JUST IN - A Quote From This Year's Main Sponsor Elite Audio

'Quite simply the best show we have ever had the pleasure to exhibit! Huge amounts of enthusiasm from so many Wammers who clearly share our passion for music. Can't wait for next year..........'

Mark Cargill - CEO Elite Audio


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About awkwardbydesign

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  • Turn Table
  • Tone Arm & Cartridge
  • Digital Source 1
  • Digital Source 2
  • Pre-Amp
  • Power Amp/s
    Parasound A21
  • My Speakers
  1. I still have a pair of his electrostatic panels, which I plan to combine with 10" SEAS bass units at some point. AFAIK, he never made full range 'statics, but used the HF units with a 12" cone bass. I heard a pair at his shop once, and there was a mismatch in speed between the drivers. He didn't like me mentioning it! I think they have great potential, being very clean, but have a very low impedance at high frequencies, need space behind them and careful matching with a bass driver (or mid driver if used as a tweeter). I will be interested in your views when you have heard them.
  2. I was thinking of Arvo Part, but went with this instead.
  3. SALE

    It's a pity this wasn't available a few months ago, I had to buy a new one! A great amp, and the company is great to deal with if needed.
  4. A bit more done. At least I seem to be almost over the chest infection now, nearly 8 weeks I think! Anyway,the filament supply is done, and R1 is now a 5R1 Mills MRA 12. It drops exactly 1volt, as recommended by Rod, and gives 200mA at 3.4V. I have added a 15R 10W Jantzen MOX resistor in the raw DC line, which drops 3V to the regulator, in case the #26 PSU is too high. It's fixed with screw terminals so I can easily change or remove it. I changed the Teflon on the gyrator to the Audyn, but didn't want to cut the leads yet, so they are rather long. I will get advice on that., The pair of Teflons for the output are soldered together and cable-tied to the top-plate, just need wiring in. I bought a couple of these tiny cheap digital 1 amp ammeters, and I am considering fitting them just off the valve pins. They would be visible through the gap around the valve base, but only if you look straight down, and take their power (about 4mA) from the raw filament supply. The sensor resistor is 0.050 ohms. Again I will seek advice as to whether they might impact performance. But they are kinda cute! BTW, those pale cream cable ties are from Asda, garden ties, £1 per pack.
  5. Still with 2 x 100nF FT-2 Teflons, but I have K40Y-9 PIO, K75-10 PIO/Lavsan, Hovland Musicap, so I can play with them.
  6. Following some advice from Andy and Béla, I changed R1 to 4R9 (3R9 + 1R0, I didn't have a 4R7) and got down to 2.6V and 160mA. Then adjusted up to 3.4V and 200mA. So using a 4R7 resistor is a good idea. But my head hasn't recovered from my recent illness, so I managed to connect the PSU and both DVMs in various incorrect ways without destroying anything! But it works now. And I've ordered a couple of 0.1uF Audyn True Copper Max caps to try on the gyrator board instead of the FT-2 Teflon. Reading how the Teflons can take up to 600 hours to settle, I thought an alternative would be good. I might not live that long!
  7. My grandson, who is studying music at college, says he can tell when it is used. I don't listen to much music that would use it, apart from the aformentioned Tuareg music. And that's so over the top you couldn't exactly miss it!
  8. Just a bit.
  9. Tuareg music uses it as a creative tool, rather than correcting bad singing.
  10. Now there's a real man!
  11. I got to the point of testing the Coleman regs today. So after reconnecting the ground lead at the right place I managed to get some results. I used my bench power supply to feed the regs, varying the voltage from 13V to 20V, and they handled it OK. But I can't adjust the current below 200mA. Which is fine, the output voltage goes up and down with the input voltage, from 3.35V up to over 4V, while the current stays at 200mV I can get the current to adjust up, but not down. And the valves glow nicely! I wonder if changing R1 from 3R9 to 4R7 would make a difference, but as long as I can get 200mV, I probably won't bother. But I have made provision for a dropper resistor in the raw DC line, in case the voltage is too high from the type 26 PSU. Now I will finish the HT wiring, and the signal wiring.
  12. Have you explained auto-tune yet?
  13. Benchmark themselves have an RCA to XLR cable. https://benchmarkmedia.com/collections/cables
  14. Quite a lot of effort goes into avoiding magnetic materials in some quarters. Resistor manufacturers in particular often make a point of it. Some of us even try to avoid steel screws if possible, although that is a bit more extreme. And products like Dynamat can be applied to casework for damping.
  15. If your case is all wood, you may need to add screening, depending on your set up, especially if there are large transformers nearby.