sunbeamgls

Super Wammer Plus
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sunbeamgls last won the day on December 17 2019

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About sunbeamgls

  • Rank
    Wammer

Personal Info

  • Location
    North Wales

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Ariston RD80sl
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    LVX+ / G920IGC Jelco
  • Digital Source 1
    Linn AEDSM
  • DAC
    Akurate Exaktbox6/1
  • Pre-Amp
    Linn AEDSM & AK/0
  • Power Amp/s
    3x Lejonklou Tundra
  • My Speakers
    PMC Twenty.26 Exakt
  • Headphones
    Mojo & Nighthawk
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. thanks 'Troll, but you'll know by now that guidance is for mere mortals, not for Paul
  2. Paul, are you finding the top 2 or 3 sliders have near enough all the impact and the rest are not making any difference? I think SO presents them in total surface area priority?
  3. That's fair enough. If you look at the FR of the headphones you'll see they have their own characteristic. If it is the intention to replicate that then your method will take you towards that. I just wanted to mention this so it is clear to readers that the headphone sound will be reproduced rather than getting the system and room close to a flat response.
  4. Zee, I think picknight might be referring to this approach: http://audiophilemusings.blogspot.com/2015/01/frankenkeilidhs-zombie-speakers-rise-up_87.html Just house the passive crossover in a small wooden box with the normal connectors protruding through one panel and a set of 3x pairs of flying leads through grommited holes. The leads are terminated with 4mm banana plugs to go into the 4mm binding posts on the Keilidhs. All carefully labelled to avoid connecting bass signals to tweeter connections of course!
  5. I also tried the optical bridge approach on this link. I didn't like it. I expect it has more to do with introducing 2 more low cost SMPS into the same mains as the streamer than it has to do with the network elements, although it is true that many transceivers are very noisy and adding one may be generating much more noise into the DS than a switch would be generating. Or not. I repurposed this kit to sit between the modem and the router to create electrical isolation from the incoming network, to insure against lightning strike.
  6. Linn's reference to Exakt systems in the quote is a bit misleading. They really should have been more specific about the Exaktlink itsself.
  7. This is an interesting and potentially useful approach but needs to take the headphones' own response characteristics into account https://www.innerfidelity.com/images/FocalClearsnA1BRQE000007.pdf
  8. Yes some prefer old over new and vice versa. Some prefer other brands completely and there's lots to choose from. van Damme Blue 4mm is very close to K400/600 and is very reasonably priced. I would suggest, if the Kabers are going to be used active, the K600 would be best staying with them. Perhaps get the van Damme then spend some time borrowing cables from a dealer to see what the differences are (and be aware that a difference doesn't necessarily equate to an improvement!)?
  9. Did you make the changes to the internal passive crossover in the Keilidhs? There's some soldering work to do to swap between passive and active.
  10. No chance of buddying up with someone who can loan a pair of speakers so you can still provide a room?
  11. An interesting analysis but I think the question was specific to the upgrade from Majik Exaktbox-i to Akurate Exaktbox-i internals with katalyst.
  12. My Exaktbox-i says 275W So that's less than 1.5 amps at 230V and just over 3 amps at 110V. So a 5 amp cable will be sufficient. I'm fairly sure the AQ will easily cope but still best to check it is 5 amp or higher.
  13. Thanks for sharing your journey mcg. I've heard Amphion a number of times at shows and enjoyed many of them. The large floorstanders work very well with Hegel so could be worth considering. We could always take a look at Exakting them too Where are you based?
  14. Your dealer should advise, or use the contact on the AQ website they're usually quite responsive.