martinoslice

yamaha ns1000m rewire

37 posts in this topic

Hiya, yes, if I was thinking of rewiring them, i think I'd use silver of the same gauge too. I've always been pleased with silver. Audio synthesis sell Teflon coated silver wire of 2 different gauges. The only downside with the thicker silver wire e.g. 1mm dia. is that it keeps coming unsoldered- I know, as I tried using Ecosse large dia ocfc copper solid core in my Spendor Sp1's and it often came unsoldered. Better to use multiple lengths of finer gauge (unless there's some way of securing the cable to stop it waving about inside when a speaker is moved, I guess that might work).

Would love to try something like carbon if it were possible, the link was interesting but im still undecided, im now tempted to use solid silver maybe the same gauge as the original yamaha cable.....
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FWIW I have also rewired my speakers with 0.5mm solid silver wire. I used single runs for all three drivers and have no end of bass on hand. I also used the solid silver wire to hard wire the crossover components when I rebuilt the crossovers. Detail is through the roof!:^

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Not familiar I'm afraid, but there are countless of people selling silver wire in plastic tubing. Oversize tubing is meant to be good in one sense as it's a good dialectric- in tight sheathing, the electrical signal is reflected between the wire and the sheathing pixels of times per second, made worse by certain types of material used for the sheathing. This causes smearing of the sound. The only silver cable I have ever used for wiring is Audio Synthesis, which is tightly sheathed in Teflon coating- again, quite commonly used, and doesn't melt when heat is applied. Last price I paid for it though was £6 per single wire metre, but I know and trust David Heaton and his fussiness for only buying good quality, well-manufactured wire. So that would cost 24.00 per metre and would have to be braided by yourself. I guess it's your call really. The eBay stuff is cheaper but couldn't say if it's manufactured to such tight tolerances when drawn out to make the wire. David also sells 1mm wire, obviously more expensive. The wire he sells is what he wires his superb products with. If I was in your shoes, I'd pay the extra for his wire. Might not be a difference in results, then again their might, but I'd have the peace of mind of knowing I'd used the best possible.

Spyed this on ebay, Item num, 270653985149. Anyone familar.
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again not familiar but this website is worth checking out for 99.99% solid silver wire at VERY reasonable prices. You can get it unsheathed or silk covered in various lengths and thickness's:

http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/silk_covered_silver.html

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Hi Marty, as I said before, I have rewired my speakers with 0.5mm throughout and they sound superb so I dont think you need the 0.9mm personally. Silk is fine:^

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Personally, as Bass needs higher currents, I would use 2 or even 3 strands of the 0.9mm for the Bass unit, and plait/platt them to reduce interference. If the cable is too thin, you'll lose some of the dynamics. However, I would go by whatever diameter cable Yamaha used originally to the bass, as a good guide. Ditto for the other drive units. If using 2 strands together, again, twist them together and allow the extra length as they will turn out shorter when twisted.

So silk covered would be fine, also i wonder which size would be better 0.5mm or 0.9mm.

Cheers Marty.

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Ok cheers guys, sounds good, ive one more question though, ill proberly attempt a matching pair of 3m speaker cables, how many stands would you reccommend for this, 4 - 6 runs of 0.9mm?

Cheers Marty.

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Hi Marty. My own experimentation with speaker cable leads me to believe that the larger the cores, the better the treble is reproduced, so definitely use 0.9mm rather than the 0.5mm. On the bass front, thick cables are needed to reproduce bass efficiently and the louder the system is played, the more current the cable has to handle. I would have thought that 6 strands per channel i.e. 3 strands to positive, 3 to negative, would be fine. My Audio Synthesis silver speaker cable had 2 x 1mm strands to the positive, 2 to the negative. It;s probably also a good idea to put a final outer sheath over them, once you've constructed them. That black woven stuff is often used. Something I read recently too, regarding the stripping of wires to bare the end if it's coated cable that you're buying rather than plain wire pushed in oversize tube, if at all possible,melt the coating off with a soldering iron rather than using wire strippers, so that the wire isn't physically distorted. If you're going to use bare wire connections rather than bananas or spades, the best solution is to use copper or silver tubes that slip over the wires and are then crimped. This requires a special tool though and I'm not sure how costly they are, If its not an option, then bare wires it has to be. Good luck with your project and I hope you're pleased with the results!

What do the other wammers here think?

Ok cheers guys, sounds good, ive one more question though, ill proberly attempt a matching pair of 3m speaker cables, how many stands would you reccommend for this, 4 - 6 runs of 0.9mm?

Cheers Marty.

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Hi Marty. My own experimentation with speaker cable leads me to believe that the larger the cores, the better the treble is reproduced, so definitely use 0.9mm rather than the 0.5mm. On the bass front, thick cables are needed to reproduce bass efficiently and the louder the system is played, the more current the cable has to handle. I would have thought that 6 strands per channel i.e. 3 strands to positive, 3 to negative, would be fine. My Audio Synthesis silver speaker cable had 2 x 1mm strands to the positive, 2 to the negative. It;s probably also a good idea to put a final outer sheath over them, once you've constructed them. That black woven stuff is often used. Something I read recently too, regarding the stripping of wires to bare the end if it's coated cable that you're buying rather than plain wire pushed in oversize tube, if at all possible,melt the coating off with a soldering iron rather than using wire strippers, so that the wire isn't physically distorted. If you're going to use bare wire connections rather than bananas or spades, the best solution is to use copper or silver tubes that slip over the wires and are then crimped. This requires a special tool though and I'm not sure how costly they are, If its not an option, then bare wires it has to be. Good luck with your project and I hope you're pleased with the results!

What do the other wammers here think?

As mentioned in my earlier post, I have rewired my 3 way standmounts with single strands of 0.5mm cable and love the results. the overall tonal balance of the speaker did not change but the detail getting through certainly did! I have as much bass as i could ever need (10" driver) so Im not sure that you need 2 or 3 strands for the bass drivers - admittedly I havent done as much research as Gizza seems to have but that has been my experience. it certainly helped to keep the cost down:^

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I would imagine you'd have to open the speaker up to measure it or at least have a look a the ends of the wire to get an idea. Never done it myself, so not sure how difficult it is to get into it.

I cant seem to find the diameter of the stock cable.
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While i think of it, when you come to disconnect the old cables, make a real good note of what connection goes to where. I read somewhere that the phase of one of the speakers is reversed. I don't know if this is true, but if you make accurate notes, you shouldn't wire them back up incorrectly.

On the subject of the Yammies, I picked up a second, upgraded pair of EAR 509mk valve monoblocs today to power some recently purchased Gradient subs. I tell you what, the Yammies just get better and better as your other equipment improves. They're certainly not a weak link in the chain and they are sounding superb. I'd hate to think how much you'd have to pay for a modern day speaker that sounds as good. The downside of the Yams is that if the rest of the kit isn't up to it and especially if it's bright or harsh, that's exactly what you'll hear - very transparent.

I cant seem to find the diameter of the stock cable.
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While i think of it, when you come to disconnect the old cables, make a real good note of what connection goes to where. I read somewhere that the phase of one of the speakers is reversed. I don't know if this is true, but if you make accurate notes, you shouldn't wire them back up incorrectly.

On the subject of the Yammies, I picked up a second, upgraded pair of EAR 509mk valve monoblocs today to power some recently purchased Gradient subs. I tell you what, the Yammies just get better and better as your other equipment improves. They're certainly not a weak link in the chain and they are sounding superb. I'd hate to think how much you'd have to pay for a modern day speaker that sounds as good. The downside of the Yams is that if the rest of the kit isn't up to it and especially if it's bright or harsh, that's exactly what you'll hear - very transparent.

as Gizza says, always wise to map out what you are doing as you do it - digital photos are a very easy way to create reference points of your work before and after.

as for the phases being different... the mid driver on my speakers is opposite to the treb and bass so certainly noteworthy!:^ - rep added

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