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About Jail4CEOs2

  • Rank
    Experienced Wammer

Personal Info

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Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Its the 21st century
  • Digital Source 1
    Linn MDSM/2
  • Digital Source 2
    OPPO 105D
  • Pre-Amp
    Linn Majik DSM/2
  • Power Amp/s
    Majik Exaktbox-i
  • My Speakers
    Linn Ninkas /K 104's
  • Headphones
    Sennheiser HD 6xx
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. Please assure yourself that the old power supply is: A) not defective (source of death of old unit) B) the correct power output and nipple
  2. Those wires look comparable to those in my 104's and 109's.
  3. Request Exakt compatibility too, I'm dyin' over here! But that is probably their focus, so everything else can wait it's turn. I'm pretty certain that the great many people who tried SOv1, and then turned it off has made them up their game for this version. Initial reports seem to be positive for non Paul users?
  4. I would still try to extract the drivers, and maybe the crossovers and speaker binding posts if possible. Then you could try to source some quality woodworking clamps. I think there are urethane glues that might do what you need, but the key is really good clamps. Bar clamps, maybe band clamps. YouTube folks using these things and how to use them, or find a local cabinetmaker to do it....because you'll only get one shot at this type of operation.
  5. There's a beta? They're phasing out kazoo?
  6. If there is no outside signs of joint failure I'll bet it's the bass drivers, or maybe wires inside. What I use to remove the rubber rings is called a spudger. You could probably buy one at anyone who repairs cellphones in your area. I have one and I've worn mine out removing those rings. I have to find a new one. https://www.tvc-mall.com/details/10pcs-plastic-opening-pry-tool-spudger-for-smartphone-and-tablets-sku23030010a.html That one looks good as it's plastic, and has a slight hook which is helpful I find.
  7. Steve, you have to downsize the image to I think around 480x480 pixels. Open the image in Microsoft paint (which is included in every Microsoft oppressing system (I'm gonna leave that typo, instead of operating 'cuz it's perfect innit!?) for free) which allows you to resize by percent or pixels.
  8. Have you ever tried to tighten the fasteners that hold the drivers in place? I do this very carefully/gently with my various speakers whey two years or so. That would be my first suggestion to you. Be sure not to over tighten, just firmly snug. You'll be shocked at the improvement in sound. Tightening may eliminate the buzz, if not, carefully unscrew the fasteners in the bass driver. Then gently pry it out, noting if these use adhesives or a gasket (someone else with deeper expertise in this model will come along to highlight this). I just opened my 104's to make them Aktiv and there was a sticky, but still pliable adhesive holding the driver in place. 109's on the other hand were just a gasket. In all things tweaking, slow and steady wins the race. Tighten a bit, listen, a bit more, listen again.
  9. What was the cost please Steve?
  10. I felt it was, but it was a several month gap from hearing bi-Aktiv to Exaktbox-i Ninkas.
  11. Remember Exaktbox-i allows pretty much any speaker if you have serious upgraditus. Plus another question, has anyone ever used an Exaktbox-i as an Exaktbox, and outputted to an amp? (I think I'm going to have to try this while I still have a 6100D in the fleet, can someone send me two pairs of silvers pretty please?)
  12. The jump for the -i is a two step process. First, you can (I could) see an upgrade from my 6100D. Then comes Katalyst. So I can't answer for z, where x + y = z, but that could be an equation dealing with -I vs AEBox. As said above intermediary cabling needs to be thought of too.
  13. Did anybody notice ten percent off Katalyst and Exakt upgrades?