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About rdale

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Personal Info

  • Location
    Gran Canaria, Spain
  • Real Name
    Richard Dale

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    SME V/Ort. 2M Black
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    EAT E-Glo Petit
  • Digital Source 1
    Chord 2Qute
  • DAC
    Chord Hugo
  • Integrated Amp
    Glow Amp One
  • My Speakers
    Klipsch RP600M
  • Headphones
    Audeze LCD-3
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. That sounds like bad advice to me. Why is thicker always best? I use Duelund cables which are thin but sound great with valve amplifiers, and don’t cost that much more than commodity Van Damme etc (compared with Nordost etc). I use DCA16GA with my 5 watt amp and Klipsch speakers. You can use DCA12GA when a more powerful amp is used. The DCA16GAs are about 10 pounds a meter from HiFi Collective, and so that is 40 pounds a meter for a stereo pair.
  2. rdale

    Subwoofer advice

    I recently installed a couple of Vicoustic Super Bass Extreme bass traps in the rear corner of my small living room, and subjectively they have made a worthwhile improvement. Lovely cherry wood finish which looks great at the side of my desk. I haven’t got my UMIK-1 here in Spain at the moment to be able to measure any differences in room modes. In my larger living room I’ve recently installed three GIK Tri-Traps at ceiling level on the front left hand side, and again they have made a very noticeable subjective difference but I haven’t had time to measure the difference. I should be able to do that this coming weekend, and I’ll post a report here with the REW measurements. Here is a picture of the Vicoustic Cherry bass traps:
  3. rdale

    Subwoofer advice

    If I found the bass response was uneven I’d spend my money on bass traps rather than subs, or at least bass traps before subs.
  4. Thanks for reviving this old thread. I’ve got a Pabst AC motor with QC with my Gyro too, and I hadn’t read this AC vs DC discussion before. Best to stick with it I think.
  5. rdale

    Subwoofer advice

    If you’re not sure how low your speakers go in your room, would it be a good idea to to measure your system in your room and find out? You need a UMIK-1 measuring microphone and REW to do that which don’t cost much, although the learning curve is quite steep to get it going and understand all the results.
  6. More taps allow you to implement a more accurate FIR filter at the expense of extra computation needed. I don’t think you need blind testing to confirm that.
  7. I don’t think you would add dither before doing signal processing. You would add it at the last stage if at all.
  8. I don't disagree with measuring a room which is supposed to be a good acoustic environment. I'm only saying you don't need REW to make a start, just good advice and your own ears.
  9. FFS everything I said when I corrected you about S/PDIF yesterday was correct.
  10. I would no more tune a room based on measurements than I would buy a speaker based on just measurements. REW won't tell you where the first points of reflection are, or even what are first points of reflection. You cant expect to acoustically treat a room without doing some reading and getting advice from companies like GIK. But rooms are not that different and a starting point doesn't require measurements, just following recommendations and listening.
  11. What would that tell you? It is useful for finding remaining bass problems when you've treated the room, but not when starting in my opinion. You'll just be blinded with incomprehensible graphs.
  12. I had a laugh for sure - mission accomplished! You don’t list you system in your Wam info, but it doesn’t look like a budget system to me. I think it is a myth that acoustic treatment needs to be ugly and expensive, as it can enhance the look of the room better the piled up cushions do and costing no more than people tend to spend on cables or other tweaks.
  13. You’re likely to have dead treble and boomy bass with that little lot I’m afraid. Of course the aesthetics are in the eye of the beholder...
  14. It sounds like you might have the wrong sort of HiFi system, they are not all the same. I have heard mega expensive systems at shows like Cranage Hall with huge amplifiers, cables thicker than hosepipes etc that I find pretty much unlistenable. Even if I had all the money in the world I wouldn’t want one of those constipated ‘trying too hard‘ systems. The sort of HiFi systems I like sound great with primitive recordings from the 20s to early 50s that I often listen to. As well as better recorded stuff of course. Modern shit compressed recordings with poor auto tuned singing do sound awful to me regardless of system though.
  15. 'Recovering the clock' means there is no clock. I was initially responding to people who were saying that toslink is just digital and there is nothing to go wrong. But there are plenty of variables if the source timing and the cable both matter as it says above, along with how well the receiver manages to recover the clocked data without too much jitter. I have no experience of Toslink, but I wouldn't be at all surprised if audiophile sources and audiophile cables sounded better than their cheapo equivalents.