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About rdale

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Personal Info

  • Location
    Gran Canaria, Spain
  • Real Name
    Richard Dale

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    SME V/Ort. 2M Black
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    Puresound P10
  • Digital Source 1
    Chord 2Qute
  • DAC
    Chord Hugo
  • Integrated Amp
    Glow Amp One
  • My Speakers
    Klipsch RP600M
  • Headphones
    Audeze LCD-3
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. The CEC TL2 N does according to this recent review: http://highfidelity.pl/@main-939&lang=en It seems to cost about 6000 euros though, but at least it shows that such a beast can exist.
  2. My Glow Amp One uses 2 x EL84s, plus 2 x 6N3 or equivalent. My last set of valves lasted seven years including the output valves, which is pretty amazing. I use EAT cool dampers on all the valves which probably helps to extend their lives.
  3. I don't use that setting as my pair are in a large room. I use mine with a pair of R400b subs with the default sub crossover setting which starts rolling off at 95 Hz for the LS50 and the subs come in fully at 80 Hz, and that really releases the dynamics in the LS50s although I don't think the actual tonal balance in the mid range or treble changes. That setup does sound like a big speaker system in terms of scale, dynamics and bass punch, and I would be really interested in comparing it with a big KEF passive speaker based system like the R series.
  4. I've got a pair of LS50 Wireless and they sound pretty neutral to me. But I think they are sensitive to the acoustics of the room they're in - maybe because they have a wide even dispersion and accurate phase response. That could explain why some people hear brightness and others don't. With the passives, they could be affected by the amplifier too as I think they are pretty demanding and that could also perhaps explain the brightness you found.
  5. I've got a measuring microphone and REW software that I know how to use them. But I don't think you need that to get started with the room treatement that you have in mind. I've only found room measurements useful for diagnosing room mode problems with the bass. Measurements don't help much in the range above 200 Hz in my opinion. Can you post a picture of your listening room? How well damped is it? Is it possible to put the panels with the wooden fronts in your picture on the side walls where the 'first points of reflection' are. You find out where the first points of reflection are by sitting in the listening position and getting someone to move a mirror around on the sidewall until you can see the tweeters. Can you put the bass traps upright in the corners behind the speakers. Then listen to the effect the changes have on the sound of you system - you don't need to measure because the improvement if there is one should be easy to hear.
  6. I've got a pair of LS50 wirelesses and I think they are better value than the passive LS50s because for the difference in price between the passives and actives you wouldn't be able to buy an amp to match the quality of the actives, and then on top of that you get a DAC and streamer for free with the wireless version. If you've already got a good quality amp or you get the passive LS50s second hand then of course that doesn't apply. But from a 'green field' no system starting point such as I had, then there is no contest IMHO.
  7. My living room is Spain where I am now is much smaller than my UK one and I have two Vicoustic Multifuser DC2 panels at the front and rear, along with a GIK Gotham 2d quadratic diffuser at the front as well. It does look more like a man cave that the bigger flat though and I'm not sure I would be able to get that past a non-HiFi partner if I had one. If you often search for acoustic treatment porn on PInterest like I do, you will find there are an awful lot of high end HiFi systems which have 2d diffusers at the front. I'm not sure if you could measure the effect with REW, but it is very clearly audible. Having said that, I still would have expected putting an absorber panel in front of the TV to have had some sort of audible effect. Maybe it is the kind of thing you have to listen to for a week and then remove to really gauge whether it had an effect.
  8. It will be interesting to hear if the new settee has different absorption properties - I'm not sure how raising or lowering the headrests would change the sound but it should be fun to try out. I am very keen on diffuser panels, but as Martin points out you do need to be a certain distance from them such as at least 1.5 - 2 metres away. I don't agree the diffusion is not likely to be a good option for typical UK living rooms, as long as you are far enough away. I think diffusion is most effective at the front centre, but both you and Martin have TVs there. Maybe a projection TV system is better where you could have a motorized projection screen coming down when you wanted to watch TV or a film would be better as in my opinion something highly reflective like a TV screen directly behind the speakers is going to help the stereo imaging.
  9. I use a Puresound P10 which sounds great. It is moving magnet only, but you can get a matching SUT for it. The problem I have with it is that the gain is a bit low even with a high output Ortofon 2M Black. I am thinking of getting an EAT e-Glo Petite soon as it has more gain for moving magnets and works with moving coils with a really wide range of adjustment for both types. The e-Glo has a JFET input stage and two valves in the output stage. The P10 with SUT is about 1000 pounds new, and the e-Glo Petite is about 1300 pounds.
  10. rdale


    Maybe sarcasm isn't always easy to spot?
  11. You're the only person I've ever come across who thinks the bass traps are least effective in room boundaries and corners. You don't need a quarter wave length of foam - the rock wool Tri-Traps with range limiters are effective down to about 50 Hz. I do measure my room before and after adding extra bass traps. When I added an extra bass trap to my Klipsch RP600M based system in a small to medium sized room, I posted the results in the 'Tech Corner' section of this site as ' and you commented on them. I was actually surprised that adding a single bass trap and moving it around could have a measurable effect, but it did. The speakers I have in a much larger room, that I have posted pictures of in this thread, are a pair of KEF LS50 wireless with a pair of KEF R400b sub woofers. They go down to 20 Hz and are flat to 60 Hz, but have a bump between 60-90 Hz because I have room modes at 57, 70 and 87 Hz currently I am expecting three more GIK Tri-Traps with range limiters at ceiling level to have some effect on those room modes.
  12. GIK Tri-Traps use rock wool, and they have an optional 'range limiter' membrane. And they do work - do you think GIK don't understand that you need to put them at room boundaries and corners for maximum effect?
  13. It is not 'almost impossible' to treat room modes, but it does involve installing a large number of bass traps, such as GIK Tri-Traps or similar. If you have three or four sub woofers and can individually EQ them and position them carefully as per Geddes' recommendations then that may work, but that could just as intrusive as simply adding bass traps. https://mehlau.net/audio/multisub_geddes/ Again I point out that the guy in the video said that EQ was best used for making level changes over wide frequency ranges after problems such as room modes were ameliorated with acoustic treatment.
  14. I’ve got a pair of those too and I think they’re great. But I don’t think you could actually put them on a bookshelf as they’ve got a large rear port, and need to be sited well out into the room.
  15. If you do ever go for ceiling panels I can recommend the company that fitted mine. I had eight 120 cm x 120 cm panels installed and they made the biggest difference to the sound in the room: https://www.soundreduction.co.uk/ But relative to the size of your room you’ve got a fair bit of treatment already and maybe it would be overkill.