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About Gaffer

  • Rank
  • Birthday Private

Personal Info

  • Location
    South Blighty

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    PrJct 2Xprc/ SpdbxS
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    PrJct 9c/Ortfn MC15
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    PrJct PhnBx DS+
  • Digital Source 1
    Naim CD5si
  • Digital Source 2
    Technics ST-3500
  • DAC
    Arcam irDAC
  • Integrated Amp
    PrimaLuna Prologue 2
  • Pre-Amp
    DSPeaker 8033
  • Power Amp/s
    BKElec XLS200
  • My Speakers
    Tannoy Prstge Trnbry
  • Headphones
    Lots and Lots
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

562 profile views
  1. Gaffer

    CD Alive and Well?

    The one benefit of them going out is it means my local poundshop can sell tons of them for £1 each (they are originally from musicmagpie I think - I've bought >50 over the past few weeks). Seriously though, I could easily buy a storage system like a Naim Uniti Atom, add a 1TB SSD, rip bit-perfect copies and then have everything in a media library, but I deliberately haven't as I've noticed a change in my habits depending on how I listen: In the car/itunes/iphone portable/spotify etc etc I find myself spending more time skipping tracks or looking for something specific than actually listening. For instance, waiting for a train, play a playlist on random but I'll still skip quite a lot till I get to what I want. Or on the way home, half my 20min journey might be me either impatiently skipping forward or scrolling through long lists to get to what I want. Playing CD OTOH - I simply choose the album and play. I spend more time listening (and are more likely to listen to a whole album) than skipping. I also love the idea of physically owning the media (rather than owning some ethereal "rights" to listen to it). So I for one am firmly in the CD camp but see that whole industry going the way of the dodo within 10yrs (especially with major retailers like HMV dying out along the way).
  2. Gaffer

    Electricity conundrum

    I will, you're right, but I was hoping I would be able to fix something simple first ...
  3. Gaffer

    Electricity conundrum

    The Scene: ^^^ Here is a picture of my main fusebox. As you can see, the kitchen's other sockets (i.e. not cooker) are run off a 32A fuse. The upstairs lights and alarm are run off the 6A fuse next to it. Both of these are "protected"? by a 63A capable RCD. The problem: At some point overnight, when my Smeg FQ60NPE fridge freezer is presumably doing some Eco-Mode thingy (although I can't be sure), the RCD trips. This results in the kitchen and new (extension) room sockets (amongst others) not working and the house alarm then starts beeping as it has detected a power failure. Note, the fuses themselves (the 6A and 32A ones supplying these circuits) do NOT trip and remain "up". Only the RCD trips. My attempts at isolating the cause: So I plug my fridge into the socket next to it in the Kitchen - overnight same thing happens.....hmmm, is it the fridge? I then plug the fridge into a socket across the room but still in the kitchen via an extension lead......No RCD trip overnight, so it can't be the fridge as it behaves itself when plugged in elsewhere. It's also can't be an unusual issue with the kitchen's 32A fuse as plugging into the kitchen elsewhere is fine. Plus, it can't be the RCD itself because if that were the case, it would keep tripping regardless of where I plugged the fridge in. So it's not the fridge and not the RCD.....what about the sockets? Plugging an LED night-light into the socket the fridge used to be in and it's fine. Maybe it needs a higher current device for the problem to manifest? So I plug my 3kW kettle into that socket and it's fine - no RCD or fuse the socket appears to be OK. The wiring to the socket must also be OK if it can cope with 3000W without anything tripping Now I thought an RCD effectively compares/looks for L-N leakage and then trips (i.e. any discrepancy between L and N would mean current flowing through E which could be dangerous, so it trips), but after figuring out that the sockets, their wiring, the fridge/freezer and the RCD itself all appear to be functioning correctly, what could possibly be the issue? I'm not an electrician but was hoping it was something simple that wouldn't involve hundreds of pounds to mend. Anyone have any ideas?
  4. Gaffer

    Jokes, old or new

    Man goes to his GP for an illness and the GP says to him: "In order to diagnose you I'll need a sample of your urine, faeces, pus, lymph, CSF, blood, saliva, sweat, mucous and semen" . . . . . he gives him a pair of his underpants..........
  5. Gaffer

    Record cleaners

    Well I only got mine 3 months ago so I doubt anything's has changed - their poor build quality is balanced out by the good cleaning.
  6. Gaffer

    Speaker cable user review thread

    Exactly my point, anything simple should be adequate for the length (e.g. >16AWG if 10ft) - no need to spend thousands on super duper "boutique" names and no need to buy anything special especially when the equipment manufacturers themselves don't do so (again all imho).
  7. Gaffer

    Record cleaners

    I got a Pro-Ject VC-S mkII recently. My review of it is here:
  8. Gaffer

    Speaker cable user review thread

    First system had QED79 strand which was great. Then gave speakers and wire away so needed new cable to go with my new speakers - Chord Co Carnival did a good job. Then I bi-wired which to me made a definite improvement (although I realise I had to see what I was doing so it definitely wasn't double blind and might all be placebo). Somewhere in between I've also used simple mains cable which also worked well as well as other types. Conversely every time I haven't used a cable I haven't heard a damned thing so yes, IME cables do make a difference As a minimum I simply use: slightly better than recommended gauge (e.g. for a 10ft length use 16AWG wire or better) use as short runs as possible (I tend to use equal lengths per side but don't think unequal lengths of a foot or so difference either side would make an audible difference actually) the terminations to amp and speaker simply need to have the largest surface area available so if you can achieve this using the bare ends, great, or you might want £2 spade/banana connectors, great - spending 100's of £ for heavier/shinier/fancier connectors won't add anything that a basic connector gives IME rather than spend £500 on cabling, I can find similar (usually differently branded/off eBay) spec for £100 and then spend the £400 on music (all my speaker cabling including connectors and sleeving came to a total of <£100) I believe the signal out of the amp, if thought of as 100% "true", needs to get to the speaker - the closer to 100% the better. i.e. a cable can only ever degrade this signal so the best cable simply has LCR that does nothing to degrade the sounds (i.e. sounds transparent) - or put another way a cable that "sounds bright" is simply degrading the bass, one that "sounds dull" is simply degrading the treble - cables can't "add" anything to a system despite what hi-fi mags say. The wiring inside the amp and the wiring inside the speaker, even if they cost thousands and thousands of pounds, is usually in the order of pence - I bare this in mind when buying speaker cable. Of course all IMHO
  9. Gaffer

    Nice new bluetooth speaker for you party people :D

    Looks like something you'd've bought from Argos in the early 90s.........
  10. Gaffer

    Over-priced Hi-Fi Kit

    I think prices are rising astronomically as the market is shrinking. Most folk nowadays are quite happy to listen to itunes mp3s at 128kbps via market stall £1 headphones, then come home and stream to their new TV and listen via their TV speakers. To them this is perfectly acceptable and they have no need to look for more expensive kit. Similarly most of us driving around in Honda's/Ford's have no interest in saving up over 20yrs for a much more expensive luxury car (i.e. if you're not an audiophile, you may be happy with Bose/Sonos, if you're not a petrolhead you may be happy with Dacia/Ssangyong). This is all fine, but it means that the "audiophile hifi" market is MUCH smaller than it was 30yrs ago and I think prices have gone up over and above simple inflation in order to compensate. To give a simple example; as a "reward" for getting good A-Levels and going to uni, I had £650 with which to buy my first "hi-fi". Using this money I purchased 2 source components (Tape & CD), an integrated amp and a pair of speakers, plus 3 sets of interconnects (2 for tape in&out and one for CD) and the speaker cables (about 3m each side from memory) plus speaker stands (and I had many decent established brands for all these to choose from). Even taking inflation into account that's fairly difficult to do nowadays without resorting to either getting stuff from eBay by "wing-cha audio" or something or going to richer sounds and being forced to pick the cheapest kit you can.......actually having choice and the ability to get slightly better than entry level kit puts the price points too high and this will only worsen as the market continues to shrink. Today, building a system via the second hand route is much easier so I would say that all hifi has pretty much become extremely expensive as time goes on. Needless to say, nowadays I tend to buy most of my kit 2nd hand or shop-display etc - the rrp's are simply getting too ridiculous imo (I have a similar view on cars - you loose a crap-ton of money as soon as you drive off the forecourt so I mainly buy 2nd hand (the only time I bought new was when I had to as part of the govt scrappage scheme - traded in a £400 car for £2000 ))
  11. Gaffer

    Can anyone with a 'dedicated' listening room ...

    1st hifi area = hifi was a "reward" for getting into Uni so that spent my uni life with me in my various rooms/dorms over 6 yrs 2nd = work accommodation in the "lounge" area 3rd = at home in sitting room 4th = in my flat, in the lounge/dining room 5th = sitting room @ home again 6th = packed away for a few years 7th = the FIRST time I've ever had a semi-dedicated room (semi- because it's shared with the gym equipment) which is perfect because: a) no one else really listens to music/my music b) other half prefers TV (soaps n'things) which I don't really watch c) room can get locked to keep it away from prying baby's fingers d) perfect to spend an hour or two listening without disturbing others a few times a week I don't ferret myself away for days on end like some mad scientist and it doesn't really serve as a "lads room" as it has nothing else in it (no TV/PC/games console/pool table etc) ^^^^ this setup simply allows me to occasionally listen to and enjoy music without disturbing others (or episodes of First Dates ).....
  12. Gaffer

    What's yer bits'n'bobs?

    Here's my latest bits'n'bobs (now that the final unit arrived): The biggest effect is the removal of 4 off-the-shelf wall warts that came supplied with some of the kit: Top one is 12V up to 2A supplying the DSPeaker (even though it apparently only needs 0.1A) The middle one is either 12V with ~2A using 2 outputs or using just one output giving 12V up to ~4A (which is how I'm using it to supply the irDAC requiring 1.5A) The bottom one is dual 18V with ~1.4A each output supplying my SpeedBox S and PhonoBox DS+ (both of which need 0.5A each).
  13. Gaffer

    Pro-ject Phono Box S, set up?

    Sorry - I swear I had more smilies in that post than that (just reread it and my post might come off a tad rude :-( ) I blame Tapatalk - no decent icon integration imho Btw the reason I’m using Tapatalk is I only have my iPad/iPhone on me ‘cos I’m here: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Gaffer

    Pro-ject Phono Box S, set up?

    Yes I know mine is different - because I own a DS+. I also know it’s all set via buttons rather than dip switches - because I own a DS+ . That’s why I specifically mentioned “your manual” before posting a picture of the ACTUAL PhonoBox S manual that the OP has (you might want to reread it if you missed it)...... ......those dip switch positions are those from the OPs user manual and are the values recommended for his given cart Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Gaffer

    Pro-ject Phono Box S, set up?

    According to my Phono Box DS+ manual, Gain of 40db is "standard" for MM, or 43dB is "standard" for High Output MC, 60db or 63dB is used for Low Output MC carts. Here is the relevant page from your manual: Your capacitance is recommended for 100-200pF so I would set that at 100pF (within range) and change to 200pF to experiment. as mentioned, your load impedance should be set at 47000 Ohms - which is all those resistance switches set to off So for example (U=up/on, D=dpwn/off): 40db Gain + 47kOhm Impedance + 100pF Capacitance would give you: UDU DDD DD 123 456 78 OR 40db Gain + 47kOhm Impedance + 200pF Capacitance would give you: UDU DDD UD 123 456 78 EDIT: Bloody 'ell - 10 replies in the time it took me to type that up