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About Tendaberry

  • Rank
    LP12 Scholar

Personal Info

  • Location

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    LinnSondek LP12 Keel
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Ekos 2/Akiva
  • SUT / Phono Stage
  • Digital Source 1
    Linn Akurate DSM Kat
  • Digital Source 2
    Akurate tuner
  • Power Amp/s
    Linn Majik 4100/6100
  • My Speakers
    Linn Akubarik (act.)
  • Headphones
    Grado PS500e
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. An Adikt shouldn't sound harsh or be sibilant, even with an Akito 2. Must be something in the setup, but do check the mat and belt. What torque values are you using for the cartridge and arm? Have you set the LP12 up yourself?
  2. This works very well for me, but then again, I have a Panasonic tv.
  3. Usually I simply go by the source first principle, so that means a Klimax Radikal or maybe Ekos SE will most likely be my next upgrade. Sometimes a very good deal comes along, like when I upgraded from 242's Mk 1 to Akubariks, and I couldn't resist that. Neither could I, when a complete set of active cards for Akubariks appeared second-hand for around € 230,- Sometimes I like to throw in a small, not so costly upgrade: I'm currently thinking about an improved power supply for my Qnap.
  4. Sorry, I don't remember the size of the spikes. Too long ago...I'm not sure you should use the IKEA shelves on top of the existing ones, but do try, which is better. Then you'll know for sure. I use the type of boards described in my earlier posting on top of the regular Quadraspire boards and it's a great deal better. I use the Oehlbach Mini Spikes between the two boards. Paul usually removes the magnets from the Gunstig pads before using them.
  5. For USD 100,- nevertheless a good buyI wouldn't use the wheels, but instead fit the spikes. I use my Quadraspire with spikes into Skeets, works very well. I think the uppermost shelf is on spikes, but the remaining ones are only on a sort of metal frame. Have a look. Experimenting with different shelves could bring you a lot. I would recommend very hard and light ones, about 8 mm thick, preferably made from about 16 individual layers.
  6. I'm afraid the Target isn't the best sounding rack around, but maybe you can fine-tune it a bit? I would try either cut-down Gunstig pads or felt pads between the metal frame and the boards (from level 2 down). Possibly Gunstig pads under the feet of of the Linn gear, too. The rack would most likely benefit from better boards, too. I remember going from exactly this Target rack to a Quadraspire and it was a major step up.
  7. I really don't think the soundbar would help one bit. In fact, it would probably be another shock, how bad the sound can get. Zee9 using the 5100 on the treble and mids is just a stop-gap solution, until he gets his 4200 on Monday, then everything will be ok (and better) again.
  8. In the June price list the Dynamik is listed at GBP 510,- (excluding Klimax amps)
  9. I would definitely use the 4200 on treble and mids and then get a Dynamik upgrade for the 3200, or like David suggests, sell the 3200 and buy a Dynamiked 2200
  10. I'd also consider the Linn K200, it's neat and very, very good.
  11. I have now tried the Wireworld Starlight CAT 8 for 2 weeks. I tried it between my router and Cisco switch as well as between the Cisco and my ADSM/3. For the latter case the initial impressions weren't very good: more details, but a bit nervous and the music lost its flow, the bass wasn't as deep either; this was in comparison to my current Audioquest Cinnamon CAT 7. I also tried replacing the cheapish Monster Cable CAT 7 between router and Cisco with the Starlight and heard the same results there. I decided to let the cable burn in for 2 weeks and redo the comparison then. For that I also invited a friend to get a second opinion. We both agreed after extended listening that the initial impressions hadn't changed with burn-in. So, the Starlight is being returned and gets no recommendation from me.
  12. Briain did and he thought the ADSM/3 was better. So I'd definitely try both, if you are unsure.