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About phino

  • Rank
    Junior Wammer

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Wigwam Info

  • Digital Source 1
    Linn Akurate DS
  • DAC
    Linn Klimax Exaktbox
  • Power Amp/s
    Linn Klimax Twin x2
  • My Speakers
    Linn Ninka
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. It's named after the specific circuit board in your Ds - so look in Konfig for the PCAS board type number then match that with the firmware filename... I believe Konfig won't allow you to apply the incorrect firmware, so should be safe.
  2. Well, it was all getting a bit off-topic, given that the op doesn't seem to have solved his problem yet. But your post has prompted me to order some chokes, so that's good, no harm trying - now wondering where I can buy a ferret
  3. I've just ordered a pack of these... ...High hopes - we'll see. I bought one for a flash-gun extension cable once, the flash put out a lot of RF which meant it didn't work too well with a wireless trigger. That one helped a bit, but obviously a completely different application!
  4. Is it the first time you've used the web version of SO? When I first used it it got into a bit of a muddle - I think the first time it gets info about your speakers from your DS and it can get them wrong (I had two left speakers and no right!!). So it was probably just a glitch and will probably work fine from now on.
  5. This sounds a bit odd. The music room socket must be an extension from the main socket (amongst others), so you'd expect it to be worse if anything. Have you tried plugging it in to the master socket. If it has one, the main BT socket in the hall will be split in half, the bottom half held in with two screws. Undo those and unplug the bottom half, that should then disconnect all of your extension wiring leaving just the master socket. Plug your hub into that and see what speed you get (from a wired connection). If you get a better speed there it would seem to point to something on one of your telephone extensions causing a problem. Then put the master plug back together, reconnecting the extension and try unplugging any other phones to see if one in particular is causing the problem. All that if assuming you were comparing speeds using wired connections, if comparing using wireless then all bets are off and maybe the new BT router is just not as good as the old Sky one. Then there are microfilters - does every phone in the house have one fitted? BT will always tell you to try a different one - I've never seen a broken one yet though
  6. I tried, with an Exaktbox-Sub and a BK 300 sub. I never did get it to work, it only ever swamped and smeared the fine details and ruined the music. The only way to stop it doing that was to turn the gain down so low that it was effectively switched off (<0.5 on a scale of 10) Finally giving up and unplugging it was a big revelation. BUT - I believe I'm a minority of 1 here. I think the BK sub was far too slow and ponderous to keep up, so maybe that was the problem.
  7. Yes, but similarly, the floor plan of a recess can also be accurately modelled - assuming the recess reaches the floor - as is the case with an inglenook. It's also questionable as to whether the floor plan is most relevant at the floor level or at the listening level. A bit more guidance from Linn would be welcome. Furthermore, I did say that I wasn't sure that the bay window counted as a recess. nb. You might find this useful (updated today in LinnDocs) ...and related: Also - something else I'd been unsure of... My windows had been too big!
  8. Argh - looking at Qobuz in Kazoo, the album covers are different - though one of them does sound quite dodgy. Big difference in volume levels - and I dunno if I'm moaning with Hazel or spending the morning with her - probably both The good ones are pretty good for 1958 though. Weirdly, I had Kind of Blue on earlier too. That's more or less as adventurous as I get with Jazz tho!
  9. I wonder how much control the record companies have - ie if Qobuz is affiliated with a particular label, is it Qobuz or the label who decide what is made available? Anyway - you can't leave it all enigmatic like that - what was the album so we can all play? I don't have a streaming sub, but I can play the odd 30 secs of each at least...
  10. That's a tricky one for sure! The guide on 'recesses' (page 37) was recently updated - and it was a bit vague - however I see it's been updated again now and it's a little bit clearer. Not sure it helps in your case though. I'm not even sure if your bay window counts as a 'recess'! Example one says: If the height of the recess is greater than 50% of the total height, you should use the maximum recess depth. Example two says: If the height of the recess is half of the room height, the depth entered should be half of the maximum recess depth. So, it still leaves a bit of a no-mans land - why suddenly go from half depth to full depth? In your case, it sounds like you should use the maximum depth anyway. You could always try moving the back pane forward (keeping the angles of the side windows the same) by the proportion of alcove height to room height. As 'Troll says though, that might alter your main length mode. I think you should probably keep the ceiling height at the height of the main part of the room though otherwise your height modes will be out.
  11. All I would say it that though the end goal is maybe the same, everything along the way seems to be polar opposites. Room measurement v modelling, speaker positioning via measurement v tune-dem, system topology etc etc. Even when it comes to turntables - direct-drive v belt-drive. I'm not sure any of the boxes to process the results of the room measurement would be compatible with Exakt systems either. Maybe just the wrong audience?
  12. Thankfully, I think he's gone! Seems a complete charlatan, I suspect his only intention from his interruptions in here was to try to shift some boxes. Just read his website: source last! Tries to blind his customers with multiple pseudo-science graphs - of which he doesn't appear to have even an elementary understanding of the underlying physics. Still, everything's a learning experience - I've learned where not to shop!
  13. The trouble with tinfoil is that it degrades pretty quickly. Last time i tried wrapping an ethernet cable* I used something like this...;ds_kid=92700031407979212&amp;ds_rl=1249416&amp;ds_rl=1241687&amp;ds_rl=1245250&amp;ds_rl=1245250&amp;ds_rl=1249481&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMImITByq3X3gIVRbDtCh05ygb0EAQYASABEgKrI_D_BwE&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds It's like sellotape on steroids. Bit of a one-way street though! * mixed results. I had two identical short (supposedly!!!) CAT6 cables, one was ok, the other not as good. I tried wrapping the not as good one... it was better afterwards, but still not as good as the ok one. The problem was more likely crosstalk in the RJ45's. That'll teach me to buy cheap cr@p from Amazon!!!
  14. Ah, but it's not the ethernet I'm worried about - it's the speaker cable that runs along with it. Does the hat have to be boat shaped? I fancy a nice Fedora What if the hat were made from acoustic panels?!
  15. Just suppose, wild I know, but just suppose that the flattest response to a sine wave signal in any given room is not the most musically satisfying result when playing actual, real music? I'm sure your customers must be really impressed with all your graphs and charts. If you cool your room (or warm it for that matter) by only 5C, you would see a difference in your plots - if you bothered to look properly at them.