alanchamberlain

thorens TD 145 - what's it worth?

12 posts in this topic

I've been asked by a friend of mine to sell a Thorens TD 145 MK11 but am not sure what it might be worth. Cosmetically it's pretty good and the lid is fine with just a few scratches. The arm looks in great condition and has the detachable arm tube and not the detachable headshell. Unfortunately there's a fault somewhere as the platter will not spin round - the belt's not brilliant but it's OK and can't be the problem as the pulley doesn't go round either. It's quite a nice deck (about the same weight as a Linn) and I would be tempted to keep it myself but I don't think there's anyone to repair it near Eastbourne. So basically two questions: what could it be worth roughly in its present state and does anyone know anyone who could repair it? Sending it is not out of the question but I'd prefer not too. I've got some photos if anyone wants to have a look - send me a PM with email address.

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If the motor is dead, and I suspect it is, then very little! You would have to search for a new s/h one or repalce it with a dc motor..ouch..very expensive.

Sorry I cant be of more help to you.

S

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Putting anything on ebay seems to determine what its worth!

sent from a different Galaxy

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Could always have a 'chat' with Dominic at Northwest Analogue. He is very helpful and may even be able to tell you what it is worth.

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If you Google this you'll get a good idea of value. I think this was the auto shut-off version of the TD160 deck , which wasn't a particularly brilliant successor to the excellent TD150 of the sixties. With a duff motor it's a parts job only, as it really doesn't justify spending good money or time on it. Not sure about the arm, as I think the TP16 which usually came with it had a detatchable headshell. All i.m.o., of course, as it's a long time since I last had a Thorens.

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If you Google this you'll get a good idea of value. I think this was the auto shut-off version of the TD160 deck , which wasn't a particularly brilliant successor to the excellent TD150 of the sixties. With a duff motor it's a parts job only, as it really doesn't justify spending good money or time on it. Not sure about the arm, as I think the TP16 which usually came with it had a detatchable headshell. All i.m.o., of course, as it's a long time since I last had a Thorens.

I've got a TD160 and it is particularly brilliant. Can't speak for the 145 tho.

If you want to tinker about, i don't think you could far wrong. There's loads you can do to thorens decks and you hear every change. No audio snake oil here - change the base plate; hear the difference. Balance the springs; hear the difference, and so on. Hours of fun.

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Have a read of this, maybe the switch needs pushing further as some found out :

My first TD-145 I thought the motor was dead, too. Then I realized the on/off switch works differently from the TD-160...you have to push it past the "on" point, to the point where there is some spring resistance. Maybe you will be lucky like me, and be a doofus too...a doofus with a working table.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=121386

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I've got a TD160 and it is particularly brilliant. Can't speak for the 145 tho.

If you want to tinker about, i don't think you could far wrong. There's loads you can do to thorens decks and you hear every change. No audio snake oil here - change the base plate; hear the difference. Balance the springs; hear the difference, and so on. Hours of fun.

If it is anything like a TD160 then it is a fine deck potentially. As you say, the TD160 was a very successful TT in the 1970s, I had two TD150s and my modified 160 is far better than they were. I have a lovely TD125 also and I wouldn't say that the gap in performance is at all large. So if the motor is working it is well worth keeping.

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It is worth £150 to someone who wants it.

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Have a read of this, maybe the switch needs pushing further as some found out :

My first TD-145 I thought the motor was dead, too. Then I realized the on/off switch works differently from the TD-160...you have to push it past the "on" point, to the point where there is some spring resistance. Maybe you will be lucky like me, and be a doofus too...a doofus with a working table.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=121386

Many thanks for the tip about the switch - it's all working fine. I like the word "doofus" although I must confess I've never heard it before. It almost certainly comes from the German "doof" (the double "o" pronounced like "Oh" as in "Oh dear") meaning silly or thick and certainly seems appropriate in this case!

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