Newbie Wammer
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About JazzyG

  • Rank
    New Wammer

Personal Info

  • Location
    United States

Wigwam Info

  • Digital Source 1
    Linn Klimax DSM-K
  • Digital Source 2
    Linn Akurate DSM-0
  • Integrated Amp
    Linn Sneaky DSM
  • Power Amp/s
    Bryston 4BSST2
  • My Speakers
    Klimax 320A / Mini-T
  • Headphones
    SUB: JL Audio Fathom F113
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

227 profile views
  1. I am still running my trusty 320A's, final Dynamik iteration, but now with Klimax Katalyst DSM. I agree, any lingering 'clinical' characteristic went out the window with Katalyst. The 3K array is so revealing, you need a great source to not expose deficiencies upstream, which may sound harsh. I am even using DH Labs silver interconnects and silver/rhodium power cables on the 320A's, which are sometimes faulted for being too bright--not the case with my system. @Fitter Stoke I bet a Klimax Solo per speaker makes your 'Doriks sing!!! JazzyG
  2. Tony, I follow your line of logic and I agree, without the spec sheet for the meter, we are left with some level of uncertainty on actual noise levels and percentages. A better way of wording would have been to state "The meter indicated a 99% decrease in the indeterminate measured level of noise". I did do more searching and found some videos on YouTube that show the meter in use. One of Monster's videos does specifically state a percentage drop in noise as well. The speaker on the meter would certainly indicate a very large percentage decrease in noise, on the videos I watched, when it goes from loud, even pulling in radio stations in some cases, to inaudible. I think within the context of how the meter was used, within this thread, there is nothing being misrepresented or intent to mislead. It is interesting to explore things further like this, as long as the intent is scientific inquiry and not trying to discredit Paul's research, which is well thought out. The fact that he has measurements at all is amazing in a subjective hobby such as ours! I see in pictures that the meter comes with a manual, so hopefully someone can upload it! JazzyG
  3. Rad, I have heard good things about the Shunyata Venom series, so not sure if you would disrupt any kind of balance with a change like that or pick up a nice gain. I agree, the adapters certainly would be a concern to me, they can only make it worse, but how much? Once you cut the end molded off, there is no going back and would be difficult to sell. The other option would be to see if you can sell your Euro Venoms and buy new UK ones, wait until you find some used or on sale to make the change. I do not think DIY terminations are an issue, if you do a good job. Most pre-built audiophile cables use the same ends you can buy, just somebody other than you put them on. The Cardas ends I used on my 320A's are identical to the ones Cardas uses on their finished cables. Their ultra high end cables use different ends, but you can buy those ala carte too. The molded plugs are more likely found on the "budget lines", like Pangea or your Shunyata Venom vs higher level Shunyata. I would try to keep the same cables and terminations on all 4 solos though, for synergy. Maybe it is time to try building some complete Furutech cables and compare, you will hear everything with solos. It is a hobby after all, have fun with it, it is very rewarding to build cables! Oh, and my experience has been that EVERYTHING makes a difference. Cheers, JazzyG
  4. Tony, As long as the instrument is linear, it does not matter what the unit of measure is to calculate a percentage. I searched and could not find any specs for the Entech line sniffer, was there anything included with the meter Paul? An easy way to test the linearity would be to move the meter starting level to 80, 100 & 120, test the same lines and see if the percentage works out the same with each ref point. Even if it is not an exactly linear device, that would not render the analysis useless, just not an akurate percentage. JazzyG
  5. Final update on my project: Hypothesis: That improvements in power cords, shielding, cable management, power conditioners, power outlets, AC & IEC connectors, cleaning and conditioning connectors and eliminating noisy AC power supplies from system will improve sound quality in a Linn HiFi system. Things I learned: Furutech products from Japan are exceptional, once I got turned on to them I was sold. DH Labs are also very good quality and represent a good value, which is surprising for a USA built product to be price competitive. I utilized some Cardas AC & IEC ends, good stuff, but honestly I would use all Furutech if I started over. The Furman power conditioner ended up being a big disappointment, the quality isn't even remotely in the same realm as the brands listed above. I changed it for a Furutech e-TP609 power strip, with no conditioning. I then used their FI-68(R) IEC with built in power filters to pickup any EMI/RF right as it goes into the strip. I like this option as I could experiment with different non-filtering cords and also have option to replace or upgrade the filter w/o replacing the excellent strip that will last indefinitely. I also changed out my wall receptacle to match the ones used in the power strip. Be Patient, it takes a long time for all the new connectors, cables and conditioners to break-in. This is a very real process and you will see changes, up to 600 hours of use! About 100 hours was the first big plateau, but it was certainly not the only one. The first week was a bit rough, sound was all over the map and varied a lot until things started to settle down. I feel like I am just now getting towards the end of break-in, hitting another level of refinement this week. This is especially true when you make a lot of changes to the system at once, like I did. If you buy AC plugs with expensive Gold or Rhodium plating, be certain to buy wall receptacles that match and will not scratch the coatings off. I caught on to this with minimal damage to one plug before I made changes. Furutech wall receptacles use a patented design that will not scratch your coatings with use. Sound Quality: More high frequency detail and resolution, yet sounds smoother and less fatiguing. Soundstage is wider and more dimension front-to-back than before. This seems to have a lot to do with more information coming through in the "presence region". Overall a cleaner, more dynamic, sound that lets more of the ambience information through. Amazingly, more of what would often be considered treble areas that might lead you to think it is analytical or bright, but the overall sound is less fatiguing and more organic/natural sounding. Bass ended up being a bit leaner, and a much more articulate sound overall, but with more deep bass extension evident. The deeper extension may also be related to better overall control of the mid-to-upper bass, as it is a cleaner and tighter sound, which can allow you to hear more deep bass that was previously masked. I listen to a lot of ambient and new age music, soundscapes just hang in the air with much more decay and the deep bass is less directional with it just a fully integrated foundation to the overall sound picture. Female vocals on Enya's Dark Sky Island in hi/res is so much more detailed, hearing every articulation in her voice and layering of sounds. Full scale symphonic and choral works are awe inspiring, listened to Arvo Part's Credo last night, blew me away! The speakers disappear better than before, and this was a great system before the changes, but everything is just another level of transparency. Summary: I can now confirm with 100% certainty that a comprehensive approach to AC power management can make a big difference in the sound quality, so glad I went down this rabbit hole! I ended up going all they way in and spent quite a bit more time and money than my initial plan, but figured if it is worth doing...it is worth doing right. YMMV, as with any upgrade, what you get out of it is dependent on a lot of factors. I think something like this should be undertaken after you have your system very well sorted out as far as tunedem, room treatments, interconnects, etc. Recommendation would be to keep your overall system budget in mind when making buying decisions. One needs to consider at what point do you get more value in upgrading your source, speakers or amp vs buying an expensive power product? Some power product benefits may not be as evident in a less revealing system, but there are gains to be had at every level. Cable management, cleaning and conditioning contacts and using a hospital or audio grade powerstrip are no brainers. Suppliers Used: VH Audio <--Chris VenHaus is very knowledgeable and great to work with! Audiophile Answers The Cable Company Audio Advisor Sonic Craft @Paulssurround, thanks for getting me off my couch and finally taking this project on! @Zee9, I do not think Paul is in the US. I am US, but not anywhere near the East coast. Looking at your system in your signature, a great step for you would be to go aktiv with the Kabers. Counting amp channels seems like you have more than enough already, so it would be a huge upgrade to add aktiv cards for relatively low cost. Cheers, JazzyG
  6. I picked up one of these iFi Audio DC Power supplies recently for one of my network switches, about $50 US. I have several more places in my network I need to place these, but I think it is worthwhile. They make them in 4 different voltages, so you can get the noisy supplies out of your house entirely if you so desire. Meanwhile...my power cord project is going really well, still have a couple to make but early results are sounding really good. I shortened everything to only what was necessary, which cleaned up the back of my rack a lot, another benefit of making your own! JazzyG
  7. I discovered a neat little gadget that makes it super easy to manage cables on your rack, especially if you use a Salamander Synergy. The product is called Gear Tie and they are made by Nite Ize, it is a reusable rubberized twist tie available in a variety of sizes. However, the 18" ones have a ball on the end that happens to fit perfectly in the groove of your Salamander Synergy rack. They are easy to push in/out, but they stay put so you can easily make a loop to route cables through. They are super flexible, come in a lot of sizes, and you certainly could use them for cable management in a variety of situations, but too cool how the bigger size fits in the Synergy rack! JazzyG
  8. FYI, in case anybody reads that I was using Cardas 3455R IEC connector on a Linn Klimax case...it does NOT fit. I am now ordering a Furutech FI-C15 NCF IEC connector as it is 'slimline' and specifically states it will fit Linn and Devialet cases. I am going to use the Furutech FP-TCS21 for the DSM as it looks like a good match for a digital source/preamp w/ SMPS. I found a good sale price on some DH Labs Red Wave power cable, have that on order for the 320A speakers amps, will use the Cardas ends. I ended up making a nice long IEC cord for my Sneaky DSM with the Monster Powerline 200 cable and Cardas IEC end. I previously had to use an extension cord on that component as it is high on a book case...now I don't! The 16' of 14AWG Flextreme heavy-duty cable is now my new garage extension cord w/ Leviton ends...the vacuum cleaner picks up 10% more dirt now--just kidding. Excited to see how this all turns out...I have never used any upgraded power cords and been doing this hobby a long time. Let's just say I was one of those pesky power cord sceptics, but I am ready to be a believer. Hopefully, I didn't just waste my cash... Cheers, JazzyG
  9. Looking very nice Jail4, the way you have it configured you can route your cables really cleanly. What is your floor made out of? If it is really solid, looks like hard flooring, you may not need much more isolation than the boards with cork or felt. But when did reason ever stop an upgrade or tweak? Yeah, I was an early adopter on the Aptitlig board, going back to the original thread on the old Linn forum years ago! I was the guy who used cock rings under my Aptitlig, calling them the Klimax isolation ring. You can't see it in the picture, but I recently changed out my...ahem "rings" for Vibrapods + Vibracones stacked under the Aptitlig. What do you use the Gunstigs for? Yes, I will definitely be on the lookout for a good deal on some nice cable by the meter. Patience...is...er...a...PITA? Jazzyg
  10. I have been doing a lot of work to my system lately, also focusing on some power products. I picked up aFurman PC-PRO DMC 20 amp power distribution block pretty cheap used, has some nice features. Rack mounts in my Salamander rack, which if very cool, has power conditioning, surge protection and a master switch for everything installed. Oh, and is has lights that pull out. The speakers are Linn 320A, the left one is too far away from the rack so I have it plugged into the MIT outlet pictured, which has conditioning and surge protection built in. Whether you agree with power conditioning is your own choice, but I will not leave my expensive components w/o any surge protection. My next project is to do some experimenting with power cords. I want to build 2 really short cables for the Rotel tuner and DSM, as they only have to go to the Furman in-between them, figure just getting the birds nest of extra power cabling out of there will help with noise contamination! The Plan: I just ordered the following parts in enough quantities to do some experimenting with power cables. Cardas 3455R IEC Cardas 3455R Male AC 1/2" Tinned Copper Braided Sleeving 1/2" Black Fray Resistant PET Braided Sleeving Plan is to build up some cables using various different wire and see what I can come up with. For starters I have a nice piece of Monster 14/3 and a piece of Flextreme 14/3 off a large pump that I got as scrap from work. First experiment is to see if just going from the standard 16AWG cable on the Linn components to a decent, but not exotic, 14AWG cable makes a difference. I also want to use the tinned copper and PET braiding to see if I get much result with more shielding over that cable. The cool thing about the Cardas ends, the wire just clamps into a clam shell design so I can experiment with better wire down the road, maybe I can find a used length of Shunyata or Cardas cable I can try at some point. It appears as though the Cardas 3455R IEC end will fit in the Klimax gear...that is the hope! Most of the other options are those HUGE round ends and I know they will not fit a Klimax case, due to the overhang. Oh, and my wife bought me a turntable for Christmas, look on top of the rack! I went all digital over 10 years ago...we kind of have an ongoing joke about records, everyone seems to always think audiophiles are all into analog.
  11. I have also come across many of the issues with Kazoo that are mentioned in this thread. I finally figured out the "Settings" and "Subnets" thing, but unfortunately it often flips back the wrong one randomly. Then, when I go in to flip it back, it gets stuck waiting for a room and prevents me from accessing the settings. Tired of rebooting to get back in. I have a Zyxel C2100Z and I was unable to locate any setting referred to as IGMP snooping so no luck there, any suggestions would be appreciated. I have been using Bubble DS off and on for years, it is so much more stable and less buggy. Every now and then, Kazoo works great, then the guys in Scotland do an update and it takes them 6 months to fix it again. Bubble DS is well worth the nominal cost, as Kazoo is a joke for the most part. Love Linn, pretty invested in it so would be very hard to move away from the platform, but the app's have never worked right for me dating back to Kinsky and several different generations of Android/Apple devices. My wife and I have the same exact phone, on the same network, and mine will "sit and spin" and her device finds the rooms or vice-versa Cheers, JazzyG
  12. I ended up moving my big system to the great room, Klimax DSM on 320A's w/ JL Audio sub. So, that changed my needs and I bought an exdem pair of Twenty 23's for the smaller room. These will be running Akurate DSM, should get it back soon from upgrading to Katalyst, and 4BSST2. I also ordered some Van Damme speaker cable, the 6mm stuff, to try with the PMC system. Then I am gonna make some new interconnects using Van Damme bulk wire and Neutrik connectors for the big room. Cheers, Jazzyg
  13. That is great news Maddog, mine is on its way to Scotland right now! Excited to hear the difference.
  14. Awesome guys, much appreciate the feedback as it is not always easy to listen to them in person--especially when they are discontinued. I like the suggestion of the PB1i as I somehow missed that model in my research. The PMC line is huge, takes awhile to sort out all the differences in the models and generations. Cheers, JazzyG
  15. Wow, I really like what you are doing here, great stuff! We must have similar tastes, I am a Linn fan and also a PMC fan as well. I bookmarked your blog, Audiophile Musings, read some tonight but lot's more I want to look at. I love the old Linn ads, brochures and stuff! JazzyG