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wizons last won the day on April 11 2012

wizons had the most liked content!

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About wizons

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Wigwam Info

  • Digital Source 1
  • Digital Source 2
    Sony XA5400ES
  • DAC
    Auralic Vega
  • Pre-Amp
  • Power Amp/s
    EC AW180
  • My Speakers
    Sonus Faber/Harbeth
  • Headphones
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. I've tried that is the past, but the sub's rca input is so sensitive that it is pushed too hard by the signal. The back of the sub gets really hot with this option, so attenuators are needed. Additionally, the sub's volume control almost certainly works better when it's turned up to about half way or more.
  2. Thanks for the reply. The source driving the TVC will connect to the TVC using balanced connections and the source has very low output impedance, so hopefully that will help things. I'm also hoping that the levels produced by the 909 won't drop in any discernable way as the sub has such sensitive inputs. I assume that's because the sub's internal amp means it draws very little current. Thanks for the reply - as you say, no harm can come if it. Hopefully it'll produce a more tightly controlled bass.
  3. My Windows 8.1 laptop is connected to an Auralic DAC via USB and I use JRiver to play ripped CDs and downloads etc. The laptop plays the BBC iPlayer perfectly well, but it won't play the iPlayer through the USB that connects to the DAC. What am I doing wrong? Is there a specific driver I need to connect to the DAC via USB when using the iPlayer? An old MacBook I have has no such problem in connecting the iPlayer to the DAC using an optical output. Thanks
  4. I'm using a Music First passive TVC preamp with a Quad 909 power amp, connected with RCA plugs. The Music First has two sets of unbalanced output sockets, one set of which is 'piggybacked' on the other, i.e., the two sets of outputs are essentially configured like a splitter. I'd like to connect my REL active sub using the preamp's second set of RCA outputs, which means the Music First will be driving the Quad 909 and the sub from what is basically a single output. To complicate things, the REL's RCA inputs have a very high sensitivity (I remember being told it is just 100mV), so I'd use -19dB RCA attenuators to connect to the sub, but not the 909. (Presumably the sub will draw very little voltage from the preamp's output.) Is this OK? As I understand it, attenuators reduce the impedance seen by the preamp, so I'm not sure what effect this would have on the preamp's ability to drive both the 909 and the preamp properly. Would the preamp see reduced input impedance for the 909 as well as the sub? I don't want to try this without advice as I know TVC passives can be fickle and not as robust as people imagine. I know that REL subs from the 2000s recommend connecting directly from the power amp's speaker sockets, but in the past the 909 occasionally struggled with this set up. On a handful of discs there were passages where the sub's speaker cone sounded as if it's excursion limit had been exceeded. I've used the same sub with much more powerful Electrocompaniet amps and there has been no such problem, so by-passing the 909 should hopefully solve this problem. Many thanks
  5. Thanks very much for your suggestions. See my above post for progress. I've just connected a back up USB hard drive and played some files from it, and the fault is present on the back up, which implies the cause is somewhere in the laptop and not the hard drive. I'll try re-installing the DAC's driver to see what happens. EDIT: updating the Auralic DAC driver seems to have cured the problem for both JRiver and Qobuz listening. Presumably a recent Windows iodate conflicted with the older driver. Many thanks for the suggestions πŸ‘
  6. I've tried some of the above suggestions and the clicking issue hasn't been resolved. The USB hard drive has been scented as suggested and no errors show up. Buffering sizes have been increased to the maximum in both JRiver and Qobuz, but to no effect. In a sense I'm relieved the error occurs on Qobuz as it implies the fault lies with the laptop or its software rather than the hard drive. When I play JRiver through my iPad (using the JRemote app) there is no problem, which hopefully implies something's wrong with the laptop and software. I'll try redownloading the DAC driver to see if that helps. I do have back up hard drives, but in the past when I've connected them JRiver has set about downloading the back up drive's library and failed to remove the master drive library, so two libraries (which doubles everything on the screen) are visible. Can anyone advise how to disable the hard drive library? A useful test will be to connect and play the back up drive; if the fault's still present then I assume the cause is on the laptop. Thanks for the advice so far.
  7. Sorry not to have responded to your replies. I've got a bit of time over the next few days and will do so.
  8. I use JRiver (version 20) and am having trouble with playback of ripped CDs. The CDs are ripped as FLAC files to a USB hard drive. The hard drive was pulled out off its shelf and knocked over (it's only a couple of inches from the floor, so it didn't have far to fall - the laptop and hard drive were off at the time) and since then when playing back there has been a click every give or so seconds, irrespective of the file being played. i suspect this is caused by physical damage to the hard drive's ability to read the disc, but would appreciate any advice on what can be done, if anything. I'm using Windows 8.1' which is hardly ideal. Thanks EDIT: playing CD quality tracks with Qobuz through the same laptop and listening via headphones connected directly to the laptop shows the same problem, which suggests something is wrong with the laptop rather then the hard drive (hopefully). Can anyone advise how I can attempt to solve this? πŸ‘
  9. Maybe I misunderstand how the extractors work, but by putting a 6 inch hole in the wall that is open to the elements via the ducting, surely there is heat loss? I'm sure it'll be fine. I've not had an extractor hood before, only recirculation, and am trying to ascertain any pitfalls. πŸ™‚
  10. I mean to say venting from the top of the unit and immediately at right angles through the wall. From what you say that would cause negligible heat loss. That sounds great but it mystifies me as to how that can be. Why should it cause less loss than the pipe passing into roof. I didn't know vents that can be shut when nit in use were available. Do you have any info? I didn't know about y-fittings that simulate a round 150mm vent. I thought that flat ducts 228mm wide can do this. I was thinking not so much about noise from the extractor fan passing through the ducting etc, but more about external noise entering the property through the vent and vice versa. CheersπŸ‘
  11. We're having an extractor hood fitted in our kitchen. If will be fitted to an outside wall, so venting is straightforward - there will be no long lengths of ducting pipe and the pipe can vent above the hood by passing to the outside at right angles just above the hood. Two concerns I have are: 1) diameter of the duct. The manufacturer (Neff) recommends a ducting pipe of 150mm diameter and states that round pipes are better in terms of allowing maximum airflow and reducing noise. However, our kitchen fitter plans to connect a short length of 150mm flat ducting to the round pipe, so the flat ducting will pass through the wall. The reason for this is that the point at which the pipe passes through the wall is very close to the line at which the external brick is pebble dashed. By using a flat duct he can fit the vent just beneath the pebbledash. However, won't reducing a 150mm diameter round pipe to a 150mm x 50mm flat pipe reduce airflow and add noise? Gut instinct tells me I'd rather the full 150mm round pipe be used throughout, even if it means passing the vent through pebble dash. It doesn't matter if it looks a bit ugly as the wall is on a side access path and can't be seen from the front or back of the house. Additionally, the cooker hood is a powerful Neff model and I don't want to compromise its performance. 2) Heat loss. Surely, if a 150mm pipe is vented to the outside directly above the hood there is significant heat loss in the room, not just when the extractor is being used, but also by virtue of being quite a large hole in an outside wall? The room is a combined kitchen-Lounge and will be our main living area, so we can't afford to lose too much heat. Is it the case that cooker hoods are designed in a way to reduce heat loss to acceptable levels, or is this always going to be a problem. Noise passing into and out of the property also strikes me as a potential issue, or is this not the case? Any thoughts would be welcome, particularly from warmers who know about these things. πŸ‘
  12. Can any electricians shed light on whether there is any advantage in connecting a 13A plug socket's earth to the earth connector in its metal mounting box, given that the socket is on an rcbo protected ring? This used to be standard practice, but as I understand things, it isn't needed with an rcbo. Might it offer additional protection?
  13. So Blue Tooth speakers aren't the way to go. Good ol' copper wire will have to suffice. The iPhone is a pretty decent audio device as it happens. I've said elsewhere that it runs my Auralic Vega Taurus DAC and Taurus headphone amp, as well as my Icon Audio HPII MkII 'phones amp, a close second when streaming 16 bit FLAC rips through JRiver and listening with Sennheiser HD 800S/650 or 600 'phones. Any differences are only apparent with close A to B listening. None of these combos can match full range speakers mind you, but I'm only looking for a basic kitchen system in this instance.
  14. Can Bluetooth speakers play music at genuine 16 bit resolution? I'm after a kitchen system (it doesn't need to be fine hi-fi per se) and interested in a couple of wireless Bluetooth speakers that would connect with my iPhone, through which I'd stream from Qobuz at 16 bit resolution. I wouldn't be surprised if Bluetooth speakers down sampled to 320kbps, which would defeat the purpose of subscribing to Qobuz. Can anyone shed light on this?
  15. Has anyone experience of LED bulbs blocking DAB or, dare I say it, causing audible degradation in hifi? This link follows a conversation on the issue: https://conversation.which.co.uk/technology/led-bulb-radio-interference-dab-test/ It's reported that the SMPS in LED transformers and individual GU10 bulbs generate significant RFI that can interfere with digital signals. What, if any, would the effect be of this on a traditional Wam-style 2 channel hifi. Having just fitted a kitchen complete with some 12 GU10 LEDs on a dimmer switch it would be worth knowing if I'm better off reverting to 20w halogen bulbs. Is this snake oil or science?