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About Bodgit

  • Rank
    Experienced Wammer

Personal Info

  • Location
  • Real Name

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    AR EB101
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Roksan Corus Blue
  • Digital Source 1
    Wadia 861
  • Digital Source 2
    Squeezebox Touch
  • DAC
    Wadia 861
  • Integrated Amp
    MF X-P100/X-A200s
  • Pre-Amp
    Wadia 861
  • Power Amp/s
    Muse Model 300
  • My Speakers
    SCM40 MKI /EPOS ES14
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. A bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing Amp is working with replacement K176, but there's about 8db difference in volume, tinkered amp is quieter. Have contacted Stephen @VintageTech to see if can figure out what's going on on the assumption you're too busy with other things.
  2. Not sure what a current sharing resistor is. Its a pretty simple setup in the output stage: - 6 each of N channel and P channel MOSFETs, N channel one side, P channel the other - Drain connected directly to +ve one side and -ve the other (marked RD, red wire on the photo) +ve speaker terminal terminal is connected to the source via a 0.22 ohm resistor on each MOSEFET (bottom track) The smaller resistors connect to the gates and are fed via the white cable which I assume is the low level signal input. You can see the resistor I replaced, and the MOSFET above it marked "OK" is the dead one which I have since also replaced. David
  3. Bodgit

    Bug bears in hifi

    Just been tidying my cables after the house rewire. Replaced and shortened the mains leads on my DIY mains cables, if you have such cables and are confident altering them, could think about shortening such leads to avoid coils of cable. Any non-special mains leads can be easily shortened and new plugs put on, have done this in my understairs cupboard (NAS (network device) Also bought some cheap Velcro ties to help keep things tidy.
  4. I've got a dead MOSEFET on one of my MUSE mono blocks, they each have 6 pairs of 2SJ56/2SK176 MOSEFETs in a TO3 packge so assume these are 6 pairs in a push/pull configuration. SJ56s on one side, SK176s on the other. Its a 2SK176 that's dead and I've been able to source a replacement 2SK176 plus an ECF10N20 from Profusion which they say is a direct replacement. Took some measurements with a Peak Atlas DCA75 pro, the gate threshold voltage and transconductance values differ slightly between the devices and was wondering which is more important for device matching. Its not so important now as I have the SK176 labelled device which will go in, but if more go pop then I might be forced to go with the Profusion replacement and wondering what kind of tolerance/difference is acceptable. Values are at home which I will post here later.
  5. Think you could be right v1nn1e, the games are pretty CPU intensive. Have found some online guides to rectify the problem but none work. Might give the earphones a try on my Galaxy S3 :-)
  6. Bodgit

    Bug bears in hifi

    Bits of my power amp not working properly or broken...going back 30 years to my Electronics degree, buying test equipment, resistors and no longer made MOSFETs. Every day is a school day at the moment.
  7. Reminds me of a great album. Three sides to every story...yours, mine and the truth
  8. My old school friend (early 1980s) Chris Liauw will be there I believe in room 414 showing off his Curvi Speakers. If you see him, say hello from me :-)
  9. I think the issue is officially called stuttering, the sounds breaks up and crackles. Just trying this suggested fix
  10. Apologies if this is the wrong place to post...but may be some of you clever people have an answer to this. I'm using some cheapish earphones, Anker Soundbuds Slim, with my Android phone, a Galaxy S6 Edge+. It plays music perfectly, but sounds from games is kind of distorted and echoey, pretty much unlistenable. Any ideas why?
  11. Shame I can't make use of it, can't chop down my amps and its the wrong size (length/height) for my 2nd hifi
  12. What a tragic story, sounds like the seller has been somewhat persuasive, indeed aggressive, in persuading you to buy gear that is not suitable. However in the end, you're the one responsible for your decisions and now have to deal with outcome on top of everything else. As others have mentioned, I think selling the lot and starting again might be a good place to start and use the proceeds to try components at a fraction of the previous budget. I can second Trevor @ Guildford audio, got my SCM40s from him second hand and he's not aggressive at all. Always has a range of pre-loved stuff and I would have thought amenable to letting you try things out for a bit. Give him a call and see if he's willing to talk things through and then pop over to yours with his van filled with a few things to try out - no commitment on your side. What is clear though, is that you need a dealer who understands your predicament and will work with you to achieve an outcome that you believe is a good one. My other thought on how best to deal with this situation is to try and detach yourself emotionally from it all - easier said than done. Rather see it as a project and take decisions objectively. Best of luck.
  13. Bit of an update on my amp, all is not what it seems sometimes. Each amp has 6 pairs of 2SJ56 and 2SK176 MOSFETS in TO3 case Found out one of the biasing the resistors was open circuit - adjacent to the drain (I think, source is the case right?) on one of the 2SK176s, possibly the one Henry was using to biasing the amp. Found a replacement resistor (0R22 ohm, 2 watt, 5% tol) and swapped it, but still no voltage across it. Took out the 2SK176 and it seems to be open circuit. Have ordered a replacement 2SK176 from Ebay and also an EC10N20 supposed to be a modern replacement. Henry pointed me to the Atlas tester so have ordered a DCA75 pro too. More fettling to come!