Strider

Wammer
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Strider last won the day on June 26 2016

Strider had the most liked content!

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About Strider

  • Rank
    Nothing to see here
  • Birthday 18/09/1965

Personal Info

  • Location
    somewhere or other
  • Real Name
    Mark

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Long gone
  • Digital Source 1
    RPi 3 and MoOde
  • Digital Source 2
    RPi 2 and whatever
  • DAC
    Audiophonics Kali
  • Integrated Amp
    Primare I30
  • My Speakers
    Proac studio140 mkll
  • Headphones
    AKG 550 REF
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. Back on track: What makes me squeemish is accidentally picking up one of my housemates toothbrush, applying toothpaste and realising that as the bristles are millimetres from touching your teeth you realisethat the brush isn't yours.... That leaves me shuddering for hours.
  2. I've a thing for a redheaded vixen. My wife is a strawberry blonde, my previous girlfriend was a true redhead with amazing corkscrew hair and the lady before her? Yep, you guessed the hair colour.. All of them said they'd been picked on and derided just because of their hair colour. I don't condone any form of violence and the 'ginger' posts are not to be taken too seriously as they are tongue in cheek and no malice was intended.
  3. Me thinks you're taking this a little to seriously, the 'humour' of this post has sailed right over your head.😋 Kudos to your boy but watch he doesn't become the bully and use his martial arts to the chargrin of his tutor's. I'm sure you'll persuade him in its better turning the other cheek rather than beating people up......
  4. My Mrs is a strawberry blonde, all manner of colours from deep gold to pale blonde. If either of my sons were gingers they would have been left on the steps of an orphanage.
  5. My Rega Planar 3 resistor went up the swanne years ago and the pitch would keep shifting, Rega replaced it and serviced the whole deck free of charge as I'd owned from new. You can do it yourself if you can use a soldering iron, it's a big sausage resistor that dumps voltage/current to the motor. Just had a thought, check if the motor mount is just right, there are two screws on the top of the plinth either side of the motor, these shouldn't be tight or far too lose. The motor hangs from a typical Rega belt and wobbles about, the screws just about stop the motor from dropping out of the plinth. If the motor doesn't sit just right the pulley belt twists and causes wow/pitch instability. If you give the motor pulley a little dab it should bounce a little and wobbles, look from the side of the plinth to make sure the pulley is horizontal and not tilted or this creates the issue above. Lastly, give the pulley wheel up a little firmly, twice my pulley wheel had to be super glued to the motor spindle! Looks like I've been pipped to the post! I was also going to mention the hub bearing! If I remember it's something like 5.5mm, can't remember where I got mine from, cleaned out the shaft, new oil, job was a guddun.
  6. It's in the final mix and mastering that screws up all the engineers hard work all in the name of 'louder' music for portable devices an radio. Who need dynamic range when it's cooking your eardrums at 80db whilst listening to Beyonce? 😝
  7. Now you've said s third time..😁
  8. Real hifi is a matter of perspective, my neighbor proclaims his £300 80's Technics stack is better than anything, ever. He loves it and I certainly wouldn't either judge, question or demean his equipment. He thinks I'm mental for paying the money I've splashed out on my very modest set up but he does keep popping round and overstaying by his requests for more music as he is "blown away by the sound quality." His system to my ears is thin, reedy, totally lacks dynamics or anything approaching a bass line but to him it's the dogs spuds but he is proud and it is the last word in "high-fidelity." Both can be considered as hi-fi as that's the term given to any audio equipment.
  9. Strider

    SUB bench

    Hi gentlemen, many thanks for your help and advice! to answer the most simple part first, I was getting quite loud hum following the usual and documented connection using the hi-level (speaker) setup. REL suggested using the chassis ground as often the speaker outputs don't share a speaker negative with chassis ground, once I connected the black wire to the chassis ground the hum immediately ceased. @MF 1000 This is theoretically my second preferred option, left speaker output for left sub, right speaker output for right sub, the only issue is ultimate eq as the subs will be in different areas of the room. My only concern is level matching and getting eq right between the channels/subs. @MartinC By using the - speaker terminaI was getting loud hum (please see above) but rectified the issue. @rabski This sounds like I understood the manual, currently I'm using a single sub connected as per REL manual (apart from the chassis ground). Red goes to speaker RH +, black goes to speaker RH - and yellow goes to speaker LH + (on the amp. Now, If I wire the 2nd sub using the same connection as the first it'll be mono. Quote: "For stereo, I'd just leave off the yellow completely, so for RH sub connect red to RH speaker + and black to RH speaker -. For the LH sub, connect red to LH speaker + and black to LH speaker." Unquote, Again this is exactly how I understood the stereo configuration, the other useful info was about twisting red and yellow together in a stereo setup might increase gain so only use either red or yellow. my only concern is the faffing about trying to get a smooth response and crossover between the subs. @MartinC i haven't tried the low-level inputs yet but it's an idea. I'm much more inclined to use the hi-level inputs as this is by far the recommended method from REL/MJAcoustics etc. Quote: "You may well already know this but I'll just mention that running both subs with the same mono signal opens up greater potential for benefit from a dual sub arrangement. You can then use setups like one sub in a corner and one in the middle of a sidewall, such that in combination they give a more even bass response, both at the main listening position and elsewhere. Is your room roughly rectangular? If it is I'd suggest downloading Room EQ Wizard and then using it's Room Simulator to experiment with the effect of different combinations of sub positions. Note that this simulation is only valid for both subs being fed the same signal, and that what you select in terms of time alignment will change the results." Unquote,. This also makes complete sense as both subs receive exactly the same time and theoretically created one big subwoofer albeit in different positions. EQ and roll off should be easier too. I will have a fiddle to see how things pan out and which is the preferred method, I like both scenarios but would like to keep things harmonious plus make it a less painful experiment. I will be using my Phonic PAA3 to assist with room eq so at least I can have an idea of where the peaks and nulls are in the room prior to and including the dual subs. Massive thanks to you all and I'll let you know how it pans out and if there are tears... Cheers Mark
  10. Strider

    SUB bench

    Hmm, My amplifier is a Primare I30 dual mono throughout. I use an REL Strata iii subwoofer using the speaker outputs to hi-level (speakon) connector to the sub. Currently the sub is wired as directed by REL: LEFT + Speaker terminal = Red wire. RIGHT+ speaker terminal = Yellow wire... Black to chassis GND . Now to the slightly more complicated part, I want to add a second sub (just for an experiment) but I'm a little confused, there is of course a couple of ways to implement two sub woofers to one amplifier, either dual mono or stereo. Looking online doesn't really answer my questions. If I wired up both subs in 'mono' do I just connect the second sub in the same config as the first essentially doubling up the cables? 2 X Red to R/H+, 2 x Yellow to L/H + and 2 x Black to GND? Now, lets make things really interesting! If I wanted to run the subs as a stereo pair, how the heck do I do that? For the LEFT spkr output I twist RED and YELLOW together for +, BLACK for chassis GND... For the RIGHT spkr output , the cabling will be the same as the left arrangement. (If the output gain is too high due to having the by combining red and yellow I'll only use the red.) Thanks in advance, Mark
  11. Touching other people's remote controls, keyboards, mouse etc. So many foul secretions have been mashed into the buttons, it's said that what doesn't kill you makes you stronger, or makes me want to wear a hazmat suit before I even think of using your germ encrusted gadgets. 😩