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Mr Kipling

Newbie Wammer
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About Mr Kipling

  • Rank
    New Wammer

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Elite Rock
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Rega RB300/G 1042
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    ?
  • Digital Source 1
    Technics SL-P1200
  • Power Amp/s
    Audioromy 813A
  • My Speakers
    Arcam 2s
  • Headphones
    Sennheiser HD424s
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

109 profile views
  1. Just wondered if people have a preference, and if so, why that might be? Having no real experience of valves myself, I haven't an opinion. I have read of people preferring valve rectifiers because of the way they function. I think in one of his videos Steve Guttenburgh mentions some DAC maker using a valve rectifier on account of it's effect on sound quality. I have a Chinese valve amplifier that uses a valve rectifier just as a soft start diodes for converting to DC. Going to try it with the recifier as a rectifier and wondering if it will effect sound quality. Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  2. Just a thought. What about using two springs at each corner with a threaded shaft running through the centre and with the platform placed between the two sets of springs? The tension could then be adjusted from above like adjusting the tappets on a car engine. Think I might give it a go myself! Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  3. Mr Kipling

    Valve info

    Thanks. I'll have to give it some thought. Yes. I know the regulator couldn't be used. I meant to ask if you had seen it when you mentioned a preamp build previously. Yes; I've read the thread you mention. I'm getting too old for numerous builds. I want someone to say: "This is what you want. It's the best thing ever!!!" Perhaps a knackered Audio Research SP8 will show up. I keep looking! I'm aware of the hazards. I need a better meter than I have, which is why I haven't looked at it powered up. Anyway, thanks for your help. Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  4. Mr Kipling

    Valve info

    I meant to draw it when I had the board out. I did take a number of photos and I think it's how is on the board. As I said before, there was some activity when I was pulling the power lead out to power it down. But there's nothing now. I think the same circuit is used in the FU29 amp. Wonder if their more recent amps, including the 805 one, still use it? Starting from scratch, how should the rectifier be connected to act as a rectifier with no center-tapped transformer? Thanks for the regulator link. I do actually have it in my watch list. You mention a preamp. Have you seen this: http://ebay.co.uk/itm/132831650130 I'm looking to build a one and only preamp, but I can't decide. Curious about a clone of the German D Kilmo Preamp. Just found this site. Seems interesting: http://angelfire.com/electronic/funwithtbes/index.html Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  5. Mr Kipling

    Valve info

    Thanks for the input from everyone. The relay just seems to switch the transformer primary. And it's not working. It is the best amp I've had - not that that's saying a great deal. As such, I'd like to try and get the best out of it. Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  6. Mr Kipling

    Valve info

    Sorry. I missed a 8,200uF cap off. Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  7. This has quite a solid feel about it and rated for 40000 operations. The ones I got were CPC stock. 5 left. Oh, £4.77 incl. postage. http://ebay.co.uk/itm/282280854671 Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  8. Mr Kipling

    Valve info

    Well, I secured the volume pot and the left hand channel is ok now. The wiper was a bit noisy but after a number of turns back and forth it's quiet now. Switched connections to the led and it's working. Not a huge fan of blue LEDs but it's small and a deepish shade and looks pretty smart. The power switch was having no effect after I tried it a couple of times and was having to be switched off at the wall socket. I had fitted a suppression capacitor across the switch and after removing it it now switches off and on now. The capacitor must have been leaking current. Can't actually hear the relay operating at switch on/off. Tried it with some Sony APM 22ES flat driver speakers. Really surprising aspect is the bass. It sounds solid and extended. Doesn't sound at all rough and not overtly noisy. There is some noise when close up to the speakers but it doesn't draw attention to itself. Haven't really had a good listen yet. Will have to plug me power meter in and see how much juice it uses. All in all, quite pleased. There's just a question mark over the relay and the power transformer, which I doubt is suited to UK mains. Although the previous owner had it in use without problems. Here's the power supply circuit. Tried to get one from the distributor, but it was a waste of time. Forgot the relay: Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  9. Mr Kipling

    Valve info

    Yes. I appreciate it's not acting as a rectifier now. I was meaning for use if modified. It should sound pretty decent. In his write-up, Mr L mentions it sounding better in the bass than his GM70 monos at 10 times the price. http://lampizator.eu/AMPLIFIERS/CHINA/audioromy/Audioromy%20813.html The 5U3C is Russian, as is the spare. Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  10. Mr Kipling

    Valve info

    The recifier is a 5U3C. Got a spare as well recently. NOS 1959. Wish I'd known. What would be a better replacement? Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  11. Mr Kipling

    Valve info

    Here's a better view! Yes, the previous owner mentioned on DIY audio that the the rectifier pins were pretty tarnished and were making poor contact causing the 4 10K 2W resistors wired in series/parallel for the 10K to burn out and scortch the board. He replaced them with a single 10K 25W one. The black item is the relay. Contacts are only rated for 50v! The blue item next to it is a 1uF capacitor. I'll redraw the sections for you see. I do have the 828 with FU29 valves which I got new some years ago. Originally I wanted the 838a, but it was twice the price (£400). I really like it but stopped using it as my mains is constantly around 247v. The previous owner of the 838a said he was using it without problems. The transformer area was pretty hot tonight when I had it on for about an hour. Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  12. Mr Kipling

    Valve info

    Well, it's working! The left channel has a dodgy contact. I've lost the nut & washer for the volume pot so it's not secure and don't know if it's a connection or the pot itself. Won't switch off though. Don't know if it was like that when I got it. Just using some basic speakers that could be sacrificed so it's hard to tell about sound quality. Oh, the mods do away with the feedback loop. Must have the indicater led wired the wrong way. Was hard to tell if the rectifier was working. Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  13. Mr Kipling

    Valve info

    Yes. The supply is how it was originally. Found two resistors in series in the feedback loop. A 39K + 22K Keep meaning to get a variac. Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk
  14. Mr Kipling

    Valve info

    The two rectifiers on the heatsinks and the four smallish capacitors on the supply board nearest the top feed the FU13s. The two smaller caps to the right and diode are for the bias, the capacitor on the middle edge, two resistors behind and two diodes in parallel at the edge of the board not seen, feed the the heaters for the input and drivers and the eight diodes and four capacitors and paralleled four off the board are the high voltage. The photo is how it was originally. Here's the diyaudio thread: Can't get the thread to show. Link keeps coming up twice.
  15. Mr Kipling

    Valve info

    No. It's what I found from doing a search. Here's the full circuit. And here's Mr Lampizator's mods for the Audioromy 838a; he didn't give the power supply. I've just done his mods, but still psyching myself up enough to switch it on. I've drawn the circuit out and the power supply is similar to the above. I did get a circuit from the the person I bought the amp off, but the power supply, when I drew it out is different. I did get the later version with the octal driver and doubles up the power supply caps, so perhaps the power supply was changed. Mr L is pretty positive about the sound when it's modified. The bass in particular. Even in standard form, some have commented on how good it sounds. There's a thread on DIY Audio. Sent from my K3 using Tapatalk