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About fletchdirect

  • Rank
  • Birthday 25/05/1976

Personal Info

  • Location
  • Real Name
    Captain Japanese

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    SP10+SH10B3, TTS8000
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    Trichord Dino+
  • Digital Source 1
    Sony CDP915E
  • Digital Source 2
    Yamaha CDX710
  • Integrated Amp
    Diesis DA300
  • Pre-Amp
    Kenwood L1000C
  • Power Amp/s
    Kenwood L1000M
  • My Speakers
    Mission 733, NS 2000
  • Headphones
    Sony MDR-CD850

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  1. Am offering this on ebay - well cared for indeed - have enjoyed this immensely! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142455751432?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  2. just checked your wigwam info - we have a couple of things in common TTS8000 and NS1000 - unfortunately with a toddler about, both are in storage.....
  3. Evening all Apart from Rega amps, has anyone ever come across any integrated amps whose phono stages are incredibly / unexpectedly good? Cheers
  4. Not sure, you could be right. What I have found is that you can upgrade to higher quality drivers as the size and fitting is almost identical. I know my single cap arrangement is controversial to some, but the standard Ruark crossover sounded very muddy. I like a bit of experimentation and the Ruark cabinets are easy to work on and well built.
  5. I believe that most of the Ruark models had stock Seas and Vifa drivers, so you can renew drivers / make a swap or upgrade relatively easily. I just renewed my Ruark Swordsman with new upgraded Vifa and Scanspeak drivers, and replaced the crossover with a single cap. Amazing improvement, copious levels of detail and really wide soundstage.
  6. I second that, I have a 915e and they are fab, very reliable despite their 1990s vintage.
  7. If you don't go for the technics t4p mc option, there is an ortofon and audio technica range of p mounts still available. William Thakker from Germany has them online. You can always buy an ortofon omp10 cheaply second hand online and upgrade the stylus to a brand new 30 or 40 which are very good indeed.
  8. Evening all, I had previously needed some new speakers acceptable to the wife and to counterbalance a warm sounding system. Well, decided to go for a semi diy route in the end. I had brought back some old Ruark Swordsman speakers from a mate and performed some surgery. - drivers replaced with vifa woofers p17wj and scanspeak d2608/9130 tweeters. - internal rewire with chord odyssey 2, back wiring is jantzen 18 awg silver plated copper. - for the moment no crossover as such just a single cap to the tweeter mounted on the rear, woofer connected directly to the amp. Appreciate this has its pros and cons, but working well for me. So far sounding fab, masses of detail vs what I heard previously from the equipment and much wider soundstage. Really clean sound with the sort of brighter edge I was looking for. The sony cdp 915e and Kenwood l-1000m are performing lounge duties very admirably!! (Albeit minus stands/racks). cheers julian Here is the back of the cabinet
  9. Thanks for the reply. I have read about this approach a few times. I played around with my Ruarks previously, and took the crossover external and replaced caps etc - but resulted in wires everywhere and tons of soldering, which p*ssed everybody off at home. I also replaced the driver with an upgraded Vifa. I was thinking afterwards of just connecting the bass driver up to the amp directly, and then running a capacitor directly to the tweeter. There's so many differing views on this - worries about the bass driver distorting etc. So it has been effective for you then!! PS - what does doping the bass driver mean?
  10. That's interesting - what did you feel was wrong with the Wharfedales? What did you fix?
  11. Afternoon! Am looking for a speaker reco please. Budget 250 max - either sh or new, but preferably new. Need to replace my speakers to solve two problems in one...... 1) Change of room layout and the usual WAF - serious complaints about floorstanders. 2) I had been running Mission 733, Kenwood L1000M and Sony CDP915E (directly into power amp via variable output). I found the sound ok but too warm with lack of treble clarity for my liking. I've borrowed some Mission 700s from a friend (the newer design). That solved the WAF but the sound will still too warm for me and I didn't particularly like the performance of them. I therefore would like some recos for a bookshelf speaker with an overtly bright balance with plenty of detail, to counteract what seems a warmer sounding combo in the amp and cd player. At the moment, I cannot afford to change the system, just the speakers only. I used to run the CD and Amp with some Ruarks and didn't experience quite such warmth as I have now, but they are long gone. PS - I know this forum hates cable discussions, but for what its worth - its hooked up with Chord Odyssey 2 and Ecosse Reference. PPS - nothing in the room but a settee, blinds and wooden floor - no big curtains or axminster. BIG thanks for your help!! Cheers.
  12. These are the ones loaded with Kef drivers (Kef 139F + B110 + T27). Must be in good condition and full working order. Cheers!
  13. How does the new Yamaha amp sound with the NS1000Ms?
  14. just to be clear - my 1603 isn't for sale, but just wanted to recommend it - there's always one on the bay....
  15. Hi All, Has anyone any experience of using a "professional" active crossover in a hifi setup? E.g. one of the dbx units as per the weblink. http://dbxpro.com/en-US/products/223s These are as cheap as chips (£100+) and would help to not only fine tune the right crossover frequencies when building new speakers, but could also be a permanent fixture in between pre-amp and power amps in one's hifi. My concern is that they will destroy the sound quality (in the same way as some would say a graphic equaliser would), vs a well designed passive crossover with good quality capacitors etc. Any thoughts / experience? Cheers.