the corporate c*nts (not to be confused with dealer cn*ts). Depending on the industry and type of job I land, I will know whether I'll have to wear a suit every day. I understand that I need to have a rotation of several suits and, if need be, I'll buy several more when the cash starts flowing again.

Those of you who wear suits every day, how many do you have in your wardrobe? I've seen some advise to have 5, one for each day of the work week, but that sounds excessive to me. What about shoes? Can I get away with less than very formal shoes or is it a no-no? Can I wear brown shoes with charcoal and black suits?

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Are you slim like Nick Cave? Would be good to know...

Considering bespoke tailoring which is the root of suiting generally, Italian, French and British tailoring are all quite different. Broadly and classically, (fashion is something else entirely) Italian style dictates that suits are worn close fitting with little padding in the shoulders.

Tailoring is a little more formed in the north compared to the south, where they don't mind if the cloth 'breaks'. British tailoring style by comparison, looks to make the wearer more athletic looking and a suit if well made should look like it is chiselled out of a bit of rock.

French tailoring is more like northern Italian than British. But kind of softer with rounded shoulders.

Neapolitan tailoring is more ornate than northern Italian, i.e. it has more stitching detail and quite often the cloth is more flamboyant and colourful. Italian style has the notion of 'sprezzatura' which is a subtle humbling of ones dress. Neapolitan tailoring takes this to extremes. The sleeves will have a ripple at the crown. The coat will be mostly un-lined, which makes it more likely to wrinkle and the idea of fit is totally different to British style, which Italian men can find quite vulgar. Of course, we here in Britain find colourful suits quite vulgar too. I would also suggest that spending excessive time making your outfit look less than perfect, is just the other side of the vanity coin...

Anyway, I digress... British tailoring these day's isn't made in Britain. There is only Chester Barrie left and that would be beyond your price point. All businesses here are trying to get factories off shore to make something British looking for them which is very difficult and not only that, because the industry has died here, no one knows how to actually cut garments that fit. Fashions have come and gone and the technical side of cutting has been lost. The industry has been making chips so long that it has forgotten what potatoes look like. Burberry, Paul Smith and Dunhill are all overpriced rubbish. At a pinch I would have a look at what Aquascutum are doing, quite classic with a nice high armhole - more stylish and comfortable.

Numbers really matter here. Any company that can't order thousands is going to be making expensive suits. Reiss score for something more 'fashion'. They have a strong suit business and I think it is all made in China. They knock everything else here into a cocked hat for value. I think you can forget pretty much all else. It is either poorly cut, tasteless, expensive and quite often all three.

I have to say that you may be best served by buying an Italian suit and Zegna would be where I would look first. They have unbroken tailoring heritage, they make it all themselves and within their range, cater for different markets, both geographically and pricewise. I would steer clear of any of the fashion brands. It is almost uniformly overpriced shit. If you want to know how I know this, pm me for a tirade! :D

Thanks for the answer, very informative read even if I had to reach for the dictionary more than once. I'm no Nick Cave, he was mentioned just as an example of someone who's been able to effortlessly wear formal clothing in a very informal way. I'd love to be able to do the same and play around the rules a bit. Of course, I'd have to find my own style first... BTW, I found out who his tailor is, he has a very interesting website with musings on various sartorial topics.

I'm much shorter than Cave, about 178, but I'm reasonably slim and I suppose that a similar style would suit me well. I've given up on the bespoke rout for the time being as I need to have my suit turned soon. I wasn't aware it took so much time to have a custom suit made.

As I only plan to buy one suit for now, it should be durable, less susceptible to wrinkling and able to sustain frequent travels. Does it mean I should focus on cloths in the lower 100s, up to 120s? What color and pattern (if any) do you recommend? Pin stripes out? Is herringbone weaving more durable?

Zegna should be a good call, I have a Zegna shirt that fits me perfectly and is a joy to wear. Canali is another brand that sounds interesting, apparently they only make canvassed suits that are supposed to be durable. I think I'll go to an outlet in Italy and try my luck there. Another option is Boggi Milano, they have decent discounts locally at the moment.

I will send you a PM as I'm curious to learn more on the supply chain as a matter of personal interest.

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I've you've looked at Chris Kerr you might also want to look at a couple of other London independent folk.

Mark Powell - the geezer's / mod's tailor. From the look of the front page it would appear that Bilbo Baggins also shops there. As do Paul Weller and Bradley Wiggins.

Charlie Allen - I've heard several recommendations for this guy, although personally I was put off by a somewhat negative experience when I went in to get the lie of the land.

edit: Ah - just noticed your comment about not having enough time for bespoke. All these guys do made-to-measure, and off-the-peg (with the odd adjustment here and there) too.

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Those of you who wear suits every day, how many do you have in your wardrobe?

I tend to have three for regular use. This gives me a good choice of colours and looks.

You'll need more that one (even if the second is relatively cheap) to allow for routine cleaning, accidental stains or just getting caught in the rain etc...

I also have two suits that I reserve for important occasions.

One very formal and one more relaxed occasions.

If you travel a lot you may also need to cater for different climates.

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Thanks for the answer, very informative read even if I had to reach for the dictionary more than once. I'm no Nick Cave, he was mentioned just as an example of someone who's been able to effortlessly wear formal clothing in a very informal way. I'd love to be able to do the same and play around the rules a bit. Of course, I'd have to find my own style first... BTW, I found out who his tailor is, he has a very interesting website with musings on various sartorial topics.

I'm much shorter than Cave, about 178, but I'm reasonably slim and I suppose that a similar style would suit me well. I've given up on the bespoke rout for the time being as I need to have my suit turned soon. I wasn't aware it took so much time to have a custom suit made.

As I only plan to buy one suit for now, it should be durable, less susceptible to wrinkling and able to sustain frequent travels. Does it mean I should focus on cloths in the lower 100s, up to 120s? What color and pattern (if any) do you recommend? Pin stripes out? Is herringbone weaving more durable?

Zegna should be a good call, I have a Zegna shirt that fits me perfectly and is a joy to wear. Canali is another brand that sounds interesting, apparently they only make canvassed suits that are supposed to be durable. I think I'll go to an outlet in Italy and try my luck there. Another option is Boggi Milano, they have decent discounts locally at the moment.

I will send you a PM as I'm curious to learn more on the supply chain as a matter of personal interest.

I think Nick Cave is a very interesting case as far as tailoring/style/image goes. I too think he looks great but I don't think it is effortless or that he's actually all that formal.

As a tailor, what I try to do is make clothes that don't shout about themselves and are all about the customer. The choice of cloth, the style/shape are all discussed with the purpose of making someone not only to look themselves and their best but feel comfortable/at ease. Quite often my discussion with the customer poses questions they haven't considered. In NC's case, his clothes are actually quite far out but totally fitting his larger than life personality. I am pretty sure he goes to his tailor with a very complete picture of what he wants. Chris Kerr does a great job of detailing the suits in such a way that they really fit the brief. Nick Cave wears very little colour, especially the older he gets. Mostly his suits are dark and a mix of black and brown. He actively persues a louche, lounge lizard look and this coupled with his history as a complicated, religion fixated drug addict and his grown out vampiric hair, complete the picture. He is whippet thin and his clothes don't follow fashion. The suits are subtly 70's inspired, with a little width to the lapel but a longish coat. He also often wears slightly flared trousers. His style is very considered and distilled and works beautifully. An awful lot of his look is him! As you say, you are best looking at getting your own look and it should be about you, that will make you outwardly confident.

For durability, look for something with a mohair content. It adds a bit of crease resistance and will need less up-keep. 120's wool may be a little fine for a suit that will receive a lot of wear... Pinstripes and herringbone weaves make little or no difference to the durability of cloth. I would look for a Hopsack or Fresco. Both 'plain weaves' with Fresco having a higher 'twist' giving it excellent memory/recovery.

Fully canvassed coats are the way to go if possible. The canvas should, if made properly, be put in longer than the outer fabric. This effectively means that the outer is kept taut by the extra length of the inner which means it will retain is shape. There are machine methods to canvassing coats and well done they are good. They don't honestly come close to a good hand made one though. My heart lifts looking at a proper handmade coat on a mannequin or hanger!

Your Pm needs consideration!

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Super Wammer

Oooh, just saw this thread about threads. Nice. I have a small collection of suits. Most are off the peg and a trio are made to measure. As the missus works for Burberry (she designs small leather goods) I have a couple of their suits (though I prefer their coats), I also have a couple (one is excellent the other isn't so good) from Paul Smith (my brother - a textile designer - worked there for a while so I got great discounts). Other suits are from Reiss and Cos...

In fact, Reiss are on sale at the moment and just today I bought a pair of suits (one plain charcoal the other a more 'textured' navy) for the princely sum of £460. :^

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Super Wammer
I have 2 suits,one for magistrates and the other for crown court,weddings etc..

Reminds me of the (very) old joke:-

What do you call a Scouser in a suit ?

The defendant.

No offence to Liverpudlians intended.

k

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Super Wammer
Just an offence to comedy.

Mrs k would tell you that all my "jokes" are an offence to comedy !

k

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Have to say i do like the stuff he wears.

p01c4846.jpg

Not exactly an interview suit though! Interesting handkerchief position... I have been trying to work out if it actually does match the shirt. :D

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Boggi on sale at moment (30%) off. Suit supply might be well worth a look. Why not ask the same question on 'styleforum' , you might find them helpful too. Mind you, expect the same heated debates we have when talking about cables

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