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About 9designs

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Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    LP12 2 off
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    EKOS SE/ Kandid
  • SUT / Phono Stage
  • Digital Source 1
  • Digital Source 2
  • Integrated Amp
  • Pre-Amp
    Klimax Kontrol
  • Power Amp/s
    Solos, 2250D, 5125
  • My Speakers
    FACT8, SL6si,
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. I vote Radikal as well, with free Karousel fitted.... Later add a Kore and pick up a nice used later serial number Ekos.
  2. Still waiting to read about all the design issues you think need fixing with the deck and arm compared.
  3. Is that what you call a debate? Sorry but I see no evidence, or data or even examples of any of your claims. If your such an expert on the matter, then what is wrong with the table or the Ekos/SE or the combinations that can't be fitted. Everything you have said has been cryptic and claim based with no substance. As an engineer I like fact and data, so detail what is wrong and so holding back the sound performance of the Linn. If you're going to make a claim, back it up with data.
  4. CJ, Cymbiosis stock and accessories is always advertised on their website, which looks still active to me. You appear to be trying to take cheap pointless shots at them, which in these times is pretty dumb. From my perspective it's counter productive to your own business.
  5. Going to be controversial now, while I'm not familiar with the new Majik arm or a OC9 cart, I am with the rest. Seems like a Majik+ level deck trying to compete with Linn's second best ever sounding DS ? My own 2nd LP12, Cirkus, Lingo1, Ekos2, Adikt doesn't get close (Hence my recent posts on various options) to my ADSM/K and is very pressing dependant on well it does. While my Klimax LP12 still generally sees off my KDS/1/D, think I will need Karousel and Katalyst to keep the balance. To compete with my ADSM I'm expecting to need go Radikal, Core. Ekos2 and Krystal. So barring some unpacking and setting up issues maybe it's more an expectation issue? or system mismatch, perhaps an OC9 isn't good with active Ninka? What is the deck sitting on? How close to the speakers?
  6. Using mine in MM mode at present, no issues. On leaving the shop I guess it was partly dissembled and packed, so you need to logically walk thorough all the steps you went through once unpacking to ensure you set it back up again okay. Ie adding the counter, weight, balancing, adding playing weight..... Actually plugged into the Ph socket not the adjacent line in?
  7. Not sure it's keeping me healthy, but time is allowing me to work on my LP12 redesign project ....... Additions to the plinth, new top plate, motor mount, base board and sub chassis. Though Karousel currently wouldn't be compatible, so I may have to reverse some of my "improvements" to accommodate it. A rowing machine currently in the upstairs music room is the attempt to health and fitness.
  8. It's been like it from "new", it was an exdem arm from Cymbiosis. Yes if you go slow enough it will do like you say, too quick with the lever and it will not lower the arm. The original Ekos on my other deck is simply a better made arm. Unbranded scales, off ebay, made in China. When I looked many looked the same whether they were branded or not, so probably all came from the same factory. Has it's own calibration weight, seems to work fine.
  9. Seems with the later Ekos/SE (Longer head shell, maybe others) You need scales at home, as I don't see any other way after transporting the deck how to get the tracking weight accurate. To get it home you needed to have removed the counter weight for transport, so now you have to start again the set up when home. TBH I'm pretty disappointed with the arm and it's "quality" The anti skate won't come completely off, so you can't static balance the arm, making tracking weight setting impossible without scales. I preset the TF dial to what I want then with scales tune the counter weight to match the value on the dial. The actual weight and dial are then all aligned. Also the lift lower devise is poor compared to the original Ekos arm, if you lower the lever too quick the damper sticks in the up position. The original arm you could lower it fully and let the damping gently lower it for you.
  10. Yep that's what I bought many many years ago when they came out ..... It's still going strong and no wear.
  11. Every seems to forget a cirkus upgrade wasn’t just a bearing upgrade, it was a sub chassis + bearing. I would suggest the chassis was a bigger part in the change in sound.
  12. Has anyone demo’d the Karousel yet? As we not had a bearing only upgrade before don’t know how people can claim how big the improvement will be verse other upgrades.
  13. PSU is more important than the chassis, did the Keel and Radikal demo years ago, I did Radikal first.... elimination the source of the issue rather than trying to brace or filter it out.
  14. I wouldn’t be so sure, a cirkus level bearing has been great for years, it’s not suddenly crap. A Lingo 4 will reduce the source of vibration, I’d want a demo to understand how much improvement each can give on that level of deck. Personal i’ll only fit a Karousel to my full spec deck. My second deck I also have Lingo1, plan to improve the power supply first.
  15. @sunbeamgls I feel I will have to try some sort of Exakt one day. maybe for speakers I'll build myself. Perhaps a Katalyst upgrade will qualify me for a free Karousel ...... hmmmmm As an engineer the "advantage" of Exakt approach does appeal to me, that said recent experience with high end crossover components from Jenzen has shown how much more can be achieved with better parts in a passive system.