Dik Dolan

Wammer
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About Dik Dolan

Personal Info

  • Location
    United Kingdom

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    SME20/2
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    SME iv Lyra Dorian
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    World Designs phono3
  • Pre-Amp
    World Designs pre3
  • Power Amp/s
    Glasshouse 300bsep
  • My Speakers
    Yamaha NS1000m

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Model Kits

    I suppose this counts as "The start" Lav7 by dik_dolan, on Flickr A few bits are now glued, and the sprue goo filler applied in a few spots. Even some provisional sanding has occurred. No paint yet.... that might be a while. The bits inside the wheels, hubs, brakes etc are just being test fitted. Lav9 by dik_dolan, on Flickr This is my first try at making and using "sprue goo" as a filler, as used and recommended by the chaps on the ISM live shows and many forums. Take an old, maybe 3/4 used jar of Tamiya Extra Thin (TET) glue and drop a load of cut up pieces of old plastic sprue in. stir and leave to turn into goo (a few hours, maybe overnight). Add more sprue or glue to achieve the desired thickness, and just brush or dab onto the bits that need filling. So far so easy. It's been applied to the front mudguard brackets, and a couple of spots on the wheels and forks so far. Once it's dried I'll find out how much it shrinks and how easy it is to sand. Hopefully easier to use than the old almost dried up tube of squadron filler I have.
  2. Model Kits

    Me too=) There are still a few spots left on one of the sprues, so that will be left overnight to finish off. My plan is to use Alclad polished aluminium, chrome and maybe steel on some of the bits. Tamiya gunmetal and others for the rest. I do have a Molotow chrome pen refill that's supposed to be a good "chrome" paint too, but I've not tried that yet.... maybe on a few bits here is a good time. I've test fitted a couple of the parts now- a wheel, brake drum, part of a front fork and front mudguard. So far they look a bit rough. Lots of poor mould marks and a distinct lack of mounting alignment tabs (compared to say a Tamiya kit). For example to make one of the front fork lower sections, you join two halves together.... but there are no locating pins at all. just butt both halves together and eyeball it to make sure they are on straight and true. The part numbers for the forks in the instructions didn't match the sprue numbers either, so that might get interesting. They are also pretty rough and will need a lot of sanding and filling and sanding I think. I'll know more tomorrow when I finally get to glue some of it up!
  3. Model Kits

    That is wonderful Ross! Well done mate, I'm sure your mom is going to love it=) My bits are still bathing, maybe 90-95% done now so hopefully will be clear sometime later today and I can actually start on the kit.
  4. Model Kits

    I haven't tried that, but I think the effect would be minimal really. It's just down to the plating being so damn thick that it takes ages for the caustic or bleach to dissolve it all. I just checked on the sprues that are currently having a soak and once again one side is completely clear, but the other (thicker?) side is only maybe 40% clear.
  5. Model Kits

    Haha man thank you for the laugh! I needed that... this kit is pissing me off and I haven't even started it properly yet=)
  6. Model Kits

    Man I don't know what's going on with the chrome on this kit. The 2nd wheel also took about 36 hours to strip. So I decided to just dunk every chrome sprue into a bath of caustic. Sod doing each piece as and when, it would take months! Well, one large plastic tub, 3 full sprues of parts.... and one sprue just clears of chrome almost instantly. The other two have been soaking for hours and are barely touched so far. I guess these two have the 36 hour special.... Lav6 test by dik_dolan, on Flickr
  7. Model Kits

    I should add that I'm wearing rubber gloves and eye protection, and working in the sink, to contain any spills should any occur. This stuff is not to be taken lightly. Lots of ventilation too!
  8. Model Kits

    The caustic soda arrived this morning. Nicely done posty! I've just mixed up a small test sample. Approx 1/2 of a 30ml shot glass of caustic soda into 300ml (a mug full) of water into a plastic container, in the sink. Another snipped off piece of sprue is now having a nice bath. 30 minutes in and maybe 40% of the plating has gone. So far so good=) Edit to add: Another hour in, and one side is pretty much clear, but the other side still looks maybe 90% covered in "chrome" still. It looks like it's deposited much thicker on one side. I've added another 15ml of caustic soda to the mix so it's now approx. 10% caustic. See if that speeds things up on the thicker plating.
  9. Model Kits

    Heh yup, well it could do with a good clean....
  10. Model Kits

    Cheers, yup I'd seen that while google-fuing. Says it's main ingredient is caustic soda, so I thought might as well just get caustic soda then I can make as much of it at whatever strength I need etc. He's doing a lovely job of that Merc too!
  11. Model Kits

    I hadn't. hmm maybe that would be plan D=) I really hope plan C (caustic soda) works though, because: A: I've just spent £7 on a kilo of the stuff. B: Plans A and B take too long. C: I've had another look in the box and the exhaust pipes are also chromed, so they will have seams running the full length and look crap if I can't sand/fill and paint em. Who knows how many other bits will be like that too...
  12. Model Kits

    I gave up on the bleach and moved the first test piece into the drain cleaner tub yesterday. Both pieces are now fully clear. It took over 36 hours to strip 'em, so for this particular kit bleach didn't really work, and the drain cleaner I have does, but it's slow. It's doable but i'll wait for the caustic to arrive and see how that goes before I crack on with the kit. I guess I could make a start on the engine or frame or something but I just don't feel like diving in until I've at least tried the plan C chromey strippy dippy method.
  13. Model Kits

    Should be fine.... I only need to drop the parts into a small tub of the stuff, let em soak, then rinse with water. That's the plan anyway. I'll be starting with very dilute concentration, then strengthening it if needed. Lots of ventilation and I will be wearing rubber gloves and eye protection, maybe even my leather jacket if it looks scary. It's basically the same stuff that's in drain and oven cleaner, but I'll be able to make it to the strength that will do the job, and without the gel and perfume additives that's in the crappy stuff I had under my sink=)
  14. Model Kits

    After 18 or so hours the bleach soak has removed maybe 65% of the plating, and the drain cleaner maybe 90%. Not exactly quick progress. I've ordered some caustic soda from an ebay seller and I'll give that a try when it turns up next week. Lav5 test by dik_dolan, on Flickr
  15. Model Kits

    Hmm, I could try that as you say, just to see, but it would still leave the cut off sections showing. I think I'd much prefer removing the plating altogether and trying my luck with Alclad aluminium paint. So far the bleach has removed maybe 40% of the chrome. I'll leave it soaking overnight. I also found a bottle of drain cleaner under the sink that has caustic soda listed in the ingredients, but according to a modelling forum I read, a couple of guys there say the drain cleaner I have isn't very effective- too weak. I've cut another section of the chrome sprue and put it to soak in some anyway. That's had an hour or so and it doesn't seem to have done much yet. Another overnight soak there then. If both these fail, I'll get some caustic soda granules so I can mix up different strengths. But that will have to be via ebay or something and will take a good few days, so hopefully one of the 2 experiments above will do the trick. As always, Will Pattison has it covered..