awkwardbydesign

Wammer
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About awkwardbydesign

Personal Info

  • Location
    Plymouth

Wigwam Info

  • Turn Table
    Oracle
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
    Decca
  • Digital Source 1
    Consonance
  • Digital Source 2
    Duet
  • Pre-Amp
    Sowter
  • Power Amp/s
    Parasound A21
  • My Speakers
    Troels
  1. The diyAudio forum is your friend! Although I had to read 3800 posts before even starting my type 26 DHT pre! I am basically a novice in this type of build (after 45 years of speaker and amp building!), and found a great deal of help there.
  2. You will probably have to reverse the order! Placing components closer together can often cause the hum. But there is a lot of info out there about transformer orientation, for example.
  3. Congratulations. I know how satisfying it can be turning a plan and a handful of components into a working amp. Be careful, it can get addictive! The challenge now will be to get all the little details right so it doesn't hum! Oh, and make it smaller.
  4. I see you use screw terminal blocks. I do myself, but never quite trust their quality of contact. So I cut the wires long enough to fit under both screws (if the wires aren't too thick) so that there is good wire to wire contact. Probably unnecessary, but the brass in some of those blocks is a bit suspect.
  5. Fair enough. But I use a switch on my wall mounted distribution board to switch the whole system on and off. Because my wife can't keep up with all the changes! So I need to know if the equipment is on, even when it's off.
  6. Is there a particular reason you mounted the mains switch sideways? I always find that vertical orientation makes it easier to remember which way is on/off. (I use down for on) Maybe it's just my poor memory!
  7. Hovlands out and 220nF K75-10s in. Better, the Hovlands were a bit harsh, so now it's all K75-10s with a Teflon topping!
  8. I'll be interested in the tweeter, as I may need a pair!
  9. All drilled and fitted, including valve mounting plates. Now I have to take it all apart and polish the top! I need another 12 RCA sockets, and my favoured Valab rhodium plated jobbies are £16 for four, so over £50 for the 12! But he is selling what looks like the same sockets (CMC?) with copper plating for £5.50 for 4! So I am going to try those.
  10. SALE

    I used to have the HCA-1205A five channel version, and that was pretty good. I now have the Halo A21, which is even better. John Curl designed amps are very good, and the company has been helpful too. Recommended. Plus you can always ask John questions on diyAudio.
  11. Gripple. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/debate/article-2169927/How-plain-speaking-Yorkshireman-built-world-class-company-common-sense.html
  12. Selector switch made, out of left-over wafers and Delrin. It's hard to get the spring loaded ball bearing to make a positive stop action, but I'll see how it performs.
  13. That's right, these days you have to pay to be a proper member.
  14. It's not the cutting tip that's the problem, but the narrow shaft binding in the hole and snapping. I was drilling with a cordless and not the pillar drill, so had less control.
  15. A little more progress. The top plate is drilled,just () the polishing to do. A handy tip; don't break a 2.5mm drill bit in 6mm marine grade alloy! I tried punching it out, drilling it out, swearing it out, in the end I used a masonry nail to punch a hole next to it and then forced it out. Of course a 4mm hole became a 6mm hole! Hooray for washers. I had a pair of chromed D handles, so they went on. Heatsinks, chokes, caps, 8 way umbilical socket and fuse holders fitted, plus aly foil lining. Parts are arriving in dribs and drabs, but the selector switch, bushes for the control shafts, and valve mounting discs need making now.