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About Solanum

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  • Turn Table
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Akito, Adikt
  • Digital Source 1
  • DAC
  • Power Amp/s
    2x 2250/D
  • My Speakers
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    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. I spent some time doing these comparisons at an Akurate level, I think I posted about it in the old forum, but obviously that no longer exists. I looked at (almost) Akurate level LP12, Akurate DSM, and Exakt. Using the LP12 through the Akurate DSM analog path vs digital path without Exakt and with SO turned off, the analogue path was slightly (not not much) better, suggesting the Akurate level A2D in the DSM was not as good as the full analogue path. My understanding is that the Klimax A2D is significantly better than the Akurate one though. Using the LP12 with Exakt was much better than the LP12 through the analogue path, so the quality gain with Exakt was significant and more than made up for any loss in digitising the LP12 signal. Without Exakt I felt the (digitised) LP12 was a little better than a 16 bit FLAC through the DSM. With Exakt and with the benefit of lots of time now I think the (almost) Akurate level LP12 has a richer and more pleasing sound than 16 bit files and is as good in terms of detail, if not better. With Exakt I find it much harder to fault 24 bit files vs the LP12. If there is any difference, maybe the LP12 is a smidgin better, but then suffers from surface noise of course. I do have a couple of albums where I have decent vinyl and 24 bit files (one a late 90's record, the other a mid-2000's record), and it is really hard to pick a difference in quality. At moderate volume especially, there is a slight difference in feel perhaps, but it is hard to pick; at louder volume the amplified surface noise makes the 24 bit file perhaps nicer to listen to. All this is moot with classical recordings as there are few LPs of modern recordings or music and the surface noise of an LP makes a much bigger difference due to the high dynamic range of the music.
  2. I second this. I have the later Ninkas rather than Keilidhs, but after many years of listening I removed the trim and found that mad/bass drivers had got quite loose and tightening the allen (or torx, I forget) bolts improved the sound a bit. I also found that removing the grills (metal not cloth for these) did improve the sound very slightly, but not enough for me to warrant kids and animals getting at them more easily.
  3. Any formal news (4th December has passed)? I note here in Aus there is some news (but no price): Haven't seen any elsewhere though (including Linn's own tonearm page). Maybe they just wrote the article based on this thread!!!!
  4. I'm going to regret this, but I think we can go there, the 1s and 0s are identical and the transport medium doesn't affect that (I am assuming they all get there of course), also, the timing is dealt with by the streamer these days, so the old problems with CD transports/DACs don't exist. Surely, the question is whether the transport medium is transporting noise in along with the 1s and 0s?
  5. I'm sure you are right about the Kairn being an evolution of the LK1, as the Klout is of the LK2, but I guess the question is, just how much of an evolution! I've always found the power amp to have a bigger impact than the pre-amp, even though the pre-amp offers a huge potential to screw up the signal.... It would be really interesting to take an LK1-LK2 system, compare with a Kairn-Klout system and a more recent system and work out just how much difference we are paying for, vs the usual way where we upgrade one bit at a time and enjoy that bit of difference. Especially with appropriate era speakers.
  6. I originally had an LK2-75 (I think it was originally an upgraded LK2-60), running with an original Majik-I and then a Kairn. This was swapped out with an LK280 (with Kairn). I briefly bi-amped them, but preferred the 280 on its own. All of these were quite old when I got them. I didn't think there was a huge difference between the two, but the 280 was a bit smoother and more detailed. These were with the original transformers, no Spark. Could make a fair difference if it is anything like the impact upgrading later amps to Dynamik had. I then swapped the 280 for a Klout (big improvement in every aspect, especially with volume/demanding loads, but didn't totally blow the 280 out of the water), followed by two Klouts aktiv. Speakers were Ninkas throughout. Never had an LK1, but it certainly looked a bit rudimentary and I find it hard to believe it compared favourably with the Kairn (which wasn't far behind the Exotik I replaced it with). How did the resurrection go?
  7. Really? I had a Lk2-75 and an Lk280 and thought the latter distinctly (but not massively) better. You really prefer the LK2? I'd be interested to know why.
  8. There used to be some nice guides on the old forum, someone might post one here I guess, but to be honest you don't need them. Just take a bit of care taking it apart and you'll be fine. The battery is on the front board of course, not the main PCB.
  9. You can do it at home (I've done it and also have no great soldering skills), you take the board out (just a few screws and plugs), desolder the battery and solder the new one on. It's very straight-forward. This should be the battery I think:
  10. So it is. Even has it's own link on Linn Docs. So far as I can see the only thing that has changed is the stencil on the front. I guess it reduces confusion around the DSM vs Exakt DSM names. Sounds a bit naff though. Was the only difference between the original AEDSM/0 and the newer AEDSM/1 (which I have) other than the 4k HDMI 2 (which I don't use)?
  11. Indeed, although mine are silver! Yeah, a 4200 + 2250/D would definitely be temporary for exaktly the reason you say. Anyway, such a change is a way off (unless I see a bargain 2250/D in silver of course....!).
  12. I wouldn't swap my 2250/Ds for a 6100..... Assuming Linn don't come out with a new generation of power amp, a 4200 (and maybe a 2200) are also on my upgrade list :-) In fact I had thought of getting a used 4200, selling one of the 2250/D would pay for a little over a quarter of it (I hope) and then I'd also have 3-way Exakt, which would max out my AEB6. Depending on speakers, I'd sell the second 2250/D (2-way) or swap it out for a 2200. So many permutations..... BTW Exakting the Ninkas was a really big step over bi-Aktiv with the exact (if you'll excuse the pun) same power amps. That is true even for the LP12 (which is digitised through the AEDSM).
  13. Interesting. I was not convinced that triaktiv would make a difference worth the cost when I was running akitv cards, but if there is more benefit in the three-way exakt design it might be worth considering. I'm not Katalysed yet, but it would be on the list before new speakers anyway (as is a Lingo 4). The Super 20As are not totally impossible (well they are for the next couple of years), but they would be a fair stretch and the Kefs are at a much more attractive price. Whether either is truly better than the Ninkas though....? I thought Kudos were doing their own filters for Exakt (thus more enthusiastic than any other manufacturer...)? Anyway, thanks for the thoughts all. I don't see anyone saying yeah, ditch the Ninkas, so that is something!
  14. I currently have a pair of Ninka speakers with composite bases. I've got them new in about 2005 and they've very happily gone on the journey with me to the point where I am now with an Exakt system (AEDSM, AEB6, 2x 2250D). For the first time I'm wondering whether they are holding me back slightly and it is time to add them to the upgrade wishlist. What alternatives do I have though, bearing in mind I'm not going to go past a three-way speaker and I want to stick with floorstanders? The obvious answer is the Super 20A, but they are probably out of my price range and I don't think there is a dealer here in Australia anyway. I wonder about the new Kef R7 (assuming they do an Exakt kit for them, which is not guaranteed I guess)? Are either of these actually much better than my Ninkas anyway?