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About rob4diy

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  1. hi - wonder if i can get a few tips here.... note; audio visual is low priority for me, so not looking for perfection i am using a chromebook to access occasional tv and videos - have linked sound to audio system via usb and into dac. there is a little latency in the sound... i am thinking of getting a screen of some sort to run visual side separately via HDMI out some thoughts - will there magically be some latency here too that might (more closely) match the latency of the sound? will the sound likely be more in sync if i run the sound via the screen (presuming screens actually have a usb out??) i am really an audio guy, and am not very fussed tbh about this visual side, though some knowledge about the issues and potential solutions would be great - who knows there might be some magic parameter or something to add latency to the visual... thinking in terms of a larger computer screen for visual for closer positioning, easy put away in a cupboard (and that can also be used as a computer screen!) Thanks in advance Rob
  2. thanks - i was suprised (and delighted!) that RS do free postage on small items, so have gone with one of their silver contacts to try - guess doubling up on poles per wire would also improve contact and reliability...
  3. Hi - those car type mini toggle switches that proliferate sure are a bit hit and miss... hifi collective sell a larger one that looks great though is a lot of money. anyone got a source of a step up in quality? - thinking about the potential existence of swtiches that cost about £5 and hopefully are significantly more reliable than the ones that cost £2! on/off or on/on 6 pin is the most useful config, though I am just after a general pointer rather than a specific use. RS seem to have a range - anyone with any experience here? (or elswhere?)
  4. Hi - I have just repaired some cat damage to a 8'' speaker rubber ring/surround. (small holes) Repair seems good, and have done similar in past so I thought I'd share. I used some proper speaker repair glue, though perhaps fabric glue would work. Essentailly I used the glue to fill the hole and also used a very small patch (3-4mm) of thin cotton on the back to patch it - I have used pva soaked paper before on a smaller driver (current one is an 8''). The idea is a thin but flexible patch is preferable to a hole, or a butt-ended repair that will possibly fail (particularly in a sealed box)- there are various methods posted here and there, though all the patch methods i have seen invloive bike tyres - far too thick imo. OK - I have changed the compliance a little bit at that point, it's not perfect and had it been a more expensive driver replacing the whole ring and its opposite is really the only 'proper' job.
  5. p.s. i do have a rode nt5 mic and logic which maybe could be used a rough measurement device...
  6. hi martin - yes, no phase correction at present - very much a temporary set up though it does sound as though its working... hence the 'upgrade' to using dsp as some sort of processing, that i had hoped covered all the bases that a £1k sub would have, and therefore be a 'solution'... i might now start experimenting with some test tones at the crossover point to see if there are any audible drop outs (with synthesizer) my mains are also run from 2v source using 7.5k attenuation - i believe some dsp models have a lower output however e.g. .9v for the cheaper minidsp range bobovox - dayton say 3v! - the info is there on their site, though not on all the specs lists - i believe this retailed for $249 and it is on some sort of offer at the moment - confirms that as the mrp ..
  7. thank you for your suggestions, and yes there is a lot of information to re-read as well as your other post. which is opening up a whole new area. (phase adjustment-i was suggesting that this might achieve some degree of phase correction being the only supplied method on a number of subs, to which you have answered, time delay is the only real solution.). At the moment, I am not sure i will get to the very bottom of this, though am trying to take on board what you say - you are obvioulsy extremely knowledgeable, and i apprciate your help.
  8. hi - yes have run mains without crossover with passive. running some test tones there are definately a couple of spikes, though don't seem to be any drastic drop outs - (synth recorded on logic). its in a rear corner now just behind mains thoughts - perhaps i should now experiment with some test tones in the 40-80hz band and see if there are any drop outs - i can experiment with delay as i have some studio gear - i note a lot of quite expensive subs like rel just have the phase ajustment... - if the subs dont seem settled in front of speakers than the extra delay might be superflous? - looks like the 2x4HD might be worthy of serious consideration...
  9. hi (yes 30cm, the '' was the end of the quote mark though put 2!) OK the plan is to run the dsp to the sub alone and use as the low pass xover (with high pass protection). my current passive crossover for the sub will be disguarded sub will need tuning using the eq. in addition; I am now considering moving the sub in front of the mains with delay (mains will remain unconnected to dsp)
  10. dsp for xover, no filter for mains
  11. thanks for further thoughts - i will study your post later - looks v interesting the mains sound very good and i will not mess with those and keep direct. bringing the sub in front would be the solution for any timing issue - not that i can hear any, possibly as i am crossing at 40hz - the mains go down quite low (8' TL). the subs are for low orchestral sounds mainly, and given the wide placement of an orchestra i think there is a certain amount i can get away with with this music (particlularly if its 2 ms or something - e.g. a double bass section would line upover 7 mtrs or so anyway...) however the dsp would give me the option to tweek this, and you have certainly highlighted this element. so are you saying at a low xover freq a longer delay might be required? the sub is a 'home brew' sub scanspeak 30'' discovery in a big cab 90ltr (thats another story...) down facing. this might be modified with the matching passive in addition to the madisound reccomendation. its been in use for a year in a cobbled together temporary fashion with a passive xover which is time to sort out, along with some room resonances. i have advice and plans for this element and am focussing on line level eq and LP/HP as a first stage.
  12. thanks for your reply martin; (rega CD - nc400x2 passive (ucd400 sub) - diy ellam flex btw.) sub is positioned just behind mains at the mo - would i be thinking i would only really need delay if it was closer to listening position? the extra resolution on the HD seems a bit OTT if only used with sub...? maybe this leads to thinking about re-position, and note 8ms gives me about 2 1/2 metres - you bring up a valid point for future flexibility, though think the 2 1/2 mtrs will always be in my ball park. (the sub is set quite low and are really there for low orchestral stuff)
  13. wonder whether anyone has knowledge / experience of mini dsp vs dayton 408 with particlular regard to quality i am getting one of these essentailly to be a sub pre amp/processor; stereo in to mono sum driving a ucd400(already in place) in a ''audiophile'' 2.1 system dsp 2x4 balanced has the advantage of the balanced bit dayton; setting up via app is certainly useful, and i think the software looks clearer to use i will be setting up by ear btw - have keyboard to help (can play various bass tones and attenuate boomy ones, and i think i have identified one problem freq) though i guess the potential of the mic thing is useful for the future i would need the dayton to provide a good 2v max line out level (not in specs - i am asking them...?) thanks in advance for any insight
  14. hi - this area seems full of variables i simply don't understand. i want to get 2 channel audio off my chromebook (have hdmi+usb out) to either an optical or coax digital input. (i have rejected wireless, and a wire is not an issue) a reccomendation of a cheap device (c.£20?) would be really helpful. the confusing bit is whether most devices are going to surround or 2.1 or something odd - just need 2 channel. its for general sound - spotify/AV thanks
  15. Hi - i have quite a revealing hifi system NC400+Ellam flex 3W(diy). CD is my main source and will remain so for serious listening. Q; for A/V, convienence, and occasional exploratory listening from spotify; is the addition of bluetooth a disaster as far as sound quality is concerned, or given the source (chromebook utube spotify at el) will the gains made by connecting more directly be minimal? Q; regarding direct connection to dac from a chromebook or computer; my dac only has optical or coax spdif options. is there much quaility loss using a usb to optical convertor? i note there are also hdmi to audio coax devices readiliy available - does anyone have experience of the quality vs these two, or any other thoughts regarding a possible later more serious connection of computer to dac? ( am thinking of a chinese audioengine copy)