• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

26 Excellent


About DavidHB

  • Rank
    Junior Wammer

Personal Info

  • Location
    Isle of Wight, UK
  • Real Name

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Linn LP12
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Basik Plus, K5
  • SUT / Phono Stage
    Lejonklou Gaio
  • Digital Source 1
    Klimax Exakt DSM
  • Digital Source 2
  • Pre-Amp
    Akurate Exaktbox 10
  • Power Amp/s
    Akurate 4200s/2200
  • My Speakers
    Akubariks (active)
  • Headphones
    Grado PS500
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. It is probably 25 years since I got rid of mine. And there's no nostalgia. But, after all that time, I'd probably have to listen to one all over again to form a sensible view. DSJR is entirely correct: listening tests are the key to forming and understanding our preferences.. And he is also correct in insisting so strongly that it is the system we listen to, so that the relationship between the components is often as important as the components themselves. My SME 3009 spent most of its life with me mounted on a Connoisseur BD1. These days, I'd regard that, pretty much, as sacrilege, or, more prosaically, as very poor prioritisation. My Basik Plus currently used in a Cirkus/Lingo 4/Kore setup tells, I hope, a rather different story. Which is why I thought it would be useful to describe the LP12 you are using, or were thinking about in putting your original question. David
  2. Yes, it should be moved, if the mods would be so kind. In the meantime, It's an interesting discussion. David
  3. This summer, at Hidden Systems in Windsor, I heard an LP12 fitted with a number of Tiger Paw parts, including the Javelin, Stratos case and (I think) the Akula sub-chassis. in comparison with a full spec. LP12 with the Keel and an Ekos SE. As it happens, Roger of Tiger Paw was present at this demonstration.The fully loaded LP12 gave the best results, but not by a huge margin, and the price difference was considerable. I also heard the Javelin on an otherwise Akurate level system. If I were changing my Basik Plus arm, the Javelin would be my preference over the Akito, certainly for an Akurate level deck. Roger told us that, during the development of the Javelin, the Ekos, rather than another unipivot, was the reference arm. David
  4. Not necessarily. The Basik Plus does very well on my LP12, but this arm has been discontinued for the better part of 20 years, so sourcing an example in reasonable condition could be a challenge. Linn is in the course of replacing the Pro-ject arm on Majik level turntables with an own brand arm made by Jelco. AFAIK, no information is yet available on what this new arm will cost when/if it is sold separately. The Ittok too has been discontinued for a long time. You will find it easier to audition the current models (Ekos SE and Akito). If funds are tight, a third party arm such as the Tiger Paw Javelin (which is a unipivot design like the old Naim Aro) may be worth a look. It would also help to know what spec LP12 you are planning to fit the arm to. In many cases, money is better spent on components under the top plate than on replacing the arm. David
  5. MickC is correct, but I've never been able to make Lumin work properly on Android devices. Also, it uses a lot of resources building its own index, which in my book is just what a control point should not do. I don't have - or want - any iThingies, so Bubble is my control point of choice. Kazoo works perfectly well on both Windows and Android (well, there is an odd incompatibility with my Nexus 9, but that is now an obsolescent device), but Bubble, with its 'sliding screens' layout and much greater range of user settings, is considerably more intuitive to use. I'm not sure why Linn has chosen to produce yet another control point (the fourth by my reckoning), but the confusingly named 'Linn' is now in beta for iPhones and iPads only. Linn started the design process with the iPhone version, and has accepted on its development website that the UI of the iPad version needs more work. I can't test it, however, because there is no Android or Windows version as yet. So we are in the awkward state where Linn isn't usable yet and little or no development effort will be going into Kazoo. David
  6. @DSJR With a thread title of "Alternative Tonearms", I should have thought that your post was well within scope. I too am using a Silver tonearm cable. I also agree with your general advice to get the deck fully checked out prior to (or, worst case, as part of) any upgrading. Owners of older decks who are having the Cirkus fitted in effect get a rebuild as part of the process. My deck was built from scratch, starting with a 1987 fluted Afromosia plinth the dealer had salvaged from his own original LP12, so the Basik Plus has something even older to keep it company. But the important point for me (and I'm sure that ThomasOK is right to bang on about this) is that, often, the best 'alternative arm' is the arm you already have, with the money you saved by not replacing it going on some other improvement, probably below the top plate. David
  7. I'm glad it worked for you, as it did for me. You will understand that it is sensible to be cautious about recommending undocumented 'case off' jobs on a public forum, because readers' skills and experience will vary widely. And that grub screw is not something bloke-sized fingers can easily handle. Mine stayed firmly held in my three pronged screw grabber for the whole time it was loose from the mounting. As regards the Input level, it is to allow for the matching of particular cartridges. There is, of course, an extensive theology around this subject, but my advice is to leave it at the default unless the documentation for your cartridge says differently. The Volume Offset setting is indeed, as you say, the one you use to get reasonably consistent volume settings as between the different sources. David
  8. Thanks, Thomas. The slightly ironic back story about my Basik Plus is that, when I bought my Basik TT all those years ago, the dealer had the arm as second hand stock. The original owner had traded it in to fit an Ittok to his Axis ... David
  9. For the avoidance of doubt, while all of this is correct, the response to the OP's specific question, related to cartridge matching, is that the physical reorientation of the daughter board is the necessary first step if you have an ADSM with factory settings and are using an MM cartridge. David
  10. We are all of us by now used to seeing digitally created images which are visibly superior to what was typically available with film ('analogue') technology. In other words, digital technology is not necessarily more lossy than its analogue counterpart; there are likely to be gains and losses on both sides. Our preference for one or the other is likely to change over time, because technology does not stand still. In the specific case of the DSM models, the conversion from analogue to digital is done at a bit rate which far exceeds that of an ordinary 'red book' CD (16 bit, 44.1kHz). Each additional bit in a sample doubles the number of values available within the sample, so the increase in sample size from 16 to 24 bits is very large. When this is allied to an increase in the sampling rate from 44.1kHz to 96kHz or 192kHz, the resolution of the digital stream is sufficient to encode the analogue input from a turntable in a transparent way, and from that point on the signal from the turntable can take advantage of all the streaming and signal processing capabilities available in the digital domain. Linn have always maintained (in my view correctly) that an LP contains far more usable information than a CD, but they are still prepared to offer, as their top of the range phono stage, the Urika II which converts the phono signal to digital before applying precise RIAA correction in the digital domain. In other words, conversion to digital is done not as a compromise but because, at the bit rate (resolution) it is done, it produces the best result for the listener. By the same token, it is misleading to think that the various stages of digital signal processing involve compression and decompression. They do involve upsampling and downsampling, but the purpose of those processes is to ensure that the integrity of the information content is maintained at all times. That is the fundamental reason why your MDSM sounds better than your Sony; the conversion of the phono signal to digital is actually a good thing, not a bad news compromise. If that sounds counter-intuitive, it is because we have been conditioned over time (I forbear to say 'brainwashed') into thinking that the analogue signal is somehow a 'purer' version of the original than its digital counterpart. But the analogue signal is itself a potentially lossy conversion (from sound energy to wiggly amps), and the digital signal is actually still an analogue of the original musical stream. The sooner we stop worrying whether the signal is digital or analogue at this or that point in the chain and just sit back to enjoy the music, the better off we all will be. David
  11. As the owner of an LP12 for which I decided to keep my 20 year old Basik Plus as the best means of staying within budget, I'd have to say that there is nothing "ridiculous" about using this arm if you can get your hands on one in decent condition. I am using mine with a Cirkus/Lingo 4/Kore/Trampolin setup, still with the old K5 cartridge, but with the Paratrace stylus. A new cable was also fitted as part of the build. Of course it isn't a Klimax level setup (I've heard a few of those, too), but for the money I couldn't be happier. David
  12. It requires a physical modification, albeit not a very complex one (I have done it myself). Essentially, the small daughter board that houses the phono input circuitry has to be detached and reconnected in a different orientation. By default, the board is in the MC cartridge orientation, but it can also be set for MM cartridges and as a line input. Unless you are familiar with electronics, the job is best left to the dealer, as it is fiddly (the grub screw that fixes the daughter board in place is minute and all too easily dropped), and the markings onthe PCB are not all that easy to find. David
  13. That settles that, then. Actually, it's probably right not to 'just assume', because that's what makes an ass of u and me .. David
  14. If you are buying the Ekos new, and don't have the Radikal, the latter is probably your first port of call. But (and it's a big but), the only way to make these choices sensibly is to listen first, and that is not good news in places where suitable dealers are few and far between. A decently priced second hand Ekos (bought via a dealer to make sure that it is in good condition) might be a good buy. Alternatively, if you can find a way of listening to the Tiger Paw Javelin, you might be surprised to discover how good it is at a much lower price than a new Ekos. AFAIK, Tiger Paw have not yet released the Keel compatible version of the Javelin, so that too needs to be used with a Kore. David
  15. One can always be wrong, but that is my understanding. Given that there are different levels of Spotify account, it is difficult to see how it could be otherwise. To mke sure, you can always log out of the 'wrong' account first. David