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About uzzy

  • Rank
  • Birthday 07/06/1951

Personal Info

  • Location
    Northampton, UK

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Systemdek IV
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Mission / Decca Gold
  • Digital Source 1
    Marantz CD6004
  • Digital Source 2
    HB Burnit Pro
  • DAC
    Cambridge DACMagic2
  • Pre-Amp
    AR SP9
  • Power Amp/s
    Hafler DH200
  • My Speakers
    Art Impression
  • Headphones
    Audio Technical ATH 911
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

3,244 profile views
  1. When working in a shop, in the mid 70s we stocked Visonic Loudspeakers (very small and not bad for the kitchen or conservatory) one model was called DAVID and they did a sticker for advertising saying "Biggest isn't always best - try David for size" .. so I popped that on the back window of my Mini .. and am pleased to say quite a few ladies were inquisitive and asked me if I might like to prove it. Unfortunately for me, being married, I could not take them up on the matter I do keep my eyes on ebay to see if a pair comes up second hand as I would like a pair for the kitchen now. Some information if anyone is interested
  2. uzzy

    cd cleaning / repair

    Provided a scratch has not penetrated through to the metal film (with the 1s an 0s) they can be polished out. I use T Cut (metallic paint which is not as abrasive) and or Brasso to remove small surface scratches. If it is a stubborn surface scratch CEX and gaming shops offer a polishing surface which has a heavier duty cutting compound to give a lustrous surface (but of course this can only be done once or twice so make sure you do not scratch them again after). If you use Music Magpie (which I often do) if you get an unplayable/unrepairable one they usually refund without asking for a return (or replace if they have another in stock).
  3. You are right - the AR was the first - the design - which was modified by others. Thanks for pointing that out it is totally relevant in the suspended subchassis history.. Here is the original AR one
  4. I do smile when he hear the word designed - when in most cases it is a modification of the design - the Heybrook was probably the closest to the Thorens TD150 out of all the later suspended subchassis turntables. Mind you the original Linn was Hamish (ariston) taking a TD150 as a starting point and doing a more substantial subchassis and platter system. Mind you the TD160 came out in 72 (the same year as the original Ariston RD11) with the more substantial subchassis which had a better more rigid arm mount than the 150 with a long arm board. Anyway here is the TD150 subchassis if you are interested
  5. uzzy

    £1000 challenge

    I on the other hand wouldn't. Get the system you like the sound of best and then when installed at a later date (having done all the trial positions for speakers and where you sit) see if there are any annoyances and then consider room treatment when you have saved a few more pennies.
  6. It should have read Heybrook (not Harbeth) Turntable TT2 and the first ones may have had an open plinth (like the Thorens and Linn) but the later ones were like this
  7. In which case check the bias control (the plastic belt used to adjust the bias breaks with age) .. other than that see how you get on with it ..
  8. The Thorens TD150 is a suspended subchassis so it is virtually impossible to do a solid plinth. Harbeth with their turntable used a skeletal subchassis which allowed them to make a solid plinth with it carved out for the subchassis to float. Some people have turned their Thorens (usually TD150s) into non suspended on a solid plinth. This is in the minority though as of course there are those who feel the suspended type provides much better insulation from vibrations etc. I do not wish to enter an argument as to which is better - whatever floats your boat does ir for me ..
  9. Might be worth mentioning the you tube videos to the place you take it .. has to be useful in understanding the beast they are looking at (they probably do it anyway but still worth a mention just in case).
  10. Well as they say - most of the time your amp is only working at a few watts but it is the headroom needed for uncompressed dynamics that is the problem - with 2000 kw that solves that certainly solves that problem. What is the affect in practice - well I remember many years back Peter Marshall at a Hammersmith Show using some Swiss Amp (the name escapes me but they are still in business) that was 700 watts a side on his Profile Model 11 loudspeakers. He used to play very loud and all was well - until someone put on Telarc's 1812 to play - the Canon shots wrecked the bass driver in one speaker (actually split the cone of the Volt bass driver). I guess that is when the ability to give the transient power necessary was a bad thing I guess with an amp like this your worry moves from "will I burn out the tweeters because I might run into clipping" to "will my bass drivers survive a high transient Kick drum or bass organ solo" ? Of course in all likelihood if you listen at less than deafening volumes all should be fine
  11. uzzy

    Devialet vs Naim

    Nope, I asked did you audition using the line stages at all and if you had then I doubt the view would be different but I did say the only way you would find out is to audition. As it turns out you only used Analogue sources to audition the first time and so you do not know how the line stage performed. As such with the updates in their phono stage and their newer version of ADH it may be an entirely different beast and so - to find out you have to audition. Having said that I do believe my comments about analysing the performance of the Leban and noting what you like and do not like would be an aid to determining any future change. Keep us posted with your findings when you get to audition and make a decision.
  12. Nice piece of woodwork - I wonder if the lack of corner bracing might be an issue in later years (wasn't thinking sound wise was thinking more of the corners coming apart later in life). There is a chap on ebay who makes Acrylic lids that would finish it off a treat
  13. uzzy

    Devialet vs Naim

    When the Naim gear came out to be frank it was no frills great sound compared to what was available at the time. The world moved on and Naim did the Linn marketing job of constant upgrades to try and lock people in. Of course one of the big advantages is they are still in business and it is possible to get them all serviced and kept up to scratch (barring the CD players where phillips stopped making some of the laser mechanisms used). There is always the possibility with other makes of having problems later in life (for example the Hitachi Mosfets used by a number of amps in the 70s and 80s are no longer available and using so called equivalents does not always work. The Naim is system dependent and still relevant today, as presentation is one of personal taste and many people like the presentation provided by a Naim. I am not one of those people but I think it is a tad unfair to write it off as just a bygone era. You have an excellent amp with the Leben and as you said - when you tried the Devaliet some years back it did not sound right to your ears. So it now has a fabulous phono stage but did you do all that listening when you evaluated it on the phono stage or did you use line sources as well? If you didn't like it playing CDs then - chances are you are not going to like it now. As for vinyl replay - only a test can tell but if it did not sound right on the line stage their is a distinct possibility it will still not sound right to you on phono. All this of course is conjecture and only an audition would provide the answers for you. Perhaps it is just me being a tight git - but I would work out what is there about the Leben you like and what you don't like. From that standpoint you can then start to make informed choices of whether to change and what to change to. if the sound of your Leben is ticking all your boxes personal view is to then just consider a separate streamer (unless space is a real issue). Let us know how you get on.
  14. Looks to be a fiddly job - I love this video though with the chap using a suction cup (provided with some of the bulbs these days to enable you to get them out of a shielded housing) or you could use the suction cup that comes on bathroom fittings, Also a couple of guitar plectrums to lift the battery out (clever idea as being not metalic less chance of causing damage) and some pointy tweezers (the ones I have for my vaping diy with ceramic tips would be just the job). Have a look at the video as provided you take a bit of care even being ham fisted should not prove an obstacle (for most) .. there is a video for most of the models If you take it to your local computer repair man he will be used to all the fiddle and tell him the link above to get the videos on what needs to be done - provided you can source a replacement battery they should do it for you are very reasonable cost.