Newbie Wammer
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About Weeman1973

  • Rank
    Junior Wammer

Personal Info

  • Location
    Cambridgeshire, UK.
  • Real Name

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Technics SL1200 MkII
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Denon DL-103r
  • SUT / Phono Stage
  • Digital Source 1
    Nova Fidelity X40
  • Integrated Amp
    MBL 7006
  • My Speakers
    WLM La Scala
  • Headphones
    Shure SRH1540
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. I have a few I need to move including my Croft, Heed Questar and a heavily modded (by Les Carpenter) Yaqin MS23B - All MM. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. No worries. The Croft upgrade was completed by Glenn himself so it’s basically the Micro 25 and the Croft Series 7 PA in the same box Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Lovely looking speakers and seriously tempting... I might be moving on my Ming Da Integrated MC368-B 902 or Croft Integrated (upgraded to active pre-amp section)if you were interested in some sort of swap?
  4. That would be great thanks. If the warranty is transferable then I’d be interested but if not, for the sake of £30 I might as well buy a new one. I’m interested to venture into passive pre’s to hear the true sound of my Chord SPM1000B so think the Tisbury would be a great start Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Thanks - do you know if the 2yr warranty is transferable? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Anybody got the Mk II version of the Mini Passive Pre Amp they want to move on? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Thanks guys - this seems to have sorted it, running another earthing lead from the chassis to the pre-amp. Just trying to get the levelling spot on but as it stands it's sounding very good to me, even with my slightly worn MP11 which will be next thing I change.
  8. I recently bought an Ariston RD80SL and added my Pro-Ject 9cc Carbon Arm. The arm has standard flying leads, connected to an external box on the original Pro-Ject deck it came from. You then plug standard RCA leads into this and then to the pre-amp. I had to de-solder to get the arm out and have re-soldered back to this box when fixing to the Ariston. I now have a buzz going through the system that weren't there before. Any ideas? I've connected the leads as they were on the Pro-Ject and can't see any obvious earthing issues so wondered what it could be? I've tried different pre-amps as well but the buzz is there which is worse if I remove the earthing cable.
  9. Just taken a look on Henley's site and it looks as though the 9cc Tonearm has various terminations but the Geometry is all Linn Mount. Mine has the standard flying lead which I enquired about changing to DIN or RCA plugs in my post above.
  10. Didn't realise this so hope it now fits! Looking underneath my 2Xperience, the Tonearm has the Linn, 3 hole pattern so hope it fits a Linn armboard
  11. Thanks all for the replies. OK so I've pulled the trigger on an RD80SL so now need to move over my Pro-Ject 9cc Tonearm from my Pro-Ject deck that I intend to use - anyone got any tips for doing it correctly? One point of issue I see is that the internal wires on the arm go through the deck of the Pro-Ject then into an external junction box using RCA sockets etc that you then plug standrad RCA interconnects into then onto the pre-amp etc. Ideally I'd like to go straight from the tonearm into the pre-amp using RCA plugs on the tonearm wires, akin to Linn, Rega arms etc. Am I better to do a full internal rewire to achieve this (if so, again any tips?) or will this be too difficult / overkill or should I just de-solder the current wires from the external box on the project and reconnect once on the Ariston deck (presuming of course there is room on the underside of the Ariston to accommodate the box)?
  12. PM’d Re VDH Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. You rate it that high then? Can I ask what arm you have on yours? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk