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About MotherSky

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Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    JVC TT-71;DIY plinth
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    DIY Hadcock / MMIII
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    on board LS100
  • Digital Source 1
    PSAudio PWT
  • Digital Source 2
    Auralic Aries Femto
  • DAC
    Aqua La Voce S3
  • Pre-Amp
    Modwright LS100
  • Power Amp/s
    Sugden Musicmaster
  • My Speakers
    Proac Response 1sc
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Hm - I wonder what their catalogue/collection is like - some irritating gaps in Tidal, forcing me to actually get up and put on CDs - I'm sure this must infringe my human rights in some way
  2. I would say that if you are able to convert your Node thing for such a relatively modest outlay, it would be what our American cousins would call a "no brainer" - having experimented with fairly basic Pi (actually Allo) based streaming, the difference between mid-fi and completely acceptable hifi sound was purely down to power supplies - as others have commented, this is hardly a novel concept, and is far removed from cable-lifter black magic nonsense - if you already own a decent LPS, all the better, otherwise something like the Teradak DC30W would be a good place to start - you can adjust the voltage yourself, and it's astonishing for the money - I currently use an Sbooster BOTW Ultra, but appreciate that it might be a leap of faith at this point... Just do it!
  3. I would strongly recommend trying a high quality non ported sub - I use an REL Strata V very successfully with my 1SCs - you get retain (and even enhance) all the qualities of the speakers, but with added bass - if done carefully, there really is no downside - I am extremely sceptical about more recent REL products, if I were buying new now, I'd look at the B&W PV1 - maybe you could order something on approval? I have no plans to change my speakers, and ultimately a 2.1 arrangement is far more adaptable to different rooms etc
  4. Gosh, there seems to be a bit of unnecessary crossness on this thread... As @TheFlash said, it's worth searching back through recent posts on the topic - I will just add that whilst I fully respect the views/perception of those who discern no significant differences between various digital sources, this has been a very long way from my experience: using my disc transport as a benchmark, I endeavoured to spend as little as possible to achieve comparable performance from a streamer (both feeding the same DAC) - I ended up with an ex dem Aries Femto with Sbooster PS - next best was a stripped out laptop, running one of the various software packages I tried, powered from the battery, running through an Uptone ISOregen with LPS-1 power supply, but it was really inconvenient & no one else in the house could work out how to put music on.. I didn't get to try any of the Sonore devices, and that would top of my list if I were looking for something to build a Roon system around - otherwise (if I were feeling flush) I'd probably go for the Aries G1 and then go on holiday, because I'm an audiophile, and that's just how I roll...
  5. You are clearly a man of excellent taste
  6. PCC88s now sold & paid for (thank you Graham) inc the free ECC88s - just the 5R4GYS left - if you have a compatible valve rectified PS, I can't recommend it highly enough - I think quite a few of Modwright's PS circuits can use this valve, but obviously make sure before you buy it & bear in mind it is really tall! MH
  7. I did try to take a snap of the plinth blank for my 401, but it's buried under a lot of stuff at the workshop, so here's a pic of the significantly smaller one I made for my TT71:
  8. For sale - three sets of NOS PCC88 ( can be substituted for ECC88) - these (the Tungsrams) were recommended by Dan Wright of Modwright fame (along with the Philips rectifier) for use in the Elyse DAC which I have recently moved on - they are: National/Matsushita made in Japan: matched pair purchased from Langrex - only used for maybe 20 hours or so; Tungsram PCC88 - tested matched pair, bought from a dealer in Germany; Pinnacle branded Tungsram PCC88 - tested matched pair - bought as a spare set, fitted to test and then forgot to swap them back - as a result, each set of Tungsrams has probably had somewhere in the order of 150 hours maximum during my relatively brief ownership of the DAC - the Philips Rectifier (bought tested/as new/unused) has probably had closer to 250 hours (I'm keeping the Mullard GZ34 I was using before for my preamp - the Philips sounded far better in the DAC) - I would prefer to sell the PCC88s as a job lot: for £50 + postage - if you go for this, I will include the pair of (Brimar?) gold pin ECC88s pictured below - I have no idea as to their provenance, had no idea I even had them, and now have no way to test them, so it's pot luck on those... I'd like £30 + post for the Philips 5R4GYS - any questions etc. feel free to PM - PPG/BT/cash on collection from near Shrewsbury welcome - MH
  9. Don't know your arm, but the AT150mlx has pretty high compliance for a modern cart - I even briefly had mine on an Odyssey Black Widow - it's the best MM I've ever had and could always find a place on a replacement deck as and when - not really sure I agree with the assessment of the Revolver - auditioned one back in the eighties vs a Systemdek IIX and the latter was comprehensively better... YMMV etc
  10. My 401 project is currently on hold, but having been very pleased with my DD plinth - which consists of a phenolic core, sandwiched between two layers of bamboo, which in turn is sandwiched between two layers of C18th Cuban mahogany - I have made up some much more substantial blanks using Wenge in the place of Cuban: the intention being to have two sections - one for the motor unit, and one for the arm, sited on a single base board (the latter possibly green slate?) possibly using fixed cups/spikes as isolation - even without the slate it already weighs a LOT.... I will be returning to this when time/funds allow - the 401 itself is still in bits following refinishing of the cosmetically challenged top plate (now in gloss post box red: the only element so far to receive domestic approval) - the sound of my TT71 was transformed by the new plinth, but it was primarily driven by aesthetics rather than any kind of actual engineering/science/knowledge of any kind...
  11. I would suggest trying something like an Audio Technica AT120e cartridge as a first step (£120ish) - it is very forgiving of setup, and IME has excellent bass and no noticeable treble lift - coincidentally, I restored a Hydraulic Reference for a customer a few years ago and he fitted an AT120e - it sounded very good to my ears running through a Kenwood 3020se (another excellent budget amp) - you can always work your way up to some of the excellent suggestions made above when funds allow, and hang on to the V15 for such time as you're able to get the best from it.
  12. When you say preamp, do you mean an external phono stage to connect to a line level input on your integrated? If so, what is your budget, and more critically, what cartridge are you using at the moment? The latter would be the first thing to address
  13. MotherSky

    Valve info

    I will indeed email Mr Wright, but I think I am persuaded to try your GZ32 suggestion: Langrex have some Mazda branded Philips/Miniwatt that look interesting and definitely in budget - thanks again for your extremely comprehensive response - there is a rambling thread on Audio Circle that I trawled through pertaining to the LS100, but the quality of the advice appears somewhat variable, and mainly covers US valves or new Chinese stuff - some of which is surprisingly expensive
  14. MotherSky

    Valve info

    Thanks for going to the trouble to post this - I think I might just play it safe and go with another Mullard GZ34 - it's only that it was completely outclassed by the Philips 5R4GYS when I swapped them out in the DAC - it is all too easy to disappear down yet another expensive rabbit hole...
  15. MotherSky

    Valve info

    My apologies - you are absolutely right - it is indeed the (Philips) 5R4GYS - this is listed as compatible with the DAC, but from what you are saying I should probably check with the manufacturer before trying it in my preamp - it seems my caution was well founded - thank you