uzzy

Wammer
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Everything posted by uzzy

  1. Damn I forgot to bring the 506 and 206 no longer working they could have stuck those on display (I couldn't they ended up in recycling as they were irrepairable) .. moaned to them as to why they did not use standard pc roms - readily available and slot one in slot one out - but hey ho. It was nice to see the M1s again - I remember when they came out - Bob Stewart brought a pair into Guildford Hifi - plugged em in and they sounded off - he rolled his sleeves up and got inside to sort out a wiring mishap to get them going properly .. still think they are probably the best active Speakers Meridian have made to date (ducks quick with hard hat from stone throwing disagree ers) Was a good room and as the Flash said - nice to hear the old reel to reels going.
  2. What he said - although you could add mass to the headshell if you try a MC - I would suggest you audition the Ortofon Blue or better and the offerings from Audio Technica (to name but two - the Goldrings are very good too) to find what your ears like the best. All of these ranges will show the Shure cartridges a clean pair of heals IMO Also Shure have stopped making cartridges so you are on OEM stylus replacement which can be a bit hit and miss depending on which you get (you tend to get what you pay for)
  3. Well the best thing about the show was meeting up with the Flash and a few others. Of all the rooms I went in I have to say I enjoyed the Kerr Loudspeakers - the little Kerr 300s were sounding really sweet - if I needed a small pair of speakers for a small room they would be up on my choices to evaluate at home . Next door was the Kerr 320 a nice slim floor stander which showed off their transmission line design well - stomach smacking bass - left me wishing they had the 100s at the show (a three way transmision line with a volt bass driver that should really get down to those lower octaves). Reasonably priced considering one reviewer said of their range "Your old scribe suspects that Kerr would shift a lot more units if they tripled the price and added some bling" TNT review Chord annoyed me - they were demonstrating cables (going up the range) but did not stick with the same track throughout) - but hey ho cables are a very personal thing. Nothing really got my blood racing but it was enjoyable (if a tad small as shows go). Nice enough venue (though not as good as Whittlebury used to be) although it would seem they need to sort the sewage at the bottom end of the car park - it was honking more than an old pair of crappy loudspeakers.
  4. All i would say is get yer arse round a lot of dealers, visit a load of shows, contact Wammers and go listen to their systems and build up a knowledge of hifi systems. Read a lot of hifi magazines. Do google searches on recommendations and reviews. Do all of this to gain knowledge Armed with that knowledge you will be in a better position to understand exactly what you want your hifi to sound like and what appeals to you. The sad thing is there is not the plethora of HIFI shops we had in the 70s and 80s which meant you had a decent hifi shop on your doorstep to go listen and glean advice. Ask in here and you will get dozens of differing replies (well we know what we like and that is what people will recommend to you BUT your ears may tell you something different). By getting out and listening to lots you will be able to decide what type of sound and presentation you like best and then hopefully buy the kit that satisfies what your ears want to hear
  5. Easy Dram 15 inch silvers (natural upgrade from my Impressions) Systemdek reference TT custome made jobby to take two arm boards (so I can mount two arms) I would get Audio Origami to make me a 12 inch PE7 with a damping paddle for my Decca Super Gold A London Jubilee Cartridge (and maybe a Kondo MC as well) I would get an old Audio Research SP14 preamp Probably a Nagra amp - but there again it is a lottery win so I might just commission Tim de Paravicini to make me a special Although and Ongaku integrated might be the order of the day with the GE1 phono preamp and the CFz MC transformer. CD player would be a tough one - probably from the DaVinci camp Streamer - god only knows I am a streaming virgin and still prefer to load a cd or put on an LP Interconnects and speaker cables - Kondo Silver ones That will do for starters anyway
  6. Started with QED 70 strand in the 70s. Moved to Monster but they got lost in the move so loudspeaker. Tried a whole host of speaker cables over the years and settled on the now late Maplin 500+ strands of OFC copper. Personal observation - the lesser the strands the less the bass (so the mids and tops seemed clearer but it was an illusion due to being able to better focus on it with the lack of bass). Interconnects .. moved to Sonic Link Lilac coloured (they sounded best of all the cables I tried when i was just finishing at Guildford Hifi) for the CD player (until the dog chewed them). Tried different leads on the removable headshell on my Audio Technica 1010 - ended up with little silver litz thingiies. Experimented with different interconnects (including some silver ones I bought from a guy on here years ago. Now use home made cables from the best microphone cable I could find at the time I made em. I miss Maplin they did fabulous phono plugs where the outer case tightened on the cable sheathing when you did it up (had to use pliers to get them flush to the Phono body) and decided that was my lot - unless I hear a system at a show or another persons house that reveals summat I think is missing in my system nowt gets changed now. If I win the lottery I might treat myself to Kondo solid silver interconnects and speaker cables - but until then
  7. uzzy

    Test CD ?

    I have come across a cd that has a seperate track for each audio band - from 20 hertz to I think 30khz .. in looking for it I have come across the following which may be of interest .. there are loads more but I got bored http://www.diamondcut.com/Catalog/DCATDetails.htm http://realtraps.com/test-cd.htm https://www.soundonsound.com/techniques/creating-test-cd http://www.soundoctor.com/testcd/
  8. uzzy

    cd cleaning / repair

    The thing to remember is depending on the abrasion this should be done very sparingly - but if in doubt and want to get someone else to do it, every CEX store provides the service https://www.help.game.co.uk/hc/en-gb/articles/115000481233-What-is-Disc-Repair For more on this have a read here .. https://www.lifewire.com/best-cd-repair-kits-4159771
  9. If you want speed change rather than go down the hercules or valhalla or lingo route IMO go for the Heed or other such add on. I use a Project Speedbox Strobo .. also the Project Speed Box DS https://www.project-audio.com/en/product/speed-box-ds/ .. you just plug your original Linn into the rear plug socket and do speed change from the box. I got a DS second hand for about £100 as a spare so keep your eyes peeled on ebay. The Heed seems really good and the company does not seem to introduce then stop making models all the time as Project do. Although to my ears I could not detect any difference in sound quality (ducks quick from the bricks lobbed by those who think differently). If you do not play 45s then put speed change boxes or boards on the back burner until you have perhaps upgraded the arm and cartridge. Have fun and enjoy
  10. well we agree to disagree on that one - if you are incapable of moving three bolts a fraction up or down then I guess yes - leave it to a professional. Otherwise it has to be worth having a try yourself - just take care not to lower the platter so much it scrapes the top plate - hence for an amateur on first try put a tee towel or cardboard on the top plate and use some masking tape to stick it down (that should ensure you do not do any damage if you set it too low) if you set it too high then the belt may slip off the subplatter. You want to leave sufficient space for the turntable to be able to bounce easily without fouling the top plate .. Once set it can stay ok for years - so chances are it is not far off where it should be at the moment (if at all) .. all it may need is some very fine tuning to ensure all is level. Usually changing the set up is due to arm changes or such like - or an occasional tweek as the springs compress with age.
  11. I worked in the trade in the 70s - anyone with a dab hand at using a screwdriver and spanner - and understands what they want to achieve can do the set up . We had no special teaching or training but I guess we were used to setting up Thorens TD150s and often had to tweek so we got experience. In this wonderful digital age there is You Tube - where you can get a host of videos showing you exactly what needs to be done and how to do it. I would recommend watching the videos if you are unsure of what to do and then decide "can I do that?" and if you can then no need to take it anywhere. If you cannot then yes take it to a recommended person to set it up for you. To set the levels yourself you will need a couple of small spirit levels (one for each side of the platter to ensure it is balanced because the weight of one will place weight on one side and tip the scales so to speak) or if you can find one get a turntable spirit level with two levels built into a plastic holder that slots over the spindle (I purchased in WH Smiths in the 70s - we were more enlightened then lol). With two spirit levels first do them top and bottom of the turntable parallel with the front to ensure it is all level then do the same with them parallel to the sides of the plinth to ensure it is level in that plane too. Check out You Tube for Linn Set up videos (here is the first of a six video set ) Fir those who are wondering what the hell a turntable spirit level looks like - here is mine .. if you can tackle the set up yourself that will give you £200 towards say a new cartridge etc.
  12. When working in a shop, in the mid 70s we stocked Visonic Loudspeakers (very small and not bad for the kitchen or conservatory) one model was called DAVID and they did a sticker for advertising saying "Biggest isn't always best - try David for size" .. so I popped that on the back window of my Mini .. and am pleased to say quite a few ladies were inquisitive and asked me if I might like to prove it. Unfortunately for me, being married, I could not take them up on the matter I do keep my eyes on ebay to see if a pair comes up second hand as I would like a pair for the kitchen now. Some information if anyone is interested https://www.lpgear.com/product/DAVID5001i.html
  13. uzzy

    cd cleaning / repair

    Provided a scratch has not penetrated through to the metal film (with the 1s an 0s) they can be polished out. I use T Cut (metallic paint which is not as abrasive) and or Brasso to remove small surface scratches. If it is a stubborn surface scratch CEX and gaming shops offer a polishing surface which has a heavier duty cutting compound to give a lustrous surface (but of course this can only be done once or twice so make sure you do not scratch them again after). If you use Music Magpie (which I often do) if you get an unplayable/unrepairable one they usually refund without asking for a return (or replace if they have another in stock).
  14. You are right - the AR was the first - the design - which was modified by others. Thanks for pointing that out it is totally relevant in the suspended subchassis history.. Here is the original AR one
  15. I do smile when he hear the word designed - when in most cases it is a modification of the design - the Heybrook was probably the closest to the Thorens TD150 out of all the later suspended subchassis turntables. Mind you the original Linn was Hamish (ariston) taking a TD150 as a starting point and doing a more substantial subchassis and platter system. Mind you the TD160 came out in 72 (the same year as the original Ariston RD11) with the more substantial subchassis which had a better more rigid arm mount than the 150 with a long arm board. Anyway here is the TD150 subchassis if you are interested
  16. uzzy

    £1000 challenge

    I on the other hand wouldn't. Get the system you like the sound of best and then when installed at a later date (having done all the trial positions for speakers and where you sit) see if there are any annoyances and then consider room treatment when you have saved a few more pennies.
  17. It should have read Heybrook (not Harbeth) Turntable TT2 and the first ones may have had an open plinth (like the Thorens and Linn) but the later ones were like this
  18. In which case check the bias control (the plastic belt used to adjust the bias breaks with age) .. other than that see how you get on with it ..
  19. The Thorens TD150 is a suspended subchassis so it is virtually impossible to do a solid plinth. Harbeth with their turntable used a skeletal subchassis which allowed them to make a solid plinth with it carved out for the subchassis to float. Some people have turned their Thorens (usually TD150s) into non suspended on a solid plinth. This is in the minority though as of course there are those who feel the suspended type provides much better insulation from vibrations etc. I do not wish to enter an argument as to which is better - whatever floats your boat does ir for me ..
  20. Might be worth mentioning the you tube videos to the place you take it .. has to be useful in understanding the beast they are looking at (they probably do it anyway but still worth a mention just in case).
  21. Well as they say - most of the time your amp is only working at a few watts but it is the headroom needed for uncompressed dynamics that is the problem - with 2000 kw that solves that certainly solves that problem. What is the affect in practice - well I remember many years back Peter Marshall at a Hammersmith Show using some Swiss Amp (the name escapes me but they are still in business) that was 700 watts a side on his Profile Model 11 loudspeakers. He used to play very loud and all was well - until someone put on Telarc's 1812 to play - the Canon shots wrecked the bass driver in one speaker (actually split the cone of the Volt bass driver). I guess that is when the ability to give the transient power necessary was a bad thing I guess with an amp like this your worry moves from "will I burn out the tweeters because I might run into clipping" to "will my bass drivers survive a high transient Kick drum or bass organ solo" ? Of course in all likelihood if you listen at less than deafening volumes all should be fine
  22. uzzy

    Devialet vs Naim

    Nope, I asked did you audition using the line stages at all and if you had then I doubt the view would be different but I did say the only way you would find out is to audition. As it turns out you only used Analogue sources to audition the first time and so you do not know how the line stage performed. As such with the updates in their phono stage and their newer version of ADH it may be an entirely different beast and so - to find out you have to audition. Having said that I do believe my comments about analysing the performance of the Leban and noting what you like and do not like would be an aid to determining any future change. Keep us posted with your findings when you get to audition and make a decision.
  23. Nice piece of woodwork - I wonder if the lack of corner bracing might be an issue in later years (wasn't thinking sound wise was thinking more of the corners coming apart later in life). There is a chap on ebay who makes Acrylic lids that would finish it off a treat
  24. uzzy

    Devialet vs Naim

    When the Naim gear came out to be frank it was no frills great sound compared to what was available at the time. The world moved on and Naim did the Linn marketing job of constant upgrades to try and lock people in. Of course one of the big advantages is they are still in business and it is possible to get them all serviced and kept up to scratch (barring the CD players where phillips stopped making some of the laser mechanisms used). There is always the possibility with other makes of having problems later in life (for example the Hitachi Mosfets used by a number of amps in the 70s and 80s are no longer available and using so called equivalents does not always work. The Naim is system dependent and still relevant today, as presentation is one of personal taste and many people like the presentation provided by a Naim. I am not one of those people but I think it is a tad unfair to write it off as just a bygone era. You have an excellent amp with the Leben and as you said - when you tried the Devaliet some years back it did not sound right to your ears. So it now has a fabulous phono stage but did you do all that listening when you evaluated it on the phono stage or did you use line sources as well? If you didn't like it playing CDs then - chances are you are not going to like it now. As for vinyl replay - only a test can tell but if it did not sound right on the line stage their is a distinct possibility it will still not sound right to you on phono. All this of course is conjecture and only an audition would provide the answers for you. Perhaps it is just me being a tight git - but I would work out what is there about the Leben you like and what you don't like. From that standpoint you can then start to make informed choices of whether to change and what to change to. if the sound of your Leben is ticking all your boxes personal view is to then just consider a separate streamer (unless space is a real issue). Let us know how you get on.