Shakey_Studioincar

My Yamaha NS1000M refurb..

128 posts in this topic

That install looks amazing! Yes the vacuum press does 3d objects best.

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Super Wammer

So then...

Saturday I went on a routing mission.. The mess was mayhem.

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Filled this big old girl with dust and little nasties..

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The end result was 2/3 of the rings I need to make were complete and allowed me to mock up a scale cabinet.

I completely underestimated how long this would take me to do, this was 8hrs work.

Ignore the fact its not completely straight, it's near on impossible to manage as it is, something I think I'll need to make a jig for when it comes to bonding them.

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Quite happy with the lack of burns and generally the way they turned out. Really happy.

The reason only 2/3 were done is because I had completely forgotten that the midrange being sealed from the rest of the drivers needs its own ring format in order to keep it as part of the design and not just add a square box behind it from the rear of the baffle, I was in the mood to cut, not the mood to math so I gave it a miss and it's something to go back to.

The next router session, this Saturday should see both of the cabinets finished in terms of cutting and the midrange separate enclosure will be a part of the design.

Rear profile, really glad i changed to this, it'll make the terminals tricky but its all good fun.

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And some innards -

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General shot of all routed rings and left over insides...

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That was the end of Saturday, I'll start these again this Saturday. I've got to work out the measurements for the enclosure of the midrange now and get that ring drawn up ready to be cut..

In other news....

Today my passives turned up, designed for these drivers and also a level of attenuation for the midrange and tweeters should allow for some scope for tuning if the enclosures prove to be useless (I hope not).. I shouldn't have to use that feature really but it's there.

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With dust cover on -

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These a lovely things..

Just makes me even more eager to get the building done so I can listen to them!!

Thanks, As always any advice is encouraged.

Shakey.

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Super Wammer

Great work !!

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Where did you get your passive crossovers made? Never seen any boxed like that before. Very nice. How did you go about designing them without getting some measurements in the finished boxes?

Stefan

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Great work !!

x2 Amazing work and keep the piccies coming.:notworthy:

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You bringing any of this gear to the show? I'd like to see both projects. Oh and it would be nice to have a car with one of your builds in it as well.

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You bringing any of this gear to the show? I'd like to see both projects. Oh and it would be nice to have a car with one of your builds in it as well.

Ohhh that's interesting.. 10 years from now Scalfold turns into a ICE show full of neon lights and 12" subs in carpeted boxes 😆

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Super Wammer

Lets not stereotype. :P

When's Scalford? As these are a long way off being what I would consider finished.

Thanks for the kind remarks from my last post guys, should have some more this coming week as I'm going to do some work in the evenings and have figured out my midrange enclosure plan I think!

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Super Wammer

The ones I'm using are Hybrid Audio Clarus 6.5 the Carbon ones I put a picture up of are Hybrid Audio Legatia 6se - Carbon.

Drop me a pm if you're after some

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Assuming your midbass drivers are the C6 model, then according to the T/S parameters and your 16ltr? box, you will need a port of around 2.5" internal by 10.5" long. You could go for a 2" by 6" long port but you will get some chuffing at higher volume. I wouldn't waste my time with those drivers in a sealed box unless you're going to couple them with a subwoofer.

If the crossovers are stock ones designed for car use (I bet they are) then they will not allow for baffle step and you will have bugger all bass.

Edit: Apart from that they look very nice.

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Super Wammer

Lovely work so far.

What I would do is to go for an active crossover like the DCX2496, which includes a parametric equaliser and time alignment facility as well as stereo three way frequency splitting. A very versatile device.

All that work deserves better than passive crossover, I think, especially if the passive crossover may have been designed for in-car use rather than HiFi.

S.

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Super Wammer
Assuming your midbass drivers are the C6 model, then according to the T/S parameters, you will need a port of around 2.5" internal by 10.5" long, if you want any bass. You could go for a 2" by 6" long port but you will get some chuffing at higher volume. I wouldn't waste my time with those drivers in a sealed box.

If the crossovers are stock ones designed for car use (I bet they are) then they will not allow for baffle step and you will have bugger all bass.

Thanks for your input.

My original measurements (I think they're on the last page) say to me that it is better off as a ported enclosure but the enclosure itself would be twice the size, this isn't really acceptable for what I want to build. Originally I actually wanted to build them ported but the physical size completely put me off. Just under 1cuft iirc.

The cabinets while obviously still in a design phase I'm thinking of making a remove able front baffle so I can make multiple ones with multiple drivers over time to figure out the best sounding set.. Maybe this is the way I will fix on now and a driver change could be on the cards for a more suited 6.5" driver in a sealed enclosure.

These are speakers I have "sat around", no baffles are cut yet etc.

I have no clue what baffle step is, if you'd like to clear up what you think could be missing? Your bet on the crossovers being an in car crossover is pretty safe, I've mentioned it a few times.

Its great to have feedback like yours, please keep it coming it's very helpful and highly appreciated.

I've had a lot of advice without this forum that contradicts what you've said here, although I've questioned it myself a number of times. Now is the best time for factual advice before I end up getting something wrong when I can quite easily sort it while designing.

Lovely work so far.

What I would do is to go for an active crossover like the DCX2496, which includes a parametric equaliser and time alignment facility as well as stereo three way frequency splitting. A very versatile device.

All that work deserves better than passive crossover, I think, especially if the passive crossover may have been designed for in-car use rather than HiFi.

S.

Thanks Serge,

these me crossovers I bought as they were designed for the speakers in question although it seems their use in an enclosure may be flawed, I will try them regardless as they weren't cheap. I've been trying my best to stay away from making the speakers active to save on the hassle of extra boxes and cost.. If it comes to it I will design and have a custom set made.

That said, they would be lovely active wouldn't they.

Maybe be you guys could help me with that also, but please, not to many strange words in one go. Baffle step will keep me busy now for a few days haha!

On another note, at the Hifi show today I had a great chat with a guys about finishing down ply end, so that should be alright now!

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Super Wammer

Definitely mount the crossovers outside of the cabinets, in case you go active.

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