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About robbie010

  • Rank
  • Birthday 19/02/1982

Personal Info

  • Location
  • Real Name

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Garrard 401
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Acos Lustre/Quintet
  • Digital Source 1
    Cambridge Audio CXC
  • Digital Source 2
    PC / iPhone
  • DAC
    Audio Note DAC Zero
  • Pre-Amp
    Audiolab 8000A
  • Power Amp/s
    Transcendent 300B SE
  • My Speakers
    LS50 & Wharfedale W4
  • Headphones
    Sennheiser HD600
  • Trade Status
    I am not in the Hi-Fi trade

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  1. Evening all, I’m going to kick off my DIY speaker build this weekend and have (kind of) decided on using a lock mitre router bit to form the 90 degree joints. I will be using glue without any screws where the screws would be visible but I will be complimenting the lock mitre joints with further glue and screws wherever the screws will not be visible, which should help to add structural stability beyond the glue. Have any DIY-ers used this method of cabinet construction before? Was it successful? Hints and tips welcome! Thanks.
  2. Up again! A long shot but I may be interested in a swap for a similar value CD/SACD player. WHYG?
  3. No worries, I have a lot of learning to do with regards to crossover design and the intricacies of component characteristics, all input is welcome! Actually, in my quizzing and questioning over on the Klipsch forum, one very kind member has offered to send me a pair of autotransformers for free! I just need to cover shipping from the US. So the L-pads are out the window. However, I do think you may be right in that the capacitors are in series to the tweeter. I have been looking at images of a modern version of the crossover produced by a gentleman called Bob Crites and it appears that way:
  4. Here is the schematic for the original T2A autotransformer used in the original crossover design (also below) and it states the specific attenuations achieved for each pin out when used with the zero (0) pin. Does this make anymore sense!?
  5. Thanks. After a little research in to this and taking some further advice, it seems that capacitors in series don’t work like that. Apparently, unlike resistors, where the resistance goes up when used in series i.e. 1 + 1 =2, capacitors do not, so 13 + 2 = something far different to 15! It’s all beyond me but here is a link that explains it somewhat!
  6. First mistake! I am reliably informed that the 2uf capacitor should be placed before the 8ohm L-pad, not after it! Any other errors!?
  7. Quick thread revival! After taking the great advice from Matt (above) and some further advice regarding the capacitors, I have sketched up a quick diagram of the crossover. Is anyone with the requisite knowledge able to pass comment on this design in comparison to the original and forewarn me of any major errors!??
  8. Paper in oil!! 😳 Wow, choosing caps is a real minefield. It seems that anyone, be it professional or DIY is now using polypropylene film caps as a replacement for the originals, so I would assume thats the way to go!
  9. I'm not certain but they were huge! Thanks for this info. I can get 2.2uF and 12uF in the supersound range, thats pretty much as close as is possible with new caps. I'll try this and see how I get on.
  10. Thanks. The Ansar caps that available fall just outside the rating of those specified i.e. where 2uF is specified there is 1.5uf or 2.2uf available and where 13uF is specified there are 12uf or 15uf. If I were to go with a 2.2uF and a 12uF, would the slightly different ratings be detrimental to the crossiver design?
  11. I'm about to set-out on a DIY speaker build and have been looking at the crossover requirements. The original schematic calls for a 2uF and a 13uF capacitor to be used. While researching what others are using to recap the original version of the crossover, its seems that 200VDC Sonicap film capacitors are the go to option. However, these are an american brand and mighty expensive! costing £100+ for 2 of each capacitor. Can anyone recommend a good quality, cheaper alternative that is available locally i.e. in the UK? What would you use? Thanks.
  12. Thank you very much for this concise and informative reply! When using an Lpad in place of resistors, how do I go about setting the correct resistance? Would I employ a multimeter and test the output somehow or would it be done by ear? Sorry for what may seem a very basic question, although I am willing and capable in practical terms, I am in no way technical!
  13. Evening all, First up, apologies for the longwinded post! As per the title, I am about to set out on a DIY speaker build, a pair of Klipsch La Scala. I have been looking in to the various crossover options and have initially decided on the simplest route, which is called a Type A network. This is the schematic: And here is an image of a modern version: As you will see, the original schematic calls for the use of an autotransformer to attenuate the output to the mid-driver & tweeter. I am finding it very difficult to buy these locally and a pair from the US will set me back £130 + import duty! However, I have been told that the same effect can be achieved with resistors or Lpads and provided with the link below, which is some kind of attenuation calculator: In using the calculator it requests 3 factors, the driver impedence, your desired attenuation and power per channel. The first two I get, but what is the power per channel actually asking for?? Is it asking for the maximum wattage of the amplifier to be used or the maximum wattage (power handling) of the driver???? Secondly, there is a 2.5 Mh inductor of some kind leading to the positive terminal of the woofer, however, the symbol in the schematic doesn’t look right to me, it appears to be for an iron core inductor but the lines look to be on the wrong side of the core. Can anyone comment on why this is and advise on the specific rating required, or better yet, provide a link to a specific item? Thanks in advance!
  14. Weekend bump! Anyone wanting to try out that vintage Wharfedale sound won’t go wrong with these.
  15. Lack of use and space, as well as an impending DIY speaker project means that I am now resolved to selling these lovely speakers. To a fellow wammer I am asking only £300, with collection from Oldham, Greater Manchester. This price represent a substantial loss to me, given the investment in replacement drivers and crossover parts, as well as my time to bring them back to life. I bought these last year and fully refurbished them, they look and sound lovely, if I am being very picky the cloth cover has sagged slightly over the drivers, but I’m sure this is an easy fix with a bit of dry heat to shrink the material. If you would like any further details of the refurbishment I carried out, please send me a PM. Thanks.