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About Pennypacker

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    Junior Wammer

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  1. I wouldn't bother with the Frankenstein set up all to long. According to the (Linn) filosofie al the inactive speakers interfere with the active ones. I never tested this myself though, but I think it makes sense. Also, which set do you want to keep at the ideal position? They can't be at the same ideal position all at once. Another thing to maybe think about is that a regular subwoofer mostly works form 80Hz and downwards. Your aktiv Ninka will work from a higher frequency and downward. I would just choose a pair and drive them aktiv with the Akurate amps. And after SO and position them at the best, I would look for a "real" sub. If it is still needed, which can be integrated in SOv2 the Ninkas would have my vote based on looks. Thumbs up on the experiments though.
  2. Sonus faber sonetto I and II Dynaudio Evoke 10 and 20 Dynaudio Xeo (active) if you can add a phonostage. Amps: S/H Linn DS-i, DSM or Majik-I (all with phonostage) Something from Primare.
  3. 2800,- for a s/h amp is no chump change. On this side of the pond an 6100 with dynamik can be found for around 1300 to 1600 in euro's. Keep in mind that when you stick to keilidh/ninka a 4 channel amp would be sufficient to drive them aktiv. This is not the case with Espek and/or Kaber, you need 6 channels. This will add up on the (s/h) Akurate amps. The x100 are fine amps for the money IMHO. Sourcing Espek aktiv cards is difficult, they are quite rare. Even more so the Chakt0x you need for the x100 and x200 amps.
  4. In SO, from the faceplate and outer corners. In other positioning methods also from the faceplate I believe.
  5. The sickenes went away pretty fast, took an hour or 2. About the LED: If you pluck a little bit of the black bunge suplied with your 140's, you can stick it in the hole of the blue LED. It dims the light, but you can still see it, simple solution without having to open anything.
  6. Nice, the red and chrome. Kind of funny how I red in another thread that you "unblinged" some Akurate feet with black tape.
  7. If the Akudorik works the same as the 212 when you go active, you will get a number of hertz in the low regions with the exaktbox.
  8. There must be a difference if we have to assume the instructions, I also believe there is a difference. The ideal speaker position must be determined by experimentation (tune-dem) and not by assumption.I have this also on the agenda for myself to determine the speaker position, but I don't have the time. I also wonder what the starting point of this exercise should be. I assume that people do not just move the speakers in the middle of the room and move around.For example, should the cardas method be used? or something else.Tune-dem doesn't say much about that.
  9. I second that. I Also would like to know how Exakt Katalyst 140's hold up against aktiv Akubariks without a Katalyst source..
  10. Small dillema there, heavy front-end on the Keilidh's. You can't drive a kudos speaker in your current configuration active without any further boxes/add-ons/investment. There are solutions from Naim or Devialet (not sure). If you are sticking with Linn whilst having the intention of driving a Kudos speaker active, Exakt is your only option. You can however drive any Kudos speaker bi-amped with the 4200 and add the Exaktbox later.
  11. Yep, and I'm afraid that Linn Blacks are not the obvious choice on this level. Higher spec interlinks will add up.
  12. I'm not 100% sure if the Akurate Exaktbox-i is Majik or Akurate level amps. However since it is a overhauled Majik Exaktbox-i this is, I have to say an assumption from my part.. It boiles down to an integrated one box solution with the shortest signal path vs the beefier two box solution with interlinks. 100wpc is adequate for my 140's, I really like the I-box in any case.