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About zee9

  • Rank
    Audio Junkie
  • Birthday Private

Personal Info

  • Location
    New Jersey, USA
  • Real Name

Wigwam Info

  • Digital Source 1
    Unidisc SC
  • DAC
    Majik DSM
  • Pre-Amp
    Majik DSM/1
  • Power Amp/s
    Linn c5100 / c3200
  • My Speakers
    Linn Kabers
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. Thanks Pete. Any advice to a very important question pertaining to ideal vs practical position? “MY QUESTION IS THAT THE SOUND IMAGE COMPLETELY CHANGED WHEN I PULLED THE SPEAKERS AWAY FROM THE WALL BUT AFTER THE TOW IN IT TOTALLY WIDENED TO MY LIKING. “ Will I still get this image after setting ideal to practical position or will I lose that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. DAMN! I just deleted all My old optimizations as they wouldn’t show details after the room got altered. Is there a way to creat a second room and remove that wall to do an A-B comparison? Just duplicate and rename the room??? Do you think the hifi closed rack approximately 3” from the outer most corner of my right speaker matters for SO corrections. It’s as tall as my speaker Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Your blown woofer gave me an idea after reading about a SEAS woofer upgrade for the Majik 109 speakers on the lejonklou forum. I’ll have to message the person who did the homework but i’d be totally open to this idea. Depending on price I might even give it a try. Here’s the link to the lejonklou forum: https://www.lejonklou.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2827 There used to be a topic with SEAS woofers as a kaber upgrade and I’m thinking about trying it. Here’s a snapshot of that topic but I have no idea how to find the archived topic from the old linn forum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Here’s an actual picture of the wall with the gaps and the drawing again. In the previous drawing where it looks like the wall goes thru till the right speaker is misleading as you can’t see the door gaps. However I wonder if SO considers it as a gap or a door with the doors closed as it asks for material of the door. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. @Rich9600 a took you advice adding a full wall and two doors for the smaller divisions between the kitchen and the living room. It does sound a little better. Now a new question arises. With this latest calculation on SOV2 I still feel it lacks some bass (quantity). Without SO the base feels loose compared to it on. Next project is to push the speakers to its practical position once I’m satisfied with the SO calculation. MY QUESTION IS THAT THE SOUND IMAGE COMPLETELY CHANGED WHEN I PULLED THE SPEAKERS AWAY FROM THE WALL BUT AFTER THE TOW IN IT TOTALLY WIDENED TO MY LIKING. Would I loose that whole imaging if the speakers move to a practical position (no toe in, almost 6-8” back towards the front wall) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I downloaded the test files from linn records and was rather surprised yesterday. In the folder it’s 3 classical tracks in studio master quality and mp3. Either my ears are shot or something’s wrong but there seems to be very little difference between the mp3 and studio master files. Am I going crazy? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Yes but I can’t add the second stand alone wall that’s closer to the speaker and probably affect reflections more than the small wall between the kitchen and the living room closer to the window. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I don’t think you can add a stand alone wall on V2. Yes I’m using SO v2 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Hi all since these are general questions I was wondering what width should I use as my rooms width. Linn says leave out small walls if they are less than held the measurable space. Would that mean my width should be 208” or 141” as per the below diagram. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Thanks a I managed to feed in the toe in. I hope this is the right place to ask the next question. When connecting a sub for SO V2 would I connect it to my dsm? Presently I can connect it via my aktiv amplifier that has a spare extra channel however I doubt that will get any SO changes when aktivated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Ps there’s a much cheaper way to ship to the UK. There’s an Indian courier service I use that charges $12 for the first lb and $8 for every lb after that. Let me know if I can help. Those are the rates to india. Maybe the UK is cheaper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I sourced mine in the US as the rubber surround on mine had a slit in it. For temporary use I had just covered the slit from the inside till I found a replacement. Once I got the replacement a part of the rubber cane of the steel frame probably due to heat during shipping. I took me 2/3 different glues to manage to glue it back on and then it was a simple swap. It does sound better than my older driver. I decided to keep the driver as a spare as a new surround could always be replaced onto the woofer for $40. These drivers keep showing up on eBay but maybe you can find someone who has an extra pair in the U.K. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Got the below email from linn helpline. I deleted the subwoofer of SOv1 and everything works as should in SOv2. You do have to creat a whole new Analysis after adding the subwoofer Thank you for your e-mail. I have had our engineers look into the issue that you are reporting. Basically you have a v1 optimisation on your device currently which contains an additional subwoofer. In V1 they didn’t keep a track of the channel type of additional subs. In web app, if there is an optimisation on the device, it looks at it to see what speakers it was made with and check if the speakers are the same as the currently selected one, if so then it can show it for import. I think somewhere in this check its looking for a channel property that isn’t there. This is something we can fix but will take a bit more investigation. For now, If you don’t care about the current optimisation you could go to Konfig and remove it If you want to import the v1 optimisation into the web app then you will have to wait until a fix can be implemented. I hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I went thru the same thing and it took me a few months to find a decent used driver. Which driver is it? Easy to identify if you remove the bolts and see the model number behind the driver After finding a replacement driver and upgraded tweeters I did remove the x-overs from my Kabers and am now driving them aktiv. May I ask more details about your set up? Present preamp, power amp, source etc There is a used driver available on flea bay right now in Canada (I think this is for the lower bass driver if I’m not mistaken) but i’d prefer you pull Out the driver to see if the wire has just come loose etc. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264030562708 The process to remove the crossover in the speakers is not tough but you do need to use a method so that you can put it back if you don’t like the aktiv sound (I doubt you won’t like it) I can send you the paper work explaining the process from linn that’s sent to the dealers. The availability of the cards will depend on the amplifiers that you are using or plan to use. I’m presently running Majik chakra amps for the mid and bass and an Akurate level amp for the highs but I feel (just my opinion) that is prefer all Akurate level amps for my setup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I’m also a newbie to SO and still figuring it out but moving from -30db to -20dB means your actually increasing the gain (amount of volume) on that frequency as it goes from - to 0 to + I’d suggest increments of 3db at a time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk