CONFIRMED DATES FOR SCALFORD - March 17th & 18th 2018


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About SergeAuckland

  • Rank
    Certified Measurist

Personal Info

  • Location
    Bury St Edmunds, UK
  • Real Name

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    EMT948, TRS9000, BD1
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    In turntables
  • Digital Source 1
  • Digital Source 2
    Meridian 206
  • DAC
    DEQ & DCX
  • Pre-Amp
    Meridian 501
  • Power Amp/s
    3 x Behringer A500
  • My Speakers
    Active B&W 801F
  • Headphones
    AKG K270 KOSS Pro4AA
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade
  1. Exactly. Loudspeakers out of phase are a killer for stereo (or mono!), but which channel of an amplifier you go through doesn't matter at all. S>
  2. Frankly, whether it's a C320 or 325, or even a 3020, it doesn't matter a lot, any of those will be perfectly decent amps if working properly. What matters most are the 'speakers, so that's where I would start, find a pair of 'speakers that firstly you like, and secondly work with your room, decor etc. The 320BEE is a VERY decent amplifier, offering 50W per channel continuous, but over 100 watts (160 into 4 ohms, 210 watts into 2 ohms) under dynamic conditions, so will drive pretty much any half-decent loudspeakers in a domestic situation. Quite good enough for a first system, and will only need upgrading if you either want to play VERY loud, or get some inefficient loudspeakers that present a difficult load (Apogee Scintillas?). That, or you want an amplifier that modifies the sound in a way you like as many valve amps do (especially SETs). As to the CD player, yes, perhaps of not much use these days, but it's always useful to have a CD player around when the streamer fails! Good luck with your quest, it'll be fun (I think!) S.
  3. No, it doesn't matter at all. It's just convention that normally the upper socket of a pair is the left, and the lower is the right. As long as the get the channels correct for left and right through the chain, from phono input to loudspeakers, as both channels are identical, there will be no phase error through the chain at all. It doesn't even matter if you go left-right-left through different pieces of kit as long as what starts as the left ends up as the left. (although you might get some strange effects when a balance control works backwards) but as far as sound quality goes, an amplifier is only labelled left or right for user convenience, the channels are identical. S.
  4. I can't find any information on the Creek SH21Se, but if you mean the OBH21SE, this has a pass-through, that'll be the best way, as there will be nothing to affect the sound. S.
  5. Easiest of all is a Y cable on the main output of the P10, going to both the A21 and the Creek. Just keep the A21 on, but with another source selected, when listening to headphones. You may not even need to keep the A21 on, it depends on whether the input selector of the A21 is buffered or purely passive. If purely passive, then there will be no difference whether the A21 is switched on or off. If that's too easy, then you'll need a separate buffered output on the P10, which can be as simple as a dual op-amp, but that's pretty much what the A21 already has on its tape output, so if that's not good enough, then a separate buffered output won't be either. S.
  6. Just cable in and cable out, and tell the SBT to use the wired connection. With a wired connection, no router password is needed as the assumption is that if one has physical access to the router at home, then you're not a hacker trying to get onto the network. S
  7. I don't see anything wrong with it, provided you make that clear to the dealer, and go there at their convenience or at least when they're quiet. After all, many dealers have trade-ins or special offers, so if you are better educated, you're more likely to become a customer if they treat you well. S
  8. In your music system at home, you're not connecting the Pi or the players to the internet, just to each other through your home router. You're only connecting to the internet if you are streaming from a music provider, like Spotify, or looking up lyrics etc. When playing your own music there's no need for an internet connection. That's the normal situation, although it's possible that your system is configured not to work unless it can find an internet connection, even though unnecessary. By having a router separate from the hotel's system, you're then effectively just connecting the Pi to the player. If you use a wired connection, you won't even need to set up a wireless route. Pretty much any old router will work, as the bandwidth requirement for audio is pretty trivial, but by having your own router, especially wired, you are then completely independent of the Hotel's system. You also can leave your home WiFi system intact. I would just try it at home. Get out your old router, connect the Pi and player to two of the ethernet ports and it should work, at least mine did with no messing about other than possibly telling the player which network to use. You might get messages saying there's no internet connection, but just ignore them. S.
  9. I stay in a fair few hotels, and whilst the connections may be OK for email and browsing, (although often aren't!), it's seldom good enough for streaming without a lot of buffering. In any event, if one is streaming audio from a computer to a player, why clog-up the hotel's bandwidth, when it's a trivial extra just to bring one's own router? S.
  10. Hotel internet connections are always flaky in my experience. I don't know specifically about the Harrogate Hotel, but for Scalford, I always bring an old router with me that I use to connect my laptop with all my music on it to the Squeezebox Touch player. It can be connected either wirelessly or with an ethernet connection, whichever's more convenient, as in the confines of a small room, there's no problem with WiFi from a router no more than a few metres away. I didn't exhibit at last Scalford, but lent a router to Geoff (Oldius) and it worked perfectly for him. S.
  11. Unless you want to go straight into active 'speakers, it makes complete sense to me to use the old NAD amp, which was a perfectly decent amplifier then, and is still perfectly decent if working properly. S
  12. You seemingly have ignored the basic premise that if there's a change in sound, that MUST mean there's a change in either the signal going to the loudspeakers, or the air pressure variations in the air going to your ears. Both of those are measurable. If there isn't such a difference, then the differences heard are what your brain is generating, not what's real in the air pressure variations. That of course can be different for every individual. S
  13. Just replaced my rear 'speakers with my Genelecs, so having an evening of Quadraphonics.
  14. Not so much faith, as a logical consequence. If something is a real effect, observable and verifiable by statistically valid blind testing, then that effect can only be the result of a change in the signal. That much I think is incontroversial, as a logical truth. Any change in the signal can be measured, to any arbitrary level of accuracy and precision. I think that too is incontroversial. Consequently, I don't see how there can be any question that if an effect is real and observable with statistical validity, that it then can't be measured. There may be some question as to the best way of measuring something, and there are always questions as to where thresholds of audibility come, but the basic principle that if a change is audible, it's measurable I can't see any flaw in that. The converse, that something that's measureable is audible is far from clear, as it dependson many factors. In summary, if it's audible it's measurable, if it's measurable it's not necessarily audible. S.
  15. ^ Very much this! S.