Monkey Wrench

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About Monkey Wrench

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    I am in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. For each speaker... Remove rubber trim ring around bass driver - use a credit card or plastic spatula to move it away from the wood veneer and then pull away. It has a flange which fits into a rebate in the cabinet. Avoid screwdrivers - you may mark the veneer. On earlier 109 the grille and trim ring come away as one. On later 109 they can be separated more easily. Remove bass driver - I think they are held in with torx bolts. The drive units need to be levered out and will usually resist. It may be easier to get a thin driver into a vacated torx bolt hole and lift upwards rather than trying to lever at the edge of the driver. There should be a thin foam gasket between the unit and the cabinet. Now you should have enough length on the bass driver’s cable to balance it on the cabinet or a pile of books. Better still, get a friend to hold it. Remove internal wadding. You will see the lower half of the crossover and two white wiring connecting blocks on the board. Swap them over - be patient - they are a pain to get off... Replace wadding, bass driver - nip the bolts tight but only til they stop turning plus a bit more - and rubber trim. Link the three positive terminals and link the three negative terminals. This returns the speaker to passive single-wired use. If you’re not comfortable with the above then pop into a decent retailer and get them to do the work.
  2. Can’t be certain from distance. Hopefully something simple like the cartridge which is easily replaced. Would only be able to tell by swapping arm and cartridge out. Let us know what Infidelity find.
  3. OK - when you pull the mains there is no power to the motor’s circuit board. When you connect the mains the board powers up. The on-off switch merely connects the motor to the board. It doesn’t cut power to the circuit board. It would seem you are picking up some interference from the circuit board and the cartridge/tonearm. It may well be an earthing issue but what it is I can’t precisely diagnose from distance. I think a quick trip to Hampton Wick is the next step. See if they can replicate the fault and substitute a couple of components to isolate it. Let me know if you need more.
  4. You say you get the noise just rotating the platter by hand. I assume the mains cable is attached? Disconnect it and try rotating by hand again - fault or no fault?
  5. No problem. If the arm cable is disconnected from the deck and the fault is still there then it would suggest the problem is in the arm cable.... Did you have a deck connected before without any problems? If you did it points back to the Axis arm cable. If you didn’t and it is the first time you have used your amp’s phono input then I would need to eliminate that! The arm cable is easy to replace - pop it out from the tone arm, release the plastic clamp on the rear underside of the plinth - two x head screws. Refitting is the reverse. The arm cable on the Axis is Linn’s original offering. Most Linn dealers should have one lying around in the back of the shop. You can put on a more recent version but cost will increase. Re earth tag - yes - strip it back to fresh copper and get a secure fixing to the earth terminal.
  6. Just clarify - no fault noise when arm is at rest - you only get the fault noise when the platter is rotating? Is it coming from both speakers? Yes - the start up noise is quite normal. Clean the belt with some alcohol, and the motor pulley and inner platter drive surface. May lessen the noise, it may not but unimportant anyway. Is it worth dropping the deck into Infidelity in Hampton Wick and letting Simon’s guys give it a once over? If the fault is in the deck’s power supply, for example, your options become very limited very quickly. .
  7. A couple of quick checks. With the arm in the rest and the volume turned up high are you getting any humming through your loudspeakers? You should just hear a continuous hissing. Turn the volume down. Try pulling the arm cable plug out of the arm pillar. It will feel tight but will pull away. Use the handle of a spoon if you need more leverage. Increase the volume. If the problem is before the arm cable then you will have no fault noise through the speakers. Yes, the inner platter should be fully removed or raised and supported by a small book or similar when transported. The transit screw is less critical. It will stop the top plate moving around but the Axis suspension is pretty stiff so it’s not the end of the world. They frequently get lost and forgotten. Pull the inner platter out. Is there oil? Is the bearing tip damaged? Find a picture on the web of an LP12 or Axis bearing - the design is identical - and compare. Damaged bearing tips are quite rare and usually result from years of running without oil. They are obviously flattened when you look at them. Where in the world are you?
  8. The only person on this thread throwing insults out is you.
  9. It’s not a power tool. It’s a highly precise device recalibrated twice daily. It’s not putting car wheel nuts on. And I was there many, many more times you were.
  10. Sounds obvious but whether you go with Paul’s recommendation or stay with the link plates ensure the screw caps are nice and tight to get both a decent mechanical and electrical connection
  11. Thanks ACS. The filming was edited and only shows some build stages. The initial tightening is by compressor which gives a fixed equal setting for each arm when first assembled after which fine adjustment is then made.