• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Community Reputation

39 Excellent


About lindsayt

  • Rank
  • Birthday Private

Personal Info

  • Location
    Huddersfield, , Unit

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
  • Digital Source 1
  • Power Amp/s
    Coincident, Korneff
  • My Speakers
    EV, Bozak

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. lindsayt

    Please educate me on crossover slopes

    Yes, the same basic principles, sort of. But a first order (6db) passive crossover will just have have the signal passing through a single capacitor or inductor plus maybe a couple of resistors on the way to the speaker driver. In my experience, the better, more transparent sounding active analogue crossovers have been ones with a 6db first order slope. Less is more in this case. This may well have been at the expense of 1 or 2 dbs of flatness in the crossover region, or it may not with the particular speaker drivers and cabinet in question. A 24 or 48 db passive or active crossover will have the signal passing through a lot more than that. In the case of an analogue active crossover, the signal may be passing through 30 or more transistors - and often not very good ones, just transistors embedded in op amps. With such an active analogue crossover, the signal will be passing through a lot more active amplification devices (transistors) than are contained in my entire system (about 12 as a combination of transistors, valves and transformers). Digital crossovers will still add transistors to the signal path. As well as the ADC with an analogue source and DAC . How many, I don't know as I've not seen the circuit diagrams. I've not tried a digital active crossover yet. I'm planning to, when my DIY'd speakers get under way, as an easy way to blend 4 x different drivers. I will however in due course of time be comparing it against a DIY'd passive crossover... From what I've read, the mini-DSP's are not sonically transparent. Whether the price to pay in terms of lack of transparency is worth it - remains to be tested. I am keeping an open mind as to whether digital active crossovers really are the way to go for anyone seeking the highest levels of music reproduction...
  2. lindsayt

    Please educate me on crossover slopes

    That article is all very well, but it misses out an important point - for anyone aiming to acheive the highest levels of fidelity. A crossover - any crossover active or passive - should do the minimum to muck up the signal in terms of dynamics, clarity, detail resolution... I'd rather have a system that varied from a flat frequency response by a few dbs here and there than one with a ruler flat response that was lacking in dynamics, clarity or detail resolution.
  3. lindsayt

    Please educate me on crossover slopes

    Do you, by any chance, have any links to the circuit diagram for your 48db crossover? I'm just wondering how many transistors etc you are adding to your signal path with this...
  4. lindsayt

    The ‘end game’?

    I had an old LP12, that over the years I had spent a fair amount of money on, upgrading to Ittok LVIII, Troika, Lingo 2, T cable. There was a significant, easy to notice difference between it and my EMT record players - I was delighted when I bought them. Even more delighted that they have risen in value since buying them. A significant sonic leap over an old LP12 does not need to cost you a net penny. I have not particularly enjoyed the hugely expensive SME's that I have heard. Great for detail, relatively poor for dynamics. Not my cup of tea at all. I'd rather have an LP12! I am not aware of any 30k speakers that I'd call end game. Maybe you or someone else can suggest some? I have come across 3k DIY'd (cough cough Steve57's) speakers that I would call end game.
  5. lindsayt

    The ‘end game’?

    Patrician 800 Data Sheet
  6. lindsayt

    The ‘end game’?

    This is a picture from six years ago, when I was using them for background listening whilst decorating. They sound best - tightest bass - when placed one inch from the corners.
  7. lindsayt

    The ‘end game’?

    That image is of an earlier version of the Patricians than mine. I have the 800's. If I turn them up (like putting 2 watts through them) for deep bass heavy music I do fear that it may be the end of some of my Victorian plasterwork.
  8. lindsayt

    The ‘end game’?

    I have been at my end game for most of my system for a few years now. Analogue source: Studer reel to reel. Vinyl source: EMT 950 CD's: Philips 753 or Marantz CD 48 Preamp: NVA P50SA or Lightspeed LDR Power amp: Korneff clone or Coincident Frankenstein Prototype or Urei 6290 I have been struggling to find anything that can beat that little lot in a significant way. Although I am sure there may be stuff out there that will shave a bit more realism out of my recordings. For the speakers, I am happy with my EV Patricians, but would like to try a DIY Frankenstein dead body parts project. I have the tweeters, I just need the midrange units, upper bass drivers, large woofers, at the right prices...
  9. Could you have an FA Cup knock-out type speaker bake-off to narrow it down to the best speaker and then do the same with the amplifiers? I'd be really struggling to guess which would sound best with your music to your ears in your room.
  10. lindsayt

    Active Speakers Reference Thread

    There is no difference in the amount of overlap, for example the amount of bass signal being sent to the tweeters in an active or passive system per se. It's all down to the crossover slope. 6db per octave(1st order), 12 db (2nd order), 18 db (3rd order), 24 dbs per octave (4th order) or whatever. In my active system I have a slope of 6 dbs per octave. I have passive speakers with slopes of 12 dbs or 18 dbs per octave. Therefore my passive speakers have less overlap than my actives.
  11. lindsayt

    ignoring the "bling" how much for state of the art ?

    My views are that at retail prices of £68,000 upwards, they are too expensive for me brand new. And likely to be too expensive for me on the used market for quite a few years to come. I also tend to prefer a minumum of 12" for my bass drivers. And for anything costing me over £500, I'd have a preference for 18" or bigger bass drivers. I also prefer sensitive, easy to drive speakers.
  12. lindsayt

    ignoring the "bling" how much for state of the art ?

    When it comes to hi-fi, there is so little correlation between price (to buy today) and sound quality that it might as well not exist. There's more correlation between weight and sound quality. And that's a tenuous one at best.
  13. lindsayt

    which cd sounds best on your system ?

    Cooper Temple Clause. Over compressed. Red DR rating of 5. Play it back to back with a dark green track with appropriate volume adjustment and the compression will be appallingly apparent. For a few years I've been wondering if some people are more sensitive to dynamic compression that others. I've seen a Youtube video of a music industry producer who over compresses everything going on about the "lovely detail" that he gets when he uses massive amounts of compression. Low level detail will be boosted up in volume, making it easier to hear. At the same time it makes music sound unnatural / lacking in emotion or impact / not breathing in a natural way. It's like he uses the left side of his brain (the side that deals with speech and analytical thinking) only when listening to music, whilst I'm using both sides. With the side that handles emotion being engaged too. Listening to red DR rating albums is like eating a diet of McDonalds. I get tired by the blandness of it all. By my definition, no overcompressed recording is a good one. All over compressed recordings sound compressed to me. Especially when played back to back with a relatively uncompressed album. I am not aware of any musical genre that suits compression. All you need to do is find a dark green recording of that genre EG 1970's Kraftwerk for electronic music to realise that non compressed or less compressed is better.
  14. lindsayt

    Tubes vs SS for treble

    This may be down to semantics, but you may want overly smooth tweeter. I don't. And by overly smooth I mean ones that smooth over transients. So that if I were make a loudness vs time graph in my head where a real instrument would have an Eiffel Tower shaped graph I want my tweeters to recreate this with an Eiffel Tower shaped graph and not a Great Pyramid shaped graph. Treble instruments in real life can have a real bite and real "ear piercing" sound. I prefer to have that recreated and not smoothed over.
  15. lindsayt

    JBL K2 9800

    It's a shame they don't work well in your room with their backs closer to the wall, so that you could say "They don't even take up more real world floor-space than a pair of tiny ported standmounts."