manicatel

Wammer
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About manicatel

  • Rank
    Wammer

Personal Info

  • Location
    Herts/Essex border
  • Real Name
    matt

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    michell orbe
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Lyra Kleos
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    Audio Research PH5
  • Digital Source 1
    MacMini
  • DAC
    Bel Canto DAC3
  • Pre-Amp
    Bel Canto PRe3
  • My Speakers
    ATC SCM40a
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. A sub does benefit from running in, as regular speakers do. The G2 is an old discontinued model now so I would double check its history before handing over the £££. I remember a REL demo where the music was Gregorian type choral music. No low bass instruments as such, just male voices in a large space................. As soon as the sub was switched on, suddenly you could hear the acoustics of the cathedral, the reverb & the dimension of the space just came alive.
  2. That’s a good way of summing up the set up of a sub. I think REL make excellent subs & they can work really well with music. They’re not just for the brutal crash bang wallop stuff. When they’re dialled in well, they can add air & dimension to music & even things like acoustic guitar, male choirs, piano can all benefit from having a well set up sub in a system.
  3. There are so many variables to consider when it comes to a good vs bad recording. I'd say don't get too bogged down in it all. The producer, mastering, the care taken by the mastering engineer, compression, etc etc. And yes the analogue master vs digital master.......... is the original analogue master tape still in good enough condition to use, or is a digital master the best bet? Is the digital master CD quality, or Hi-Res? A hi-res digital master, used by someone with skill & a passion for getting it right may well be superior to someone who has just knocked out a quick copy without much care, even if the source was all analogue. There's good & bad with all scenarios. You will find some you love & some that possibly disappoint, but don't let "if's but's & maybe's" stop you from enjoying the music.
  4. The diy’er will enjoy making their own concoctions from distilled water & ilfatol etc. Can’t be bothered with all that myself, so for an easy life, the ProJect “Wash It” does the trick very well indeed & I don’t think it’s expensive for the results you get.
  5. Go with the direction of the writing. So if it says TelluriumQ, the T end would be at the source end. As to the L & R, it doesn’t matter as long as R at source end is connected to R at the destination end & so on. Both conductors are identical to each other so as long as you connect it L-L & R-R you’ll be fine. Hope that makes sense!
  6. manicatel

    Roon 1.7

    Before Roon, I was using Audirvana+ which you could say sets out to achieve similar Library management goals. Pure Music & Amarra amongst others are alternatives, but in all honesty, despite the rather heavy price of Roon, it is by far the best of them for me.
  7. For someone starting out with streaming, I'd say it depends on whether you like playing about to experiment with it to max it out, or you just want something that is simple to understand & "it just works". If the latter is the case, then a Bluesound Node2i, straight into your amp, just like connecting any other source, is the way to go. It's very decent sounding & the app is one of the best & simplest to use. A Sonos connect is cheaper & still has a great, easy to understand app but its sound quality is limited compared to the Node2i. If you can run an ethernet cable from your router to it, I would. If not, as long as your wifi is fairly decent in the area where the Node is sited, then that will still work well. Get a trial subscription to Tidal &/or Qobuz to dip your toe in the streaming world for a couple of weeks. I would guess that very few who try streaming decide its no good.
  8. I think the 2M Blue is more like £185 or so usually, unless there are some VERY good deals about. Maybe it’s just the replacement blue stylus that’s at the £110 or so?
  9. ProJects usually come with Ortofon Carts. Something from the 2M Range would be a natural partner. However, they start with the 2M Red at approx £95 new. If it’s the tt I’m picturing, it’s a very decent £1k item & so is deserving of something of at least 2M Red quality. I'm not familiar with the Yam amp, so don’t know how tasty the built-in phono stage is. If you’re happy with the AT91, which is a (now discontinued?) budget cart, & it’s in good condition, it may be worth sticking with that a bit longer & saving some more to get a bit further up the ladder.
  10. Don’t think in general there’s a lot of love for the brand in these parts. Maybe I’m wrong. Several years ago I had some 1007be’s, traded them for 1008be’s, then on to 1028be’s & briefly Kanta2’s. Used with a Graaf valve amp. The 1028’s were lovely but when I moved into a different room, I just couldn’t get them to work as they did previously. The stand mounts had great bass for their size. In general, I think they’ve got bags of detail, lovely mids & vocals. Lovely cabinetry, they make most other speakers look like boring MDF boxes. Like a lot of brands, in the right system & room they can really sing. Get the system matching wrong & results falter. The brand tie-in with Naim is likely to bring negative comments.
  11. My music room is small, about 3x5 metres. Whilst I can partially understand the comments about big speakers in a small room, everything upstream can surely be as high quality as in a larger room. I have used stand mount speakers in this room, & to me they lacked deep bass. I have also tried Focal Kanta 2’s & yes, they were a bit overpowering. I have some GIK panels covering the 1st & 2nd reflection points, as without them there was a lot of annoying flutter echo. A small amount of bass trapping as well. Every room is different. Size is but one element to consider. Decor, wall construction type, concrete floor vs floorboards, the amount of windows, sofa positioning, etc etc. Currently loving my ATC SCM40a’s. The sound I’m getting is detailed, smooth, controlled bass, nice imaging. I just like everything about it. Would they sound better in a bigger room? Maybe yes, but I don’t see a valid reason to purposely live with low rent equipment just because my room is small.
  12. The Twenty.5 series is a decent step up from the older Twenty series. It is more than just the Laminair port thing. The drivers & magnets are also different. The are also no longer bi-wireable. The presentation is still lively, but the top end is cleaner as well as the bass end having more detail compared to the Twenty series. The Fact8 is a different speaker with a different sound to the Twenty5 series. I would guess that the Twenty5 26’s should do very well with your rock/female vocal taste in music. They are an easy load to drive so volume won’t be an issue. I found the Fact8’s to be drier in their sound, ( this was several years ago so maybe my opinion is a bit foggy) but on that basis, the Twenty5 range may be the better option.
  13. I've got;- AT Vibrating stylus cleaner. Used it for 20 years or so. Usually dry, very occasional with a tiny drop of Lyra SPT cleaner on it. Used with a variety of MC Carts, Linn, Lyra & AT. Never had any problems with it. Maybe Ive just been lucky. Linn Green paper. Again, used it for ages, no issues. Ortofon (I think) small little stylus brush. Probably the thing I use most frequently. It works. Small pot of VP gunk. Had it a few years, very rarely use it. Seems to do the trick though. Summing up, if someone was getting into vinyl replay & asked what best to use, I would suggest the small stylus brush eg the Ortofon one for use every LP or so, the AT637 (if you can find one at a sensible price) for use once a week or so, depending on the state of the vinyl. Lyra SPT fluid to be used occasionally & in tiny quantities.
  14. Updated to remove sold stuff & price drop for the remaining valves.
  15. If you’re buying from new at under £200, the Pro-Ject DS, or the new S2 would be well worth checking out. Remember that you’ll also have to have another rca cable from the phono stage to the amp, if you don’t have a spare one floating about.